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I am going to look for marine anti-seize today. I understand it is about the best thing you can use if I can find it.
 

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Hopefully my hubs come off with no drama. They have been removed every 2 years I have owned the vehicle. First time when I installed sleeves, second time for gears including new ball joints and now changing ball joints, u-joints and unit bearing. In the case of hubs anti-seize on the hub splines and machined surface.
Last time I had mine off I greased them up pretty well... ALL OVER... so they SHOULD come out when I do my regear. I bought new ones with my gear purcahse just in case though!
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Last time I had mine off I greased them up pretty well... ALL OVER... so they SHOULD come out when I do my regear. I bought new ones with my gear purcahse just in case though!
I was able to get the shorty axle separated.... Eventually came out by having the 8" HF puller attached (use anti-sieze on puller threads too!) by heating the hub surface to 700 degrees (eyeball), and hammering on the puller bolt with my brass mini-sledge, then impact the puller, hammer, impact, hammer, impact etc, while quirting short blasts of water on the axle to keep that cooler....

cleaned the axles up, removed the plastic guides and deflectors. I'm putting outer seals on. I see no reason not to. I am going to clean the inside of my axle and spray a mist of FF inside the tube. Paint my sanded axle (maybe aluminum just because I have it already and can easily hit it with black later),

20 years ago I worked in a garage (sticker guy! & tow truck driver) and my friend still to today was trying to free a ball joint or something with a torch (on the bench) and it popped and shot into his knee and ****ed it up pretty good! I have great respect for anything under tension (like the press!) or torched things with sealed grease and bearings (HUBS?)... scary.

My hubs still feel okay, and look decent after cleaning them up. If I can remove the broken abs sensor easily, I think I'm going to run them. They are probably better then the ones I bought, who knows they could have another 75k on them...
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I am going to run the new hubs after the abuse I just put these old ones through. I also can see some rubber in there on the new one, which I surely destroyed with the torch... I didn't think much of it at the time, but I think when I took one of my axle nuts off there was some greenish liquid. I though tit odd because there is no source nearby.. thinking diff fluid...... must be bearing grease. In the trash they go.
 

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$160 is piece of mind. Did they give you trouble coming off the knuckle? Usually that's harder than removing shafts from hubs...
 

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Discussion Starter #86
$160 is piece of mind. Did they give you trouble coming off the knuckle? Usually that's harder than removing shafts from hubs...
Yep, siezed pretty good. Air chisel about an hour a side to get them off... only needed the torch to get the frozen axles out of them. In the trash they go! I was able to order a set of hubs for $120.00....
 

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Are you checking it with the bearing caps fully torqued and with some friction/resistance on the pinion as you turn the ring gear?
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Are you checking it with the bearing caps fully torqued and with some friction/resistance on the pinion as you turn the ring gear?
Hi yes, and I hold a ringgear bolt with a wrench for resistance...


Contact pattern looks to me like it needs a bit more pinion shim
Ok great! Thanks! I will examine this a bit more. You believe a shim between the pinion head and inside bearing would help the contact be closer to the toe?
 

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Ok great! Thanks! I will examine this a bit more. You believe a shim between the pinion head and inside bearing would help the contact be closer to the toe?
Yes, try adding .005" to the pinion and it will push the contact pattern on the drive side, closer to the toe. This might even tighten up B/L with current carrier shim stack. Also, take 2 or 3 B/L readings across the ring gear. Average them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Yes, try adding .005" to the pinion and it will push the contact pattern on the drive side, closer to the toe. This might even tighten up B/L with current carrier shim stack. Also, take 2 or 3 B/L readings across the ring gear. Average them out.
Ok! Thank you so much! my BL spec is .009 -. 011 so I'm there now. If it tightens it below the specced .009 I will need to re-adjust my carrier again to BL spec, and re-check pattern? Sounds good. Will keep you updated.
 

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yes. You're on the right path. If by adding .005" to the pinion and your B/L is below .009", move a couple thou from ring gear side of carrier to the other side and check B/L again.
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Ok in order to add just .005 I had to create a shim stack and ended up adding a few thou more but ended up with this pattern after getting backlash now set to 9. Went from 11-7 by adding the .005. had to manipulate my carrier shims of course....
Look better to me!
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I'd run it.
That looks pretty good to me.
Thanks guys. I'm happy with it as well. Glad I took @sierradmax direction of increasing pinion shim .005. I'm still buttoning things up, going well though.

Having trouble getting the poly jounce upper bump-stops in with a jack and wood. I bought some 1/2 allthread that should get them in. Will try after work today.

Hopefully I'll be test driving it later tonight.

The crush sleeve was tougher than I remembered on the rear. Possibly because I had to lift instead of going down, as I was working from the drivers side wheel well. When I first did the final assembly the crush sleeve got resistance and still had like 3/8 inch of in-out play in the pinion. I thought I made a mistake at first, but I kept on crushing the thing (well over 300lbs constant pressure). Slowly rotating it bit by bit - and checking to make sure pinion bearings were not too tight. Eventually it snugged right up, and I kept going until I got my preload around 30-35.

Outer axle seals went in nicely, I grinded a bit of meat away prior to install where the grease fittings are as I've heard interference problems. RTV'd em in, and they grease nicely; made putting in the axles easy as there was a pivot point to allow perfect alignment with the inner seal. There is no water getting in these, it would have to push past the seal, the axle, and the grease that pushes out of the seal. Plus they look cool.

More pics to come soon, it's all coming together nicely!
 

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After reading all this I am probably going to do away with the crush sleeve in favor of crush sleeve eliminator. I think I have a leaking seal on my front diff and if so I am going to address it hear shortly. If I had a lift a crush sleeve would not be so bad but working on you back and trying to get 300 ft lbs is next to impossible for me.
 

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After reading all this I am probably going to do away with the crush sleeve in favor of crush sleeve eliminator. I think I have a leaking seal on my front diff and if so I am going to address it hear shortly. If I had a lift a crush sleeve would not be so bad but working on you back and trying to get 300 ft lbs is next to impossible for me.
I dunno... this guy makes the crush sleeve look pretty easy:
 

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