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Discussion Starter #1
How many of you are running your JK with the REAR swaybar removed? Any negative side effects?
 

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I ran without one for several months. I couldn't really tell any difference, except that maybe I had slightly better traction accelerating out of corners, because the inside rear didn't lift off quite as much.
 

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There is no reason to remove the rear sway bar - it gains you nothing other than making turns more squirrelly.
 

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I have the Teraflex Dual Rate front sway bar. On the Metalcloak flex trailer we discovered the rear bar & links were acting like limit straps. The Metalcloak guys recommended running no rear bar. I was skeptical, but gave it a try. There is virtually no negative effect on the street, and I gained gained a significant amount of wheel travel in rear on the trails. The stock rear bar has almost no effect on the street, it’s roll resistance is only effective when the bar is at the end of its travel.

Running without one requires an effective front bar, both on the street and on the trail. Running the front disconnected along with no rear bar would likely be unstable. A dual rate setup like the Teraflex or the ORO would be recommended.
 

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the rear bar & links were acting like limit straps.
This is exactly what mine does. I've never disconnected it so I can't comment on that portion of the question... but because it is connected I don't have to run any bump stops in the rear so I have no reason to change.
 

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TF 3" sport lift with falcon 3.3 shocks



I run with BOTH front and rear sway bars removed. Nice ride. No "squirrelly" feel at all. It gets rid of that "jarring" feel when one wheel goes over a pothole or similar. Has much better 'float and rebound' over uneven surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just installed my lift and I'm working through some fine tuning, but I think removal of the rear swaybar may be in order, because of how close it comes to my rear brake lines. If the jeep flexes just right I could see it hitting where the hardline/softline meet along the frame rail.
 

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I just installed my lift and I'm working through some fine tuning, but I think removal of the rear swaybar may be in order, because of how close it comes to my rear brake lines. If the jeep flexes just right I could see it hitting where the hardline/softline meet along the frame rail.
I haven't even really though of that...
 

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Are you running proper size shocks and bump stop and sway bar links? A swaybar is not a "limit strap". Something else in the setup needs adjusted, not the swaybar needs removed. The rear swaybar is actually totally puny to begin with, any effect is absolutely miniscule at best.

And I strongly caution those who consider running zero swaybar front and rear on the street - it is squirrelly. It is dangerous. You make a quick evasive move at 75mph as you go around a curve - see how you or the other folks involved in the accident you caused like it then.

Offroad when both axles are disconnected it is going to be very tippy in off camber spots - be forewarned. Very tippy.
 

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And I strongly caution those who consider running zero swaybar front and rear on the street - it is squirrelly. It is dangerous. You make a quick evasive move at 75mph as you go around a curve - see how you or the other folks involved in the accident you caused like it then.

I would also be worried if it was deemed that your mod was a contributing factor, and of the resulting civil (property damage) and criminal (injuries) liabilities.
 

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I would also be worried if it was deemed that your mod was a contributing factor, and of the resulting civil (property damage) and criminal (injuries) liabilities.
I have wondered about liabilities with modifications in general, not just sway bars. Over sized tires without upgraded brakes, solid steel bumpers that don't crumple to absorb energy, Frankenstein lifts put together by shade tree mechanics, rear full time lockers on icy roads, etc.. I guess in the end, as long as the jeep meets the state DOT rules it's OK.
 

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Threads like this leave me confused.... Many people upgrade to the Hellwig 7/8" rear sway bar, which is larger than stock, and say it helps improve ride quality. But based on this things above, it seems that a thicker sway bar would make a ride in a lifted Wrangler worse?

Any clarification to help me figure this out?
 

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Threads like this leave me confused.... Many people upgrade to the Hellwig 7/8" rear sway bar, which is larger than stock, and say it helps improve ride quality. But based on this things above, it seems that a thicker sway bar would make a ride in a lifted Wrangler worse?

Any clarification to help me figure this out?

Well, it's an indication that ride quality is a highly subjective issue. Sway bars are a restriction to the independence of the left vs right springs so a thicker sway bar means even more restriction which spells out to a minimal body roll but an even firmer ride when hitting bumps/ruts with one wheel. Some people like that. I personally don't but that's just me. Granted I have already stiffened my ride when I replaced the stock suspension with heavier springs and shocks so it may equate to the same thing.


I would however suggest that the need (or want) for a thicker sway bar may just be an indication that your existing springs/shocks have aged out and need replacing. I would look at that idea long before I would consider a thicker sway bar anyway. In my mind it doesn't make sense to attempt further spring restriction when simply getting a stiffer spring may hold the answer.
 

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Of all of the sketchy mods that are commonly done to almost every Jeep Wrangler out there, I feel that the hysteria over the dangers of removing sway bars is kind of funny actually.
 

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Are you running proper size shocks and bump stop and sway bar links? A swaybar is not a "limit strap". Something else in the setup needs adjusted, not the swaybar needs removed. The rear swaybar is actually totally puny to begin with, any effect is absolutely miniscule at best.

And I strongly caution those who consider running zero swaybar front and rear on the street - it is squirrelly. It is dangerous. You make a quick evasive move at 75mph as you go around a curve - see how you or the other folks involved in the accident you caused like it then.

Offroad when both axles are disconnected it is going to be very tippy in off camber spots - be forewarned. Very tippy.

Mods are dangerous... PERIOD. It even states that in the owners manual. You do ANY mod at your own risk, with the understanding that there is indeed risk... and I would suggest that steering assist mods and big brake mods are probably among the most unsafe and probably open you up to a much wider array of lawsuits should things go wrong, but that's just me.
 

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Coming off the Rubicon Trail, my electric sway bar wouldn’t reengage. Drove almost all the way to Reno w/o it. I was nervous on every corner and DID NOT feel safe. This is with 3” Evo coils and 35”s. I would not recommend street driving without a front sway bar.
 

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I haven't removed mine. There's no travel to be gained there on stock control arms and the shock lengths I'm running. The brake lines never hit the swaybar in my setup.
 

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There is no reason to remove the rear sway bar - it gains you nothing other than making turns more squirrelly.

Normally I would agree completely. In my case, I was chasing a clunk from the rear & tracked it down to a long bolt the PO, (or his mechanic), had installed with an ARB trackbar bracket on the chassis end. It was so long, in fact, that it was bent from catching on the rear swaybar arm & had worn a groove ~1.8" deep into it. Removing the swaybar fixed the bolt catching on it until I got a different bracket for the axle end.


I honestly couldn't feel any difference in the JKU handling without it. I was cautious at first, as I was concerned about excessive roll, but soon found that I couldn't tell it wasn't there. The only change was maybe a little less loss of traction or less activation of the traction control, (depending on whether ESC was disabled or not), when turning onto the main road out of my street. (Main road is on the ridge & the streets come up to it, so anything other than a relaxed turn onto it gets traction issues.)


Any difference that I felt could have been completely subjective, or suggestive, as the case may be.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This past weekend I finally got around to installing new extended stainless brakes (MetalCloak) on the rear of my JKUR, in hopes that it would cure how close the sway-bar comes to the brake lines. I re-installed the rear sway-bar only to be let down because it still comes way too close to the rear brake lines where they run along the frame rail. So off the sway-bar came again until I can figure something else out.
 

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This past weekend I finally got around to installing new extended stainless brakes (MetalCloak) on the rear of my JKUR, in hopes that it would cure how close the sway-bar comes to the brake lines. I re-installed the rear sway-bar only to be let down because it still comes way too close to the rear brake lines where they run along the frame rail. So off the sway-bar came again until I can figure something else out.

You can unclip the hard brake line from the side of the frame rail and then rebend the hard brake line so it runs along the top of the frame rail instead of the side of it.

Or you can cut the extra threads of the bolt that is sticking out of the nut that holds the sway bar to the links which is usually what catches the hard line.

.
 
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