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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently acquired a 97' TJ been in the family for years and I've always wanted a jeep so it was nice to receive this! Driving it yesterday to get it smogged as it has been non-opt for quite some time, I experienced my first case of death wobble, stock axles and steering stabilizer don't like the big 35inch mickeys. This morning I was driving it to get aligned and get the rest of the steering linkage looked at and checked before I put the new stabilizer on and at about 40 miles an hour the rear tires locked up and I came to a screeching halt, thankfully myself or anyone else was hurt. Confused and stuck in the middle of the road I quickly tried to put it back in first and I couldn't move. Tried reverse and couldn't move. Clutch would engage like normal and rev up, but just wouldn't move. I was on incline and in neutral the jeep wouldn't even roll backwards. Got it on our flatbed and took it home, thankfully it was at 5AM so there was no one around that could of been hurt or stuck behind me in traffic. Forgot to add that got to move in the trailer by putting in 4-lo. But kept hearing in a grinding noise and noticed some oil around the rear diff cover. Got home and and took the rear diff cover off, and had no oil and what appears to be what blown apart pinion and ring. The weird thing was all the bolts on the case were able to be taken off by hand and not with a ratchet? Anyways I wanted to put a limited slip in anyway just never expected it to happen like this. I was curious to explore all the intelligent minds that seem to be on here if anyone any reccomendations for redoing the diff, I'm not sure if they sell a bolt on diff or if have to buy a kit and re-do it myself? Thanks in advance and sorry for not doing my profile yet! New here!!!
 

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What rear axle it is?

Chances are you are looking at ~$1500 minimum to have it fixed. If it is a d35, many guys will just buy a used axle assembly in the same gear ratio (few hundred $), and bolt it in. If it is a d44, they are hard to find used, so the best option is to get it fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fortunately it's still the stock axle, the ones I was looking at were only around 500 to re-do it my self, but I wasn't sure if they offered a bolt on one?
What rear axle it is?

Chances are you are looking at ~$1500 minimum to have it fixed. If it is a d35, many guys will just buy a used axle assembly in the same gear ratio (few hundred $), and bolt it in. If it is a d44, they are hard to find used, so the best option is to get it fixed.
 

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Fortunately it's still the stock axle, the ones I was looking at were only around 500 to re-do it my self, but I wasn't sure if they offered a bolt on one?
While it is likely a d35, the d44 was a option. Find out which you have.

Left: D44 | Right: D35
 

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It's a 35!
Ok. So while you can get the parts for about $500, just know that setting up the Ring and Pinion requires special tools and knowledge to get the mesh and preload set. If those are not set within specific tolerances, the gear set will not last long. For that reason, it it best to have it professionally installed and setup. Labor is usually $300-$500.

Your other option is buy a used d35 axle assembly (as I mentioned above) in the same gear ratio as what you have now. Usually you can find a d35 for a couple of hundred $. This will likely be your cheapest option.
 

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As you have found out, 35's on a D35 isn't a good combo. So, in order to make the 35 last, you need a Super 35 kit which will include 30 spline alloy axles and a locker, either auto or air. Then of course you will need a R&P, bearings, and someone to set it up.

In all likelihood, you are running a stock gear ratio. You really need to re-gear, which means doing the front as well, to run that size tire. What trans and engine do you have?

Generally: auto trans you need 5.13's; manual 4.88 or 5.13. Ideally for 35's and the auto, 5.38's would be better but, they aren't available for the diff combo you have.
 

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Lose the 35's ASAP! If you don't, expect this to happen fairly regularly. It is not just axles that are the problems running the D35, and 35"s
 

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ooh, yeah I missed the "35inch mickeys" in the post when I read it. There's the likely root cause as to why it blew.

If you don't want to give up the 35" tires, then it is time to consider a Super 35 kit, 8.8, or D44.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Theres 4.88 gears in the jeep currently with the 5 speed and the 4cyl-I've read on several posts that I should get new axles at least in the rear, but the jeep has 130,000 miles on it and it ran 33" tires for the first 50,000 or so and then 35" until now, did I just get lucky that it didn't happen sooner. I would like to put a limited slip diff in the rear as I'm not a fan of the air locker price and I only wheel on occasion, more of just small trails and what not.
As you have found out, 35's on a D35 isn't a good combo. So, in order to make the 35 last, you need a Super 35 kit which will include 30 spline alloy axles and a locker, either auto or air. Then of course you will need a R&P, bearings, and someone to set it up.

In all likelihood, you are running a stock gear ratio. You really need to re-gear, which means doing the front as well, to run that size tire. What trans and engine do you have?

Generally: auto trans you need 5.13's; manual 4.88 or 5.13. Ideally for 35's and the auto, 5.38's would be better but, they aren't available for the diff combo you have.
 

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Theres 4.88 gears in the jeep currently with the 5 speed and the 4cyl-I've read on several posts that I should get new axles at least in the rear, but the jeep has 130,000 miles on it and it ran 33" tires for the first 50,000 or so and then 35" until now, did I just get lucky that it didn't happen sooner. I would like to put a limited slip diff in the rear as I'm not a fan of the air locker price and I only wheel on occasion, more of just small trails and what not.
Yikes, 35's with the 2.5, even with 4.88, is less than optimal, to say the least. 5.13 would be better but still not enough gear.

So, you are at a crossroads so to speak. You need the Super 35 kit for any longevity with the 35. That means a locker of some kind, there is no 30 spline limited slip available. A S35 kit with Detroit locker is about 1000, 1400 with ARB plus you need the compressor.

If you truly only want a limited slip, you need to look into a 8.8 conversion, find a TJ Dana 44, or building a Dana 44/60/Ford 9".

35's are a large tire on the TJ and you need to build accordingly.
 

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Yeah lose the 35's especially if you're gonna do a LSD and be sure to upgrade the axle shafts to something stronger than the stock 1040 shafts.....I believe pencils would be stronger than those stock shafts.

I run a S35 in mine with a Detroit it does fine on the street and not that much more expensive than an LSD. Will need to do 30 spline shafts if you do lock it. A S35 is the only way a 35 will handle 35's with any kind of dependability. Still, IMO wouldn't recommend 35's though.

Yikes, 35's with the 2.5, even with 4.88, is less than optimal, to say the least. 5.13 would be better but still not enough gear.
I run 5.13 with 33's and a 5 speed on the 4 banger...... Works quite well wouldn't even consider 35's with that ratio though. That's as deep as you can go with the 35/30 combo.
 
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