[Scout]

Well I pulled into the garage the other day and heard something squeaking from underneath the Jeep. My first thought was it must be my control arms. Checked those and everything was fine. Then I crawled underneath and found out that my rear track bar is rubbing against the PSC gas tank skid. So here’s my question, has anyone ever used the Nth Rear Track bar relocation kit? I’m thinking this might be the perfect solution but I wanted to see if anyone else here has used it or has an opinion about it.

Also, I’m looking at upgrading my rear driveshaft. Does anyone hve any experience with the Rubicon Express 1350 or Coast 1350 rear drive shaft?

And last but not least, I’m about to pull the trigger on a Currie Antirock. What, if any, is the real benefit of the aluminum arm upgrade? Any experience with the Antirock with the aluminum arms?

Thanks!

 

[mrbigjeep]

scout, you must have a lot of $$$. are they taking applications where you work? and will i get to stay on WF all day?!?!

 

[Scout]

scout, you must have a lot of $$$. are they taking applications where you work? and will i get to stay on WF all day?!?!

Well I wouldn't say a lot of money. I'm just trying to get this damn Jeep finished and correct all my mistakes.

 

[mrbigjeep]

Well I wouldn't say a lot of money. I'm just trying to get this damn Jeep finished and correct all my mistakes.

well i'll take whatever you take off

 

[Scout]

well i'll take whatever you take off

Deal.

 

[mrbigjeep]

really? seriously?

View attachment 919 View attachment 920 View attachment 921

 

[Scout]

really? seriously?

View attachment 919 View attachment 920 View attachment 921

I see you fixed it.

Yes, seriously.

 

[MR.CLIFFORD]

Well I pulled into the garage the other day and heard something squeaking from underneath the Jeep. My first thought was it must be my control arms. Checked those and everything was fine. Then I crawled underneath and found out that my rear track bar is rubbing against the PSC gas tank skid. So here’s my question, has anyone ever used the Nth Rear Track bar relocation kit? I’m thinking this might be the perfect solution but I wanted to see if anyone else here has used it or has an opinion about it.

Also, I’m looking at upgrading my rear driveshaft. Does anyone hve any experience with the Rubicon Express 1350 or Coast 1350 rear drive shaft?

And last but not least, I’m about to pull the trigger on a Currie Antirock. What, if any, is the real benefit of the aluminum arm upgrade? Any experience with the Antirock with the aluminum arms?

Thanks!

how about some real tech instead of parts trading??

Honestly? Ditch the stupid rear track bar. There are plenty of capable companies making a rear tri link setup that just rocks to me. I would do whatever it takes to get rid of the stupid rear track bar. It is in a bad location. It doesn't ever really get better and I just plain hate it.

I don't have experience with the RE drive shafts. What rear shaft are you running now? Most DS shops can take your 1310 slip off and install a 1350 and rebalance. Shouldn't cost much. Are you prepared to reinstall the pinion yoke with exact precision so you don't crush the sleeve any more?

I had the option of the aluminum arms when I got my anti rock. I got the steel. I didn't like the thought of aluminum on steel that sees lots of force. Plus I didn't care about weight savings which was the only reason I could possibly imagine needing the aluminum arms.

Now. What parts are you getting rid of? I might need some

 

[Scout]

how about some real tech instead of parts trading??

Honestly? Ditch the stupid rear track bar. There are plenty of capable companies making a rear tri link setup that just rocks to me. I would do whatever it takes to get rid of the stupid rear track bar. It is in a bad location. It doesn't ever really get better and I just plain hate it.

I don't have experience with the RE drive shafts. What rear shaft are you running now? Most DS shops can take your 1310 slip off and install a 1350 and rebalance. Shouldn't cost much. Are you prepared to reinstall the pinion yoke with exact precision so you don't crush the sleeve any more?

I had the option of the aluminum arms when I got my anti rock. I got the steel. I didn't like the thought of aluminum on steel that sees lots of force. Plus I didn't care about weight savings which was the only reason I could possibly imagine needing the aluminum arms.

Now. What parts are you getting rid of? I might need some

Actually I have considered the tri link rear. Other than Full Traction who else makes a tri link? Also, would the Nth bracket be a good short term fix rather than the tri link? I know I know, I'll spend the money eventually but $ 150 or so dollars now isn't that much compared to $ 500 or $ 600 later.

I'm running the stock Rubicon drive shaft right now with a t-case drop. I REALLY want to get rid of the t-case drop asap. Coast seems to make a good 1350 driveshaft from what I've heard and so does High Angle Driveline. I'd like to upgrade to a 1350 now and don't mind replacing the whole damn thing at once. If I did replace it I could always have the stock as a spare. Pinion yoke? Will it be a problem even on a direct bolt on driveshaft?

Aluminum arms - that's what I thought. I'll stick with the steel.

 

[1BLKJP]

Actually I have considered the tri link rear. Other than Full Traction who else makes a tri link? Also, would the Nth bracket be a good short term fix rather than the tri link? I know I know, I'll spend the money eventually but $ 150 or so dollars now isn't that much compared to $ 500 or $ 600 later.

I'm running the stock Rubicon drive shaft right now with a t-case drop. I REALLY want to get rid of the t-case drop asap. Coast seems to make a good 1350 driveshaft from what I've heard and so does High Angle Driveline. I'd like to upgrade to a 1350 now and don't mind replacing the whole damn thing at once. If I did replace it I could always have the stock as a spare. Pinion yoke? Will it be a problem even on a direct bolt on driveshaft?

Aluminum arms - that's what I thought. I'll stick with the steel.

Here's my thoughts on your questions.

Anti-Rock - The aluminum arms are lighter weight, but I have seen first hand that they are weaker too. They can and have snapped on people. Just stick with the steel arms.

I agree with Clifford on the rear track bar issue. There are more companies than Full Traction that build a tri-link rear. RE builds one. RK builds one. etc.... However what kind of lift are you running right now?

In regards to your dshaft. Have you broken any ujoints or a yoke yet? Don't the Rubicon models have a 1330 setup anyway? Because I know out of all of the things that I have busted on my rig the 1310 joints in both the front and rear shafts haven't been one of them.

 

[Scout]

Here's my thoughts on your questions.

Anti-Rock - The aluminum arms are lighter weight, but I have seen first hand that they are weaker too. They can and have snapped on people. Just stick with the steel arms.

I agree with Clifford on the rear track bar issue. There are more companies than Full Traction that build a tri-link rear. RE builds one. RK builds one. etc.... However what kind of lift are you running right now?

In regards to your dshaft. Have you broken any ujoints or a yoke yet? Don't the Rubicon models have a 1330 setup anyway? Because I know out of all of the things that I have busted on my rig the 1310 joints in both the front and rear shafts haven't been one of them.

The steel arms versus the aluminum arms makes sense. I'll save myself the money for something else and stick with the steel.

My lift is a 4" (RC) SA with adjustable upper and lower control arms. I looked on RE's site and it appears their tri link is only available for a LA system. Full traction looks like it will works with the SA. I didn't look at RK (yet). So far the consensus is to forgo the bracket and go tri link? Errr....more money...more money...more money. Man $ 150.00 sure is less than $ 499.00. (can you tell I'm looking for someone to tell me the Nth bracket is the way to go? )

My driveshaft is ok right now but like I said I'd like to get rid of the TC drop. I'm getting mild vibes right now even with the TC drop. Surely that has to be putting some wear on my u-joints? Right? And yes they are 1330. If I get a new driveshaft why not go to a 1350? If you're going to replace it you might as well right?

 

[Scout]

^^^ I forgot to mention that I realize I asked for a lot of info there and I appreciate you guys taking the time to answer my post. ^^^

 

[Dirk]

To find the squeak, just have somebody rock the jeep while you look for the spot that it's coming from.

Since you said that you are considering upgrading your rear shaft, is it safe to assume that you are still running the stock rear shaft?
If you go with a double cardan rear shaft upgrade, you'll need to roll the pinion up for proper working angle. If your trackbar is hitting the skid now, it will be worse then.
We normally use a CV style trackbar bracket in those cases, which moves the axle mount forward again. That moves it away from the gas tank and also puts it back into a more natural alignment with the frame mount again.
We've clearanced some gas tank skids a bit too...

We sell Nth products, but haven't installed their trackbar bracket system yet...

We normally use High Angle Driveline or our DPG Powerdrive shafts- just depending on the application. Is your jeep a Rubicon?

 

[Dirk]

Well shoot- that's what I get for starting to reply to your post and then leaving and coming back hours later to finish.

I do agree also with the aluminum arms. They'd make me nervous.

The RE or JKS CV style trackbar bracket would be the way to go if you want a cheaper solution.

You could certailny go with a 1350 DC joint at the t-case and stay 1330 at the axle. That's how HAD makes there's.

 

[mr4x4]

forget the track bar go with a trylink or a triangulated 4 link in the rear
theirs alot of companies that make them heres a few

http://www.rockkrawler.com/

http://www.teraflex.biz/pages/jeepbuilder.php?jeepID=18&prodID=188&subID=4

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep-...-Systems.aspx?XnPath=173,177&Vid=7FCD38326967

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/index... List&l=make!model!modelEx&p=Jeep!Wrangler!TJ

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=312

 

[Scout]

Well shoot- that's what I get for starting to reply to your post and then leaving and coming back hours later to finish.

I do agree also with the aluminum arms. They'd make me nervous.

The RE or JKS CV style trackbar bracket would be the way to go if you want a cheaper solution.

You could certailny go with a 1350 DC joint at the t-case and stay 1330 at the axle. That's how HAD makes there's.

Dirk, with the RE or JKS bracket do you need an RE or JKS adjustable rear track bar or will they work with the factory track bar? I see that the Nth states it works with the factory and that's what I have right now.

Awww heck, I may just give you a call this afternoon and let you give me a lesson on all this stuff. The more I learn the dumber I seem to get. Will you be around today?

 

[Scout]

forget the track bar go with a trylink or a triangulated 4 link in the rear
theirs alot of companies that make them heres a few

http://www.rockkrawler.com/

http://www.teraflex.biz/pages/jeepbuilder.php?jeepID=18&prodID=188&subID=4

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep-...-Systems.aspx?XnPath=173,177&Vid=7FCD38326967

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/index... List&l=make!model!modelEx&p=Jeep!Wrangler!TJ

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=312

Thanks for the links. I'm thinking about scapping this whole thing sometime next year and re-doing my whole damn suspension. When I do I'm definatley going with a tri link in the rear.

 

[Dirk]

Dirk, with the RE or JKS bracket do you need an RE or JKS adjustable rear track bar or will they work with the factory track bar?

It depends...

Awww heck, I may just give you a call this afternoon and let you give me a lesson on all this stuff. The more I learn the dumber I seem to get. Will you be around today?

I'll be gone for a while on some errands, but should be back from around 2-5 central time today. JD will be here during that time, but he won't know about the particulars on this discussion.
Thanks!
Dirk

 

[Scout]

It depends...


I'll be gone for a while on some errands, but should be back from around 2-5 central time today. JD will be here during that time, but he won't know about the particulars on this discussion.
Thanks!
Dirk

Thanks Dirk. I'll give you a call between 2 and 5 CST this afternoon. Hopefully I can get a cure ordered from you today. Thanks for your help.

 

[Scout]

Well I decided to give Dirk a call at DPG so he could explain everything to me. Let me tell ya, Dirk gave me more information in 15 minutes over the phone than I've gotten from searching the internet for well over a year. I would STRONGLY encourage anyone who is about to spend a dime on their rig to give Dirk a call first. He is extremely patient and very knowledgable. Did I mention he's a wealth of information.

Dirk aswered all my questions a gave me some solutions for a few of the problems I'm having:

Antirock:
I've decided to go with the Currie Antirock with the steel arms. (when funds are available - hopefully next week)

Driveshaft:
If and when I pull the trigger on the driveshaft HAD will be the way I go. (Januaryish)

Rear Trackbar:
I went ahead and bought the Nth Rear Trackbar bracket to see if that'll solve the rubbing problem. I think spending $ 150.00 now is the best solution rather than doing a tri link and have to modify my exhaust etc and wind up spending well over $ 600 or $ 700. I'm going to kinda of be the guiniea (sp?) pig on this bracket so I'll post up and let everyone know how it comes out. If it doesn't work you'll see it in the "For Sale Section" .

Also, I'll be ditching my suspension system next spring or summer. Anyone want to guess who I'll be buying my new one from?

Thanks again for everyones help on this!