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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From a mechanical to consumer standpoint what does it involve? Do I show up at my local shop with a box of shiny new metal bits, or is there some more homework behind that? Right now I have 3.73's (automatic) . I plan to also lift for 37's
 

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From a mechanical to consumer standpoint what does it involve? Do I show up at my local shop with a box of shiny new metal bits, or is there some more homework behind that? Right now I have 3.73's (automatic) . I plan to also lift for 37's
Not sure what exactly you mean?
Most shops generally like to order certain brands of parts they're experienced with however most will let you buy whatever brand you want and simply do the install for you.
Master rebuild kits, new ring and pinions, gear oil, and silicone or lube locker gaskets are about all they'll use other than their tools and knowledge.
Generally 4 hours per axle seems to be a rough average for labor
 

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Re-gearing is a major under-taking. I would try to impress on you that you really need to study and decide what and more importantly; WHY you want to do this. I get the 37" tires but there is soooo much more to consider.

Is this a mall crawler -Daily Driver that might go off road once a year?
A trailer Queen that is hauled from mountain top to mountain top?
Mild trails or hard core stuff?

Gas mileage is always a strong consideration too now with todays prices.

Going from 32" to 37" tires, have you considered the extra braking you'll need?

Eitherway I hope you enjoy the new ride. A 4" suspension lift with 33" tires and a lunch box locker was enough for me. I kept my gas prices manageable with a re gear to 4.10.
 

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From a mechanical to consumer standpoint what does it involve? Do I show up at my local shop with a box of shiny new metal bits, or is there some more homework behind that? Right now I have 3.73's (automatic) . I plan to also lift for 37's
2 door right ! D30 or D44 up front ? How much lift are looking to go ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
D) all of the above

It's my DD but in a nutshell everything that was listed are all things I plan to do ( haul stuff, off-road, flex on curbs)

As with all new jeep owners I guess it's a prospect of being a huge project ^_^

And since I want to go with bigger tires and tow things without butchering the little mpg that I have I figured that regearing would be the first of many steps.

As for lift high I'm leaning towards a 4 inch lcg from teraflex/fox shocks.

As for my front axle it's s Dana 30.

I've done some very mild research and if anything I'd like to go with something in the range of a ratio above 5.

Let me know if I sound insane yet lol!
 

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The D30 is likely your limiting factor when doing a regear. It can only accommodate a certain diameter of ring (4.56 or 4.88, if I recall correctly). You may want to look at upgrading to a D44 if you want to go much higher than that. Durability with the D44 would also be better if you plan to do hard core off-road driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The D30 is likely your limiting factor when doing a regear. It can only accommodate a certain diameter of ring (4.56 or 4.88, if I recall correctly). You may want to look at upgrading to a D44 if you want to go much higher than that. Durability with the D44 would also be better if you plan to do hard core off-road driving.
Does this mean I would have to buy a completely new axle assembly?
 

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Does this mean I would have to buy a completely new axle assembly?
No. You can go as low as 5.13. The ring and pinion is the difference between the D30 (smaller/weaker) and D44, all other points are essentially equal strength-wise.

Instead of going in depth here, I am going to recommend that you do a LOT more homework here before you take on going to 37's on your rig. There are a lot of considerations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In general I have a pretty good idea of what it's gonna take, I guess there was a lot more detail than I thought lol, is there maybe a kit to convert a 30 in to a 44?
 

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In general I have a pretty good idea of what it's gonna take, I guess there was a lot more detail than I thought lol, is there maybe a kit to convert a 30 in to a 44?
No there's no kit to convert, your going to need double Cardin drive shafts with that much lift also.
Another thing to is if your thinking of putting a locker up front that will be even harder on that D30
With 5:13's. There are guy's out there that run like you want but not sure how much breakage they
Deal with !.
 

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No. You can go as low as 5.13. The ring and pinion is the difference between the D30 (smaller/weaker) and D44, all other points are essentially equal strength-wise.
That's true for the factory Rubicon D44. It's essentially a D30 with a D44 center.

Aftermarket D44s are night and day stronger than the factory unit. And they don't really cost much more. You can get a Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 with gears and a locker installed for a very reasonable price. Swap over a few bits from the stock D30 and you're ready for 37's in the front. Throw in a regear (with optional locker) on the rear 44 and you're good to go.
 

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In general I have a pretty good idea of what it's gonna take, I guess there was a lot more detail than I thought lol, is there maybe a kit to convert a 30 in to a 44?
I recommend you searching the forum for threads about what is needed to go to 37's, as well as the newbies guide to lifting your JK (which is stickied).

Then, after careful study, start asking questions. There is a lot of variables involved with what you're saying you want to do. Being educated is both responsible and will save you potential hassles and money down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I recommend you searching the forum for threads about what is needed to go to 37's, as well as the newbies guide to lifting your JK (which is stickied). Then, after careful study, start asking questions. There is a lot of variables involved with what you're saying you want to do. Being educated is both responsible and will save you potential hassles and money down the road.
Long story short would I need to buy a new front axle?
 

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Long story short would I need to buy a new front axle?
Given everything you need to do to your stock D30 to beef it up to handle 37's, yes.

For the stock axle you need gears, a locker, a weld on truss kit, chrome-molly axle shafts, heavy duty diff cover (to reduce housing flex that leads to ring and pinion damage), ball joints, and probably a bit more. Even then, the ring and pinion are still weak.

And all that money you spend will get you most of the way to an aftermarket axle that is inherently stronger than the modified D30.

Why spend money twice? Why not do it right the first time?
 

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Given everything you need to do to your stock D30 to beef it up to handle 37's, yes.

For the stock axle you need gears, a locker, a weld on truss kit, chrome-molly axle shafts, heavy duty diff cover (to reduce housing flex that leads to ring and pinion damage), ball joints, and probably a bit more. Even then, the ring and pinion are still weak.

And all that money you spend will get you most of the way to an aftermarket axle that is inherently stronger than the modified D30.

Why spend money twice? Why not do it right the first time?
It can be done right on a D30. But the OP isn't the right person to try it, IMO.
 

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Not right away no
My buddy has been running 37" km2s on a Dana 30 with 4.10's with sleeves and gussets for 6 months. No issues so far, he knows it won't last forever but it buys you some time
 

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dana 30 will take 5.13 gears which are way too tall for a set of 37s behind the 3.6 and the new auto trans.

for 37s stop at 4.88s (decently big enough in a dana 30 where the 5.13 looks like a thimble)

truss and gusset is highly recommended for the front.

fully weld the rear center to keep the axle tube from spinning is another good idea.

balljoints. I run the alloy ones for 35k now and they are still tight.

You DO NOT need chromo shafts but there are issues that will arise at some point that will want to upgrade.

if your rear drums start squeaking you probably have a bent flange. go chromos if that happens.

fronts i recommend tacking the caps on the u joints. 2011 up have a beefier knuckle and if you can keep the axle shaft from shooting out the cap then it will hold for a long time. Carry the tools to pull it when wheeling if it does break and you can drive home then and order the expensive shafts to replace it.
 

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and if you look at the numbers here
Gear Ratio Calculator

and compare the gearing differences between a stock sport and 4.88s behind the dodge wa580 transmission youll notice that 4.88 is actually too tall to maintain highway speed efficiency.

on 4.56 you will turn 2400 rpms at 70
on 4.88 you will turn 2550 rpms at 70
on 5.13 you will turn 2700 rpms at 70

factory 3.73 turn 2207 rpms at 70
rubicon 4.10s turn 2400 rpms at 70

all behind the auto trans.
 
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