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Dealership saying I need to change the fluid at 34,000 miles.

They say the fluid is dirty.

Thoughts?


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Rear & Front Diff Fluid

U didnt say what your Wrangler you have.. 2013 Maintenance schedule for mine indicates Inspect at 20k & 60K. CHANGE if using off road or frequent trailer towing at 40K. That's By The Book.
 

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U didnt say what your Wrangler you have.. 2013 Maintenance schedule for mine indicates Inspect at 20k & 60K. CHANGE if using off road or frequent trailer towing at 40K. That's By The Book.


2017 JKU Big Bear (sport s) with LSD.


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The rear diff fluid will look dark in part from normal wear products from the (some would say “crappy”) clutch-pack based factory LSD.

Just the dark color doesn’t mean it is time to change unless indicated by mileage since last change per Owner’s manual and how you’ve used your Jeep, or if the rear end/breather possibly got submerged (needs immediate change regardless of mileage since last service), etc. I changed mine at 50k miles as I was already under there to change the motor oil. The rear fluid was dark, the front diff fluid still looked brand new. Changed them both as gear oil is far cheaper than gears n diffs.
 

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The rear diff oil will always look dark after 20K miles, if milky then a real problem. They are just trying to make money from you is my bet. Follow the manual and so easy to do yourself for just the price of gear oil
 

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I do a lot of water crossings and towing, so I change mine every two years. Gear oil is cheap and the process is easy.


At 30k both were complete crap, brown and milky. I just did them again at 45k and the front was milky again, the rear was just dark. I will be extending my breathers before I hit any more trails.
 

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Is super easy... 3/8 drive socket wrench, drain pan, new oil and transfer pump if you want.

1. Loosen Fill plug (very important, need to make sure you can fill it before you drain it)
2. Remove drain plug, drain, check magnet on plug for gear chunks and clean it and re-
install it.
3. Fill it to the point you get a small amount of fluid overflow at the fill hole, install the
fill plug.

Since you have the Big Bear with the rear LSD, the rear differential needs to have the slip additive. Some manufactures already have it added, some don't. Check your owners manual for oil weights. I use 75/90 in the front axle and the 85/140( I think) in the rear axle.

Also, get with a local Jeep Club. There's a huge amount of knowledge to be shared.
 

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Dealership saying I need to change the fluid at 34,000 miles.

They say the fluid is dirty.

Thoughts?


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That is a classic shady dealership move. Likely they never even looked at the fluid. They certainly didn't test it to see if it is actually dirty. It is just a standard response at some (many) dealers. They are trying to talk you into work you don't need.
I would let them know you don't appreciate that sort of stuff. And tell them if they do it again you will no longer go there. Or just stop going there.
Changing diff oil is fairly easy, but diff oil is stinky. I keep telling myself I am going to pay someone next time to change it. But then, I keep doing it myself as it isn't hard.
Pay someone, or do it yourself. But I would not pay a shop to change it that is trying to scare me into paying them to change it. I would take it to an honest shop. That sort of BS isn't honest.
 

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My dealer just told Me the same thing. Had the Jeep in for warranty work (cracked coolant overflow tank). Mine has 30K. I will do it myself. After checking youtube and other websites, there seems to be some concern or disagreements on using RTV sealer or a true gasket if you pull the diff cover to inspect (what I want to do) and I prefer a true gasket. I still need to research the additive needed for the LSD or Tru-Lock.
 

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My dealer just told Me the same thing. Had the Jeep in for warranty work (cracked coolant overflow tank). Mine has 30K. I will do it myself. After checking youtube and other websites, there seems to be some concern or disagreements on using RTV sealer or a true gasket if you pull the diff cover to inspect (what I want to do) and I prefer a true gasket. I still need to research the additive needed for the LSD or Tru-Lock.
I am sure lube lockers are fine but I have been changing diff oil for 45 years give or take and have always used a bead of RVT and in all that time have never had a leak. almost all quality synthetic gear oil ie royal purple, Mobil1, Valvoline, mopar, amsoil etc have the required modifiers.
 

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My dealer just told Me the same thing. Had the Jeep in for warranty work (cracked coolant overflow tank). Mine has 30K. I will do it myself. After checking youtube and other websites, there seems to be some concern or disagreements on using RTV sealer or a true gasket if you pull the diff cover to inspect (what I want to do) and I prefer a true gasket. I still need to research the additive needed for the LSD or Tru-Lock.
Get a Lube Locker gasket. They are re-usable and work great. As for fluid, i use this gear lube. It has the necessary additive and comes in a squeeze bottle for easy refilling.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/severe-gear-75w-90/?zo=226468
 

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I do like that new packaging from Amsoil. That should help, especially for those with the standard sideways filling port (we have ARB diff covers which have the vertical fill port).
I like the LubeLocker gaskets. But either way is fine. My main grip with silicone is cleaning off the old silicone after pulling the cover. The LubeLocker gasket is less work (and I am lazy).
 

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Dealerships are NOTORIOUS for telling you it is what "THEY" recommend. I use to always say, I would consider it, only if my Owners manual says that is what is recommended, but if the owners manual says it isn't time, then you are telling me too early. They got the hint.
 

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I put the ARB covers with Lube Lockers on. Now oil change will be very easy. Torco oil.
 

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The gear lube probably is dirty, but that does not necessarily mean that it needs to be changed. And if it does need to be changed, DO NOT LET THE DEALERSHIP DO IT. Changing the gear lube is as easy as changing the motor oil. Use a 3/8" ratchet to remove the fill plug first to make sure you can refill it, then remove the drain plug. Once it is finished draining, reinstall the drain plug and refill the differential with gear lube. I use Valvoline gear lube and it comes with the limited slip additive. The rear differential needs 2 quarts and it cost about $7 per quart. I brought my Jeep in for the airbag recall and the dealership wanted to change the gear lube while it was there for $130. I laughed at them and told them I can easily do it myself for $15.

 

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Is super easy... 3/8 drive socket wrench, drain pan, new oil and transfer pump if you want.

1. Loosen Fill plug (very important, need to make sure you can fill it before you drain it)
2. Remove drain plug, drain, check magnet on plug for gear chunks and clean it and re-
install it.
3. Fill it to the point you get a small amount of fluid overflow at the fill hole, install the
fill plug.

Since you have the Big Bear with the rear LSD, the rear differential needs to have the slip additive. Some manufactures already have it added, some don't. Check your owners manual for oil weights. I use 75/90 in the front axle and the 85/140( I think) in the rear axle.

Also, get with a local Jeep Club. There's a huge amount of knowledge to be shared.
^ this. It's a one-wrench-out-of-five job. You can do it yourself in 5 minutes for about $15, or 1/20th of what the stealership will charge you.

Plenty of DIY videos on the Interwebs.

As mentioned check your manual for the interval, grade and additives if any.
 
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