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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About to install a rear camera mainly just to help align up my hunting boat when I’m doing it alone. Does anyone have a sample of their head unit with the one in the spare tire location and your hitch ball is visible? My draw bar sticks out past my spare tire as I bought a longer one.

My other location is flush mount in the stock rear bumper between the hitch and spare tire.

Thanks



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I believe the norm here is the bumper assuming its plastic. I think on Jeeps its a little harder to do with the spare tire up high. Alot of kits using the license plate bracket but if its on the bottom left its at a bad angle.
 

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I believe the norm here is the bumper assuming its plastic. I think on Jeeps its a little harder to do with the spare tire up high. Alot of kits using the license plate bracket but if its on the bottom left its at a bad angle.
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I mounted mine on the top of the spare tire carrier and its view is out the center of the spare tire. I don't know why you would need to see the ball; it should be sufficient to see the end of the boat as being the most sensitive indicator of which way it's traveling and what you need to do to bring it back under control. With a low mount, I would think it would be harder to see which way the boat is going.
On mine, the wiring goes through the loom between the rear gate and the body, then runs up the right side of the vehicle to the head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I mounted mine on the top of the spare tire carrier and its view is out the center of the spare tire. I don't know why you would need to see the ball; it should be sufficient to see the end of the boat as being the most sensitive indicator of which way it's traveling and what you need to do to bring it back under control. With a low mount, I would think it would be harder to see which way the boat is going.
On mine, the wiring goes through the loom between the rear gate and the body, then runs up the right side of the vehicle to the head unit.


I hook the duck boat early mornings alone. Don’t care about seeing anything after it’s
Hooked up. It’s more to help align me up at 3 am to head out to kill some ducks. Had one on a 2005 Silverado on the license plate and it worked great, but those license plates are direct center unlike the wranglers.


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I mounted mine in the rear bumper, and I can see the hitch ball just fine. It is a little
offset, but I can get used to it that way. I will try to get you a photo later.
 

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Does anyone have a sample of their head unit with the one in the spare tire location and your hitch ball is visible? My draw bar sticks out past my spare tire as I bought a longer one.

I am not sure if this is what you mean, but I have a Kenwood rear camera that offers built-in split screen. Of that, one split screen option allows you to look straight back (at your boat) while also looking straight down (at your hitch).

Here is the example pic that Kenwood offers. Unfortunately, in the top half, they chose to use a vehicle with a silver painted bumper and without a hitch, which makes it a lot less obvious to what you are looking at.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I realize your bumper is different, but here is where I put my camera. The view is straight on but perhaps a bit low for a trailer ball?? It should still work pretty good.
I got the idea after researching cameras on YouTube.

Thanks! I tested with my iphone last night sitting on the lip of the receiver and my hitch in, and i cant see the actual ball but can see the top lip of the receiver tube, which should work just fine. Thanks everyone for the input. Ill put it in the bumper like yours. I have everyone torn apart as of last night, camera arrives today and headunit should arrive Wed. I was just curious of anyone with the camera in the spare tire location if they could see their hitch, but im guessing no as my tests with my phone pretty much had to be looking down out of the spare tire and not a 45 like the camera mounts do.
 
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I use mine for trailer hook up only. I have since taken the bend out of the piece it is mounted to, so it sits right on the lip of the receiver tube. That "bracket" is just zip tied to the tube. It has been on there right at 2 years.
The only issue was with the bend I kept bumping it with my leg when getting stuff out of the back. Moving it down also moved it in a bit and i no longer bump it. Works like a charm.
Oh, the reason I didn't want to put it in the bumper was I plan to change bumpers eventually, or convert this one for water storage.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good Idea about not putting hole in bumper. Still have stock bumpers, but may upgrade later. Looks like I have the same TTP Amazon camera you and so I may try to zip tie trick first. Bumpers will be later.
 

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That is the same exact camera I have front and rear. But I drilled mine into the rear bumper and the front skid plate right where it meets the front bumper. No problems at all going on a year and a half.


I use mine for trailer hook up only. I have since taken the bend out of the piece it is mounted to, so it sits right on the lip of the receiver tube. That "bracket" is just zip tied to the tube. It has been on there right at 2 years.
The only issue was with the bend I kept bumping it with my leg when getting stuff out of the back. Moving it down also moved it in a bit and i no longer bump it. Works like a charm.
Oh, the reason I didn't want to put it in the bumper was I plan to change bumpers eventually, or convert this one for water storage.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the replies. Got mine installed yesterday. I wired power to the camera off of the rear 12 V receptacle next to the factory sub. I also moved the fuse number M7 over one slot to make it switched with the key ignition instead of always on. The PAC interface has the reverse trigger so no need to tap into reverse lights. I will leave the camera on top of the receiver for now it may go to the spare tire area later but it all depends if I get new wheels.






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I wired power to the camera off of the rear 12 V receptacle next to the factory sub. I also moved the fuse number M7 over one slot to make it switched with the key ignition instead of always on. The PAC interface has the reverse trigger so no need to tap into reverse lights.
After reading this I noticed the 12V power in the same location. Can you elaborate more on what you mean by moving the fuse number M7 to change it from always on to on with ignition?

My planned (as of now) equipment is going to be:
Kenwood DMX 9706S via the Maestro ADS MRR/CH1
Brandmotion 9002-8818 camera
SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner
 

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After reading this I noticed the 12V power in the same location. Can you elaborate more on what you mean by moving the fuse number M7 to change it from always on to on with ignition?

My planned (as of now) equipment is going to be:
Kenwood DMX 9706S via the Maestro ADS MRR/CH1
Brandmotion 9002-8818 camera
SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner
Since you have to run a video line up to the dash, why not tap into the cigarette lighter power? The camera from TopTierPro on Amazon has a positive lead imbedded in the video wire. Then all you have to do is find a ground by your camera.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018800TR2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

I also put one up front in the skid plate. Once you have one camera adding others becomes easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wanted to be able to view the camera even not in revere so I went with dedicated key power.

In your fuse box under hood Fuse M7 is set for always on ACC12V, pull it out move it over one spade width, this changes it to only on with keyed ignition.


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Since you have to run a video line up to the dash, why not tap into the cigarette lighter power? The camera from TopTierPro on Amazon has a positive lead imbedded in the video wire. Then all you have to do is find a ground by your camera.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018800TR2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

I also put one up front in the skid plate. Once you have one camera adding others becomes easier.

Did you have to get the dealer to flash the computer for the back up cam?
 

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Did you have to get the dealer to flash the computer for the back up cam?
No, I installed this...………….
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016D9N3F0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had it 2 years now and the only problem I have found is that I cannot update my maps on my Nav system. I think because it goes in between the radio and the Canbus system it interferes with the USB drive reading (although my phone works through the USB port).
 

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No, I installed this...………….
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016D9N3F0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had it 2 years now and the only problem I have found is that I cannot update my maps on my Nav system. I think because it goes in between the radio and the Canbus system it interferes with the USB drive reading (although my phone works through the USB port).
Not sure if it is the same with that unit, but the Maestro I have been looking at is programmed before installation via the USB port and your computer. I was wondering if I could leave a USB connected and reprogram any changes after installation without having to tear apart the dash again. It seems someone else had the same idea and posted on the Maestro forums asking if that was possible. The answer was yes, but you have to disconnect the battery first because the USB is disabled while the unit is getting power.
 
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