[RAGMAN]

anyone ever remove or replace the rear track bar on a TJ.
i need to replace mine.. but not sure if the driver side bolt (the t55) has any bolt behind it or what it screws into.. looks to be very difficult to get behind the bolt unless i put it in the air, remove the wheel and tire, remove the control arm... anyone got a write up with pics..

or is it just as simple as removing the t55 and the bolt and nut on the pass side and putting in the new bar?


Jeep wants just under $300 for labor.. already got the track bar.. just not certain i can get to the bolts

ANY info would be very appreciated.

 

[tangofox007]

Jeep wants just under $300 for labor..

Wow. Now if I could just figure out how to get 5-6 of those jobs every day. $150 per bolt…shazamm!!!

 

[RAGMAN]

Wow. Now if I could just figure out how to get 5-6 of those jobs every day. $150 per bolt…shazamm!!!

i hear that.. after a little research it seems there is a tab or small peice of metal that holds the bolt on back.. used to hold while you thread the bolt.. might not be as difficult as it looks..

lets hope..

thanks

 

[97wrangler-242]

Been a while since I pulled the rear end but I'm pretty sure there was something welded to the nut to keep it from spinning. It was harder to line it up putting it in than removing it but I did it n the garage with basic tools and jack stands

 

[tangofox007]

i hear that.. after a little research it seems there is a tab or small peice of metal that holds the bolt on back.. used to hold while you thread the bolt.. might not be as difficult as it looks..

It's known as a "flagged nut." The flag eliminates the need to counterhold the nut with a wrench.

 

[RAGMAN]

It's known as a "flagged nut." The flag eliminates the need to counterhold the nut with a wrench.

thanks Tango

 

[RockHound]

When I bought my 99 in 2006 it had a long arm kit and no track bar, Still running it the same way.

 

[geiman]

When I bought my 99 in 2006 it had a long arm kit and no track bar, Still running it the same way.

And in your case the geometry was probably changed for that to work, but I don't think the OP wants to go running around without one.

OP: It's a very easy job provided the bolts aren't rusted in place too badly. Get some good penetrating oil, soak the bolts for a few days, and then give it a go.

 

[Thomas302]

I had a difficult time removing that bolt. I used the biggest torque bit I had to get it out. They put it in from back to front so when I finally got it loose it hit my gas tank trying to get the bolt out. I had to disconnect the shocks and lower the rear way down to have enough clearance. Then the bolt was in a bind so I had to get the bolt out as far as I could lower the rear and beat it out with a punch. I put it back in from front to back so I wouldn't have that problem again. I reused the stock bolt but I should have went down and just bought a new grade 8 bolt.