Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What am I really in for here?

I was under the front end today adding the sensor for the tranny temp gauges and I got a real good look at how badly my rear main seal needs to be replaced.

From all I have read online, it looks like it is pretty clear cut and dry about what I need to do, however, there's always something.....

What kind of things have you guys ran into doing this project?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,776 Posts
It's not bad, just time consuming. I've done mine twice. The only issue I ran into last round was removing my exhaust. One of the bolts north of the catalytic converter was seized & set me back a spell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
Assuming it's the 4.0, disconnecting the exhaust was the hardest part for me. PB blaster didn't seem to help. I tried the 50/50 mixture of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid and they came right out the next day with hardly any effort.

It turns out that my RMS wasn't leaking after all. The rear of my oil pan gasket was leaking. I used a Fel-Pro oil pan gasket and it worked great.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,016 Posts
Unless it is leaking really bad, don't mess with it. That's part of a TJ-leaking rear seal.

Make sure it's not the oil pan....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
327 Posts
Im doing mine soon so I have been doing a lot of research, here are things i have noted

Keep track of bolt/stud location as they are different sizes

Use a brass punch to prevent scoring the crank

Use rtv on the corners and back lip to prevent the gasket from falling in (a lot of people mention this one, seems like everything is installled good and on first startup oil pours from the back of the pan)

Like all gaskets when reinstalling the bolts go hand tight first, then slowly torque in a cross crossing pattern to be sure you are applying even pressure to the gasket
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
I recently did mine straight 6 with auto tranny. 04 rubicon. Let me know if you have any questions
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wdkirk01

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
I just got my RMS in the mail yesterday, as I'm gearing up to do it this weekend. My oil pan is also leaking so this will take care of both problems as well. I loose about a quart of oil between oil changes, and I do mine every 3k so I definitely think it's time to get it done :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Im doing mine soon so I have been doing a lot of research, here are things i have noted

Keep track of bolt/stud location as they are different sizes

Use a brass punch to prevent scoring the crank

Use rtv on the corners and back lip to prevent the gasket from falling in (a lot of people mention this one, seems like everything is installled good and on first startup oil pours from the back of the pan)

Like all gaskets when reinstalling the bolts go hand tight first, then slowly torque in a cross crossing pattern to be sure you are applying even pressure to the gasket
As a side note, make sure it's anaerobic RTV. I'm buying some from a dealer before I get the job started.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
As a side note, make sure it's anaerobic RTV. I'm buying some from a dealer before I get the job started.
You can get that stuff at Advance Auto and probably other places in town. Did my RMS about a month ago. Ugh...the exhaust killed me...but got it done along with the front crank seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I just attempted this last Friday. In my opinion it was a royal nightmare/PITA. I have done a lot of different wrenching to include rebuilding a Chevy 350 and this was the worst. The reason is I do not have a lift so I was on my back doing this by myself and it took 8 hours. After all of that...it leaks worse now then it did before I changed it. After talking to a shop, the guy asked me if I trimmed my RMS? I can simply say no because no where that I read mentions this. I do recall it being a little higher on one side and flush on another. I also used anerobic sealant but everyone else including the shop mentioned using the gray RTV. Taking it out and putting it in was a little nerve racking as well but be patient. Anyway, I did not trim the seal and put it all back together to find that it leaks like an AMF Harley! Needless to say it is at the shop. I would NEVER try this again. On another note I was able to get the pan out without completely removing my exhaust. I let the front axle sag completely and lowered my skid plate with an ATV jack. This allowed me to droop my exhaust and slide it forward with removing the rear hanger bolts. In the end, if I would have known I could have had it done for $450 total...I would have done that in a heart beat. This job cost me 8 hours on my back and 2 RMS's on top of the $385 that the shop is gonna charge me since my oil, oil filter, and oil pan gasket are new. I chalk this up to a lesson learned that some jobs are just better to let someone else do it.

Of course this is my opinion and others are more willing to tackle these tasks. Me...I make enough money to pay someone else to do it.

Just my .02

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Well the shop called me to let me know that I apparently put the seal in backwards? Are these seals directional? I didn't notice a difference but I could have missed something. OR...?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
I was really temped to do mine however when I was talking to my local shop I mentioned the seal leaking. He said $350 out the door, back in 4 hours. It actually took all day because he had to pressure wash everything due to the length of time it had been leaking. I went shopping with my daughter and we had a great time. The $350 wasn't that bad. done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,037 Posts
Well the shop called me to let me know that I apparently put the seal in backwards? Are these seals directional? I didn't notice a difference but I could have missed something. OR...?
You absolutely missed something.

A quote from the FSM:

Carefully position the upper seal into the groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces toward the front of the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
You absolutely missed something.

A quote from the FSM:

Carefully position the upper seal into the groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces toward the front of the engine.
Ain't that the truth. SOB...that mistake cost me $413!! Me being pissed is an understatement. Still, after spending 8 hrs on my back...I'd pay somebody all day long to do it for me. That ain't worth my time. All I have to say is good luck to anyone who wants to tackle this one. If the exhaust wasn't in the way then it would be MUCH easier. I'll pay next time but hopefully that won't be for a LONG time from now.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top