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I have a 1998 jeep wrangler 4 banger and i am planning on running 35 inch tires in the spring. I wouldn't plan on doing alot of offroading because i simply just dont have the power. If its going to spend most its time on the street would 4:10 gears be able to spin the 35's?
 

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You can't regear the axles that come with a 4-banger low enough to run 35" tires and your rear axle isn't strong enough for 35" tires anyway. Your Jeep came with 4.10 gears (assuming you have a 5-speed transmission) from the factory and 4.88 wouldn't be enough to turn 35" tires no matter what axle you have in the rear. 4.88 is the ratio 2.5L engine owners typically regear just to go to 33" tires.

More importantly, your rear Dana 35c axle isn't strong enough... really... to hold up to 35" tires even if it could be geared low enough, like to 5.38, which would be more appropriate for 35" tires with the 2.5L engine.

The biggest tire I would go with for those two reasons is 33" and for that, 4.88 is appropriate. Don't even consider 4.56 which is barely lower than your present 4.10 gearing and it's not even close to being a low enough ratio for 33" tires for the 2.5L engine. 4.56 is the appropropriate ratio for 33" tires for the 4.0L engine but not for the 2.5L engine.

If you regeared to 4.88 (the lowest ratio both axles can be geared to) and installed 35" tires instead of the recommended 33" size anyway, you'd quickly find out that you don't have enough power for 35" tires. :)
 

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If you want to run bigger tires you should buy a Jeep with a
6
4:10 gears
Dana 44


They make such a Jeep it's called a Rubicon.
 

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i run 4.10 in my 97 with the 2.5 5 speed and 33x12.5 mtrs it isnt fast but it is drivable, i bought a set of 4.88 gears new and new timken bearings but have decided not to swap them out, so they will be for sale.
 

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Yes guys up here in Newengland run Rubicon's with 35" s works just fine with the 4 to 1 transfere case.
 

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I've been happy with 4.10s in my 05 Rubi and 35s. Live at 9,200 feet and jeep to 13,000 +, here in central Colorado. Bought it new in 04 and had it in Moab, stock a number of times. Worked great there also with the 35s and 4.10s last year. I can still pull a steep mountain pass, Vail, Fremont, Monarch, Wolf Creek at 55-60. Lost around 10 mph on the passes going from stock to 35s. Can I live with that? Most likely as it's not my DD. At 7,000 to 8,000 feet on the flats it will do 70 - 75 fine in 6th and if you want to pass, go to 5th. Bet at sea level it would do pretty dam good as at 10,000 feet you've lost close to 30% of your HP, would love to run it at sea level with the 35s and see what happened. As a retired auto and truck repair shop owner ( son's run it now) I can regear the Rubi myself for a good price. I remember driving it home new on I-70 from Denver up to the Eisenhower Tunnel, 11,000 feet and thinking what a slug compared to cars and trucks I usually drive. Guess what I'm saying is it isn't a hell of a lot worse with the 35s over the 31s. Will I ever regear, only time will tell.
My two bits on 4,10s and 35s again, Ron
 

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A few years ago I had a 97 with the 4cyl with 35s , it was no rocket by any means but it worked for the couple years I had it and I had fun with it and didn't break anything . I didn't abuse it but we all don't buy toys for the same reasons . Look at how many Toyota pick ups in the early 80s that had at least 35s on it with 4cyl . They were great offroad too. Sure if you could afford it you could change gears but if not ya drove it and lived with it and if you couldn't their is always some one looking for bigger tires it seems . I have a 6cyl and 4.10s now and have no problem with it
 

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I have a 1998 jeep wrangler 4 banger and i am planning on running 35 inch tires in the spring. I wouldn't plan on doing alot of offroading because i simply just dont have the power. If its going to spend most its time on the street would 4:10 gears be able to spin the 35's?
power isn't the problem, gearing is. And as already pointed out, you can't gear deep enough with your axles to run 35s in the power band of the engine. 4.88s would work for 33s (which is possible), but for 35s you'd probably want 5.38s....which isn't possible with your current axles.
 

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Not even a Rubicon would do well with 35" tires and 4.10 gearing. ;)
From my reading the only way you could run 35's on the rubi without regearing is with the manual without significant loss. Is that true?
 

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From my reading the only way you could run 35's on the rubi without regearing is with the manual without significant loss. Is that true?
The automatic has 2-3X greater low-end torque so it would definitely be far better starting from a stop and offroad. On the highway, either could be prevented from shifting into overdrive to raise the rpms enough so it wouldn't be too bad.
 

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The automatic has 2-3X greater low-end torque so it would definitely be far better starting from a stop and offroad. On the highway, either could be prevented from shifting into overdrive to raise the rpms enough so it wouldn't be too bad.
I assumed the manual was better due to the per say "granny low" of first gear.
 

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THe automatic's torque converter gives what is in effect an infinitely low 1st gear ratio that will go just as slow as you need it to without it stalling. :)
 

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My original dealer sticker lists Heavy Duty Dana 44/226mm Rear Axle 3.73 Axle Ratio. Would I need to re-gear to run 33 x 10.50 15 tires? Thanks.
 

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My original dealer sticker lists Heavy Duty Dana 44/226mm Rear Axle 3.73 Axle Ratio. Would I need to re-gear to run 33 x 10.50 15 tires? Thanks.
Nobody HAS to regear. It's a choice. If you feel your jeep is underpowered, than regearing is what you need to do.
 

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My original dealer sticker lists Heavy Duty Dana 44/226mm Rear Axle 3.73 Axle Ratio. Would I need to re-gear to run 33 x 10.50 15 tires? Thanks.
As said, regearing isn't something you NEED to do. Just like you don't NEED to look both ways before crossing a busy street.

Putting larger tires on your jeep changes the overall gear ratio. Larger diameter tires travel a longer distance per one revolution. It changes the RPM's the engine turns at any given speed, specifically lowering the RPMs. Lowering the RPM's significantly deduces the point on the torque curve where 65mph or 75mph is...basically asking the engine to use less torque to turn bigger, heavier tires to maintain any given speed. That doesn't work too well, and the engine will feel very underpowered and even bog down. You regear to put the engine back in its powerband.
 

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Personally, I would not install 33" tires onto a TJ without regearing. Saying it's a choice is like saying you have a choice on whether or not to visit the dentist to have a problem with your teeth taken care of. It may be a personal choice but...
 

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THe automatic's torque converter gives what is in effect an infinitely low 1st gear ratio that will go just as slow as you need it to without it stalling. :)
Not being argumentative but trying to lear, then why is there a huge difference in crawl ratio of a manual to automatic? The numbericall higher the better correct? That's achieved with the manual.
 

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The raw ratio of an automatic transmission's first gear doesn't take into account how the torque converter works. The torque converter slips until you give it gas which means you can crawl at .01 mph without stalling the engine. Try slowing a jeep down with a manual transmission even close to that speed or even below a couple mph and it will stall if you do not step down on the clutch. An automatic transmission's torque converter give us what is in effect an infinitely low first gear ratio. With an automatic, you can crawl at any speed from 0 mph
on up without stalling the engine. The torque converter gives what is in effect an infinitely high crawl ratio. :)
 

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im glad i dont need to go 0 mph with my jeep, im fine with my 410 and being able to do 60 in 4th still, it may be a dog, but so was my 66 bronco with the 170 and the 3 speed but i didnt mind, i didnt drive it to speed away at every stop sign.
 
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