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Discussion Starter #61
Both my new carrier (eaton true trak) and my new rear d44 ring gear have both hole size options. Obviously I'd like to use the 1/2" over the 7/16", however the 1/2" bolt looks to be too long and will bottom out in the ring gear, or be a very precise fit otherwise. The 7/16 bolts are shorter and thread into ring gear with as much meat as the carrier itself.

Should I:
Try 1/2" ?
Go with 7/16" and don't look back?
Use Both??
Try to find shorter bolts 1/2?



Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Ok... Now I know why the job is so expensive...I get it now... Salt belted vehicles, everything is rustbonded.. Anyhow, she's still on jackstands hopefully will finish the rear this week....

The 1/2 ring bolts worked perfectly btw....

That said, step by step it's coming together nicely.... Here's where I'm at now. I am going to increase pinion depth by 0.01" and try again... probably Wednesday

Opinions please!
 

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I think that pattern looks just fine. what's the B/L? Some will say it should be perfectly center, others will say favor the toe on the drive side. I mixed a little gas with the gear marking compound to thin it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Thank you. I may run it then. I wasn't sure if it was a little to high to the top/face....

B/L is at .007 which is directly on the lower parameter of my huge .007-.009 range. They feel good and smooth.

I think I was confusing drive and coast yesterday amidst my exhaustion. Drive is the convex side which did look better.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Success. Well the rear anyhow.

Everything took longer than expected, however end result seems great. What a difference. My engine will barely ever lug again.

I will do the front in the week to come. My joints need some healing.

I replaced my rear pads, rotors, and e-brake hardware. My Calipers needed work to ensure smooth sliding again.... more time is all. Of course everything gets painted and anti-siezed in the process. Both my driveshafts were rust bonded nicely. They get a healthy dose of antisieze where they meet now. Well the rear, the front is in my basement getting painted as 4x4 with mismatched gear ratios would be quite the experiment!

E-brake works great, but it seems the throw needs to be shortened. They are adjusted to almost touching so I believe I need to work the inside part of the center console to get more tension, less slack. Don't need much.

For the front I need to get the axle up higher on the 6t-ton stands for ease of body positioning. I contemplate removing it, but it would be a bear to get that pinion preload without it attached to the Jeep. I feel i would have difficulty stopping the housing from rotating, not the yoke. I'll do my research, as I need to add more bumpstop (gotta remove springs to do so )anyhow, now would be the time.
 

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I didn't see it listed here but you have to re-prog with a Pro-cal or something or you could end up in limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Yes for sure!, I used procal to change gears to 4.88 prior to driving. Truly a joy to drive now...

However, now I can notice the delay of the fuel injection... I can see how people like pedal commander and such. I never noticed it before much with the 3.21 gears, it just blended in with the engine bog I guess. No bogging now, nice to use all my gears!

Still can't back-up with clutch engaged though, still way too fast.... 1st is a crawl, but Rev is stupid fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Starting the front..... Hubs are frozen (rusted) to the axles..... Both wheel sensors snapped inside the hubs.

Are the hub/bearings heat safe to take a little heat (MAP Torch) to help separate? If I ever need unit bearings I'll need new axles too.... 2013 72k. Damn new england winters.

This is why re-gear quotes are so high here..... Anyhow, got everything out, needle cleaned the C's and repainted them.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
gotta love New England! Just think how easy mechanics have it in the Southern States!
You're not kidding!!! Axles bonded to the hubs.... Might have to leave em that way and plan moving forward.... I'll run em until they go (axle or hub9 upgrade as a unit then I guess.....

It took about an hour of air-chisel a side to get them to separate from the knuckle. My hands still vibrating! I didn't like the turn the wheel idea, I didn't want to snap a bolt in there...... Fun times!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Hub's been soaking overnight... after work I will attempt to use the 20-ton press to push the axle tip out of the hub is the plan....
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I ordered 2 new hubs.... Now without concern of 'damaging' those old rusty doggers, I can use heat and press out the axles without worry of the bearings longevity... and I don't have to deal with removing the ABS sensors...

I'm going to stick the entire spline into a bottle of anti-sieze prior to re-install!
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Well, 20-Ton press had nothing for the drivers side front axle. Still frozen, soaking in 50/50 ATF/Acetone solution. I was able to apply a little heat to the passenger side and the harbor freigh 8" puller was able to free it. The threads stripped on the other one.

I had my front axle up on 6-ton jack stands, however I needed droop for the case spreader to clear the track-bar bracket, so I needed to put my 6-tons on the frame on the side, and able to get enough droop. Was hoping for a better work angle than before....

I needed to put in some 2" bump-stops anyhow, so I pulled the springs and completely removed everything off the axle except the loose upper and lower control arms, needle-blasted the entire axle to metal and painted with harbor freight 'chassis and grille' paint. A nice gloss finish with an epoxy cure.

At least when I return to it after work today It looks 100% better! Pics to come...

I ended up picking up the Earthquake XT 3/8 ratchet which is a super nice tool! Makes quick work! Somereason I never used my air ratchet all too much, but I see myself using this one alot. Variable speed is nice. Very nice tool.

Have new Jounces and unit bearings arriving next week. Still debating to use the olds or not. I have to drill out the ABS sensor, and clean them up, but they seem solid with 72k miles on them. I may use them, and save the others for spares, as with 2 JK's, I'll use them eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Wow. Lots of work. You’ll definitely feel accomplished when it’s all done. 👍🏻
Yes, hopefully!! Crappy weather sat morning, so I pulled the carrier and pinion so when I get home later I have a few hours of inside work assembling the new ring n pinion on the power trax pro mechanical lsd carrier.

short axle still bonded to hub. Tried more heat last night. Sometimes the heat works as it cools. Different pieces of metal heat and cool at different times. This is what breaks free the rust bonds. Harbor freight replaced the broken 8” puller for free. Will try again today.
Front side is already much more pleasant to work on as the offset pumpkin makes it possible to work on it from the wheel well instead of crawling underneath in the middle like the rear. My back is thankful!!
 

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Hopefully my hubs come off with no drama. They have been removed every 2 years I have owned the vehicle. First time when I installed sleeves, second time for gears including new ball joints and now changing ball joints, u-joints and unit bearing. In the case of hubs anti-seize on the hub splines and machined surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Hopefully my hubs come off with no drama. They have been removed every 2 years I have owned the vehicle. First time when I installed sleeves, second time for gears including new ball joints and now changing ball joints, u-joints and unit bearing. In the case of hubs anti-seize on the hub splines and machined surface.
I'd think they will. I pretty sure mine have never been apart since manufacture 2012-13.... WeI also live in the worst salt-belt area, or one of... LIquid magnesium chloride they spray on the roads the night before it snows/ices... This stuff is nasty. I intentionally don't drive on the high-ways as this creates a mist-like aerosol effect of the salt/magnesium chloride.. it gets EVERYWHERE.....

Lol it snowed this morning here.... not enough to treat the roads but still... what a joke :)

I will be sure to cake antisieze all over this as I do everything I re-assemble!!!!! I wonder if copper anti-sieze is better here than aluminum, or if it doesn't really matter........ I have both, usually use copper around the brakes where heat is involved, aluminum on everything else....
 
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