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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a rubicon 4.5" lift kit. Instructions said take rear track bar out and not reuse. I drove my jeep home today.....It was all over the road alot more than it was stock. Was taking that track bar out a good idea? If not, Should I get a longer bracket to put it back on with the lift? Thx
 

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I pulled mine years ago nefore my.RE 4.5 best thing I did. It did take a few days.to get used to it. Its not needed with leaf springs.
 

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As bill said, trac bars are not needed with leaf springs, they are meant for coil sprung axles and should never have been put on in the first place. I'm guessing your alignment is off after the lift, or the lack of a high steer setup is causing driving issues, but its definitely not from the lack of a trac bar.
 

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took both of mine out, like they said above, it takes a bit to get used to, but in the end it was a lot better!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As bill said, trac bars are not needed with leaf springs, they are meant for coil sprung axles and should never have been put on in the first place. I'm guessing your alignment is off after the lift, or the lack of a high steer setup is causing driving issues, but its definitely not from the lack of a trac bar.
What is high steer set up? Im new to these lifted vehicles. I did put the drop pitman arm on it. I Just pulled it out of the shop for alignment. It drove fine before i put all the lift and took it too the shop...It just wonders on the road now.....Lemme know more about what "high steer" means please. Is that the drop pitman arm? If so, I did that. Thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
took both of mine out, like they said above, it takes a bit to get used to, but in the end it was a lot better!
You took the front out too?? Directions in the lift didn't call for that. Maybe thats my problem...I got one in the front and not one in the back...Maybe I should remove the front too? :confused: Let me know what you guys think....I wouldn't even drive this Jeep over 55 MPH like it is now. My Ujoints are shot...Would that make a difference? I don't think so myself. Not in the wondering side to side. It seems like the steering wheel has more play in it than before. I dunno...I just got it...working on it....Havent drove it alot...Waiting for the slipyoke eliminator and drive shaft now...Not gonna replace U joints in old one. Gonna do it right. Thx for any replies here.
 

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Ok I just bought a 95 Wrangler Sahara (havent picked it up yet) and I used to drive a 84 Dodge Ramcharger and im sure the RamCharger didn't have the trac bars. Please excuse my NOOBNESS but what parts are trac bars and what is it that they are supposed to do? Will removing them help with flex? The Sahara I bought is BONE STOCK except a 6 inch body lift (I am removing it, it looks ridiculous)

Thanks Cameron
 

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Manwithplan46151 said:
You took the front out too?? Directions in the lift didn't call for that. Maybe thats my problem...I got one in the front and not one in the back...Maybe I should remove the front too? :confused: Let me know what you guys think....I wouldn't even drive this Jeep over 55 MPH like it is now.
I have a telescoping front track bar, but yes you can remove the front. As far as speed goes with a lifted jeep, big tires and no sway or track bars, I still drive 75-80 on the freeway.
 

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Tracation bars are meant to keep the body somewhat attached to the chassis. They prevent the body from rolling so much by allowing any shift in the cassis to travel to the other side of the frame, thus causing the body to roll less by distributing the weight across both leaf springs instead of just the one side. It may take you a few days to get used to it, but if this is a daily driver and you don't off road much, you can fabricate a longer adapter plat and re-install it. I did it to mine in the rear, just because I like to take it down the road sometimes and I sit a little high. I still removed the fron one however and it is a good thing to have both out when wheeling for more axle articulation.
 

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theamazingbeas said:
Tracation bars are meant to keep the body somewhat attached to the chassis. They prevent the body from rolling so much by allowing any shift in the cassis to travel to the other side of the frame, thus causing the body to roll less by distributing the weight across both leaf springs instead of just the one side. It may take you a few days to get used to it, but if this is a daily driver and you don't off road much, you can fabricate a longer adapter plat and re-install it. I did it to mine in the rear, just because I like to take it down the road sometimes and I sit a little high. I still removed the fron one however and it is a good thing to have both out when wheeling for more axle articulation.
This is incorrect, the only job the trac bar has is to center the axle laterally, nothing else. What you're describing is the job of the sway bar.. trac bars aka panhard bars are for coil sprung axles.. the leaf springs already take care of centering the axle laterally
 

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What is high steer set up? Im new to these lifted vehicles. I did put the drop pitman arm on it. I Just pulled it out of the shop for alignment. It drove fine before i put all the lift and took it too the shop...It just wonders on the road now.....Lemme know more about what "high steer" means please. Is that the drop pitman arm? If so, I did that. Thx
High steer relocates the other end of the drag link to the top of the passenger knuckle, this helps correct the extreme steering input. I drove a lifted TJ the other day that does the same thing you describe, he has 4" and no high steer.. my jeep has around 9" of lift and home made high steer, and i dont experience the same problems as his jeep does. I dont have trac bars or sway bars either.
 

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If you didn't remove your front track bar.. You are going to run into binding issue that cause the Jeep to pitch to one side and potentially cause unwanted tracking on the roads.

I would take it off, then take the Jeep to an alignment shop to get everything corrected... You torqued your bolts to the right specs again, right?
 

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I took off my rear trac bar and front sway bar with just the front trac bar connected and I have a 4" RC lift and a 2" shackle lift... It drives NOTICEABLY different. But get used to it. I off road maybe twice a month and I think it is worth it to drive without them, just realize it is not a nascar.... and if you see a deer DO NOT SWERVE, atleast at my height. Just leave the rear off and keep the front trac bar and sway bar on or take off the sway bars... If you drive carefully enough it won't matter a whole heck of a lot.
 

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I am just done soa lift. I added my rear track bar to the scrap pile. I originally didn't hook up the from 1 until I bought drop bracket. Doesn't make a tremendous amount of difference. I would keep sway bar. 1 thing that's important to remember, to keep your steering geometry correct over bumps the track bar and drag link must remain parallel. If they're not, as the rear moves upward, you wheels will turn slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you didn't remove your front track bar.. You are going to run into binding issue that cause the Jeep to pitch to one side and potentially cause unwanted tracking on the roads.

I would take it off, then take the Jeep to an alignment shop to get everything corrected... You torqued your bolts to the right specs again, right?
To be 100% honest.....Torqueing is tight...Thats all I do..Tighten until I feel they wont come off...Is it that important for specific torques? Or is it just to make sure it doesn't come loose? They won't come loose when I get done...but if it is possible..I might have something too tight. Lemme know how important this is and why? Thx. I know torqueing is important for engine specs.....But I am talking springs and front end parts here.
 

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To be 100% honest.....Torqueing is tight...Thats all I do..Tighten until I feel they wont come off...Is it that important for specific torques? Or is it just to make sure it doesn't come loose? They won't come loose when I get done...but if it is possible..I might have something too tight. Lemme know how important this is and why? Thx. I know torqueing is important for engine specs.....But I am talking springs and front end parts here.
VERY important, especially on a component that is constantly rotating. I believe the leaf bolts need to be in the 80ft lb range, and the ones on the frame need to be on the 90ft lb range.

To put that into perspective, you can only torque to around 35-40ft lbs on a standard 13" long 1/4" drive wrench and that's bearing down on it pretty hard. A torque wrench is 100% mandatroy with this kinds of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
VERY important, especially on a component that is constantly rotating. I believe the leaf bolts need to be in the 80ft lb range, and the ones on the frame need to be on the 90ft lb range.

To put that into perspective, you can only torque to around 35-40ft lbs on a standard 13" long 1/4" drive wrench and that's bearing down on it pretty hard. A torque wrench is 100% mandatroy with this kinds of work.
Thx alot.....I willl for sure go over them...I just don't have a taorgue wrench.....But I will get one. Thx alot...I appreciate you guys.
 

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It seems like the steering wheel has more play in it than before.
Have you still got the factory steering stabilizer on it? I removed both track bars and put an Old Man Emu steering stabilizer in. The YJ wanders a little at higher speeds, but it's definitely manageable. Especially with the OME stabilizer.

An indication of the driving conditions I have to put up with: a parade flag (national flag, etc.) is huge. The winds in northeast Oklahoma make the biggest of flags wave violently. Our highway roads tend to be pretty high off the ground, so to speak, and there's not much for windbreaks around here. I have a 4" lift with no track bars at all (but I do have disconnects on my sway bar). I live right off a highway and pretty much can't get anywhere without having to do at least 60mph.

All that being said, I never have a bad problem with wander and my steering still feels pretty tight. The gusts push me a little more than usual, but I just roll with the punches, in a way, and keep on trucking.

Trust me, a beefy stabilizer and attention to the road/conditions will help keep you safe.
 
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