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Discussion Starter #1
I moved the rear sway bar links to the front. When I eyeball the rear to level it looks like I need 12" links to be level. Going with EVO HD that have a 11.9" max or the next size is 12.5" min. Better to be a little up than down? Right?

Also, what I don't understand is that I put 1" synergy rear coils on and I need 3" additional length on my end links? Stock is 9"...

Thanks for the help!
 

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I moved the rear sway bar links to the front. When I eyeball the rear to level it looks like I need 12" links to be level. Going with EVO HD that have a 11.9" max or the next size is 12.5" min. Better to be a little up than down? Right? Also, what I don't understand is that I put 1" synergy rear coils on and I need 3" additional length on my end links? Stock is 9"... Thanks for the help!
In the rear it's better to be a little down. Check out the RE1157, I think they are 11.5.

The JKS adjustables can be made any length you want and are a premium piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just ordered the re1157! I hope it is a pair. I received my order of what I thought was a pair for the front today, but was just a single link, shipping it back tomorrow and moving backs to the front. So a little gun shy, but the jeep has been sitting for almost 10 days waiting on ordering and shipping snafu's. Just like to get it all together so I am having them overnight shipped.

Thanks again for the help. At 11.5" the sway bar won't be but maybe 5 degrees down, hopefully that is good.
 

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Just ordered the re1157! I hope it is a pair. I received my order of what I thought was a pair for the front today, but was just a single link, shipping it back tomorrow and moving backs to the front. So a little gun shy, but the jeep has been sitting for almost 10 days waiting on ordering and shipping snafu's. Just like to get it all together so I am having them overnight shipped.

Thanks again for the help. At 11.5" the sway bar won't be but maybe 5 degrees down, hopefully that is good.
It'll drive fine without the rear sway bar connected, if you need to drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It'll drive fine without the rear sway bar connected, if you need to drive it.
Thanks! Sad to say that this isn't the only part I am waiting for. Once I got the new shocks on, since I received 3 5000x and 1 5000 in the shipment that took 5 days. I droop both ends and see I need brake line relocation both front and back. Didn't expect to need the fronts! So had to order them, they arrive today. So hopefully the RE1157 will be a pair of rear sway bar links and I will be on the road by Saturday.

I hope I will be happy with my final setup! Synergy coils and 29/30 5000x shocks and the rest of the suspension components will be stock. Run 285/70/17 with 1" bump stops front (hockey puck) and 1" bump stops in the rear (trex vinyl coated decking). I think most people get a kit, so small lift stuff is hard to come by. Have to innovate.
 

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Thanks! Sad to say that this isn't the only part I am waiting for. Once I got the new shocks on, since I received 3 5000x and 1 5000 in the shipment that took 5 days. I droop both ends and see I need brake line relocation both front and back. Didn't expect to need the fronts! So had to order them, they arrive today. So hopefully the RE1157 will be a pair of rear sway bar links and I will be on the road by Saturday.

I hope I will be happy with my final setup! Synergy coils and 29/30 5000x shocks and the rest of the suspension components will be stock. Run 285/70/17 with 1" bump stops front (hockey puck) and 1" bump stops in the rear (trex vinyl coated decking). I think most people get a kit, so small lift stuff is hard to come by. Have to innovate.
Yeah, I pieced mine together as well. Left out a lot of fluff stuff I didn't want.

What year Jeep do you have? If it's 2012+ you should have plenty of brake line.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it is a 2014 JKUR, all the brake lines and sensor wires were restricting the droop. And the e-brake cable and vent tube on the rear had to have some extension as well.
 

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it is a 2014 JKUR, all the brake lines and sensor wires were restricting the droop. And the e-brake cable and vent tube on the rear had to have some extension as well.
Initially when I did my lift (3.5", netted right at 4.5" running light for now), I just unbolted the rear brake line brackets and let them hang. It'll be fine for a few days or so. I used some scrap I had laying around that was predrilled, cut it to length, and used it for relocation on rear. If you remove the front lines from the brackets in front (pry them out), there's plenty there and then some. Just zip-tie them to the shock body and you're golden.

EDIT:

Oh yeah...just remove the E-Brake lines from the brackets and they're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Initially when I did my lift (3.5", netted right at 4.5" running light for now), I just unbolted the rear brake line brackets and let them hang. It'll be fine for a few days or so. I used some scrap I had laying around that was predrilled, cut it to length, and used it for relocation on rear. If you remove the front lines from the brackets in front (pry them out), there's plenty there and then some. Just zip-tie them to the shock body and you're golden.

EDIT:

Oh yeah...just remove the E-Brake lines from the brackets and they're good to go.
Ah, I was wondering about the fronts, seemed like a bracket wasn't going to help much! Thanks for the tip! They are just hanging right now, but I will pry them out and zip tie them.
 

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Just ordered the re1157! I hope it is a pair. I received my order of what I thought was a pair for the front today, but was just a single link, shipping it back tomorrow and moving backs to the front. So a little gun shy, but the jeep has been sitting for almost 10 days waiting on ordering and shipping snafu's. Just like to get it all together so I am having them overnight shipped.

Thanks again for the help. At 11.5" the sway bar won't be but maybe 5 degrees down, hopefully that is good.
Yep, it's a pair and 5° down is excellent.
 

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I have been running this way for a couple of years. I had the long rear 5000X's 28.25" or there abouts and had not issues on max droop or flex. don't forget to either extend or move your vent tube so it does not come off the diff when maxed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have been running this way for a couple of years. I had the long rear 5000X's 28.25" or there abouts and had not issues on max droop or flex. don't forget to either extend or move your vent tube so it does not come off the diff when maxed out.
Crazy that the zip ties will stay in the hanger. That is what I am going to do then. Thanks for the pic.
 

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Awesome news! Been worried all night. Rubicon Express just earned a customer!
Can vouch for them... Not a great shot but they're on my build too.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Can vouch for them... Not a great shot but they're on my build too.

Thanks for the picture, but question for you now. Only place that it wouldn't hit the inside of the tire was to install in on the opposite (inside) of the shock mount and sway bar. If I installed on the inside with a little move of the brake line it swings clear. Any issues you think?
 

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Thanks for the picture, but question for you now. Only place that it wouldn't hit the inside of the tire was to install in on the opposite (inside) of the shock mount and sway bar. If I installed on the inside with a little move of the brake line it swings clear. Any issues you think?
Inside works. What back spacing are you running?
 

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Pics 4.5 on 17x8.5" rims
4.5 with a 17 should have lots of room. But either way, it's not uncommon for people to run the links on the inside.
 
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