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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I'm wiring some off-road lights and I'm putting in a relay but I'm confused on where two wires go I'm using the diagram below ok so if #30 on the relay house to the battery then where does the supply go on the switch
 

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You can connect the Supply wire directly to the battery but having once done that and not liking how it worked, I suggest you instead connect the Supply lead to the "high beam" wire that connects to the high beam wire for either of your headlights. That will require the high beams be on for the new driving lights to work. It's not as much for safety as it is for your convenience... though it is related to safety too.

That way when you encounter oncoming traffic with your brights and driving lights on, all you have to do to shut them both off simultaneously is to flick your high beams off. So the driving lights will only work when the high beams are on.

I first didn't think I'd like it like that but once I started encountering oncoming traffic and had to do a mad dash for two different switches to shut them both off, I rewired them as suggested. Much more convenient and it prevents blinding oncoming drivers longer than a split second.

You can use a test light or meter to determine which of the three wires connected to the headlight connector is the high beam wire. You can of course eliminate the black ground wire from the three as a possibility. The 'Supply' wire doesn't draw much current so it'll be fine connected to the high beam wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You can connect the Supply wire directly to the battery but having once done that, I suggest you instead connect the Supply lead to the "high beam" wire that connects to the high beam wire for either of your headlights. That will require the high beams be on for the new driving lights to work. It's not as much for safety as it is for your convenience... though it is related to safety too. That way when you encounter oncoming traffic with your brights and driving lights on, all you have to do to shut them both off simultaneously is to flick your high beams off. So the driving lights will only work when the high beams are on. I first didn't think I'd like it like that but once I started encountering oncoming traffic and had to do a mad dash for two different switches to shut them both off, I rewired them as suggested. Much more convenient and it prevents blinding oncoming drivers longer than a split second.
Thanks for the reply I really won't be using them on the road though so is there another place I can connect the supply to safely and if it comes to it we're is the wire for the high beam switch also if I connect them to the high beam does that mean the high beam will have to be on for the light to work

Still new to the wiring
 

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You can connect the Supply lead directly to pin 30 of the relay which goes to the battery if you like. That way you can turn the driving lights on any time. But they'll stay on if you don't remember to turn them off... which is not really all that likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can connect the Supply lead directly to pin 30 of the relay which goes to the battery if you like. That way you can turn the driving lights on any time. But they'll stay on if you don't remember to turn them off... which is not really all that likely.
Ok thank you I appreciate the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok one more question when connecting the supply to #30 on the relay do I splice the supply wire and the wire that connects to the battery then connect it to the relay?
So confused!!!
 

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Ok one more question when connecting the supply to #30 on the relay do I splice the supply wire and the wire that connects to the battery then connect it to the relay?
So confused!!!
You can splice the white wire (in the picture) to terminal #30, the positive post on the battery, or anywhere along the yellow wire...it doesn't matter as long as you have the 3 amp fuse in the white wire.

You might want to consider splicing it to the switched pigtail that hangs out on the right side of the fuse box behind your glove box. That way, you can just stick the 3 amp fuse in the appropriate fuse holder in the fuse box, and turning off your ignition switch will also turn off your lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You can splice the white wire (in the picture) to terminal #30, the positive post on the battery, or anywhere along the yellow wire...it doesn't matter as long as you have the 3 amp fuse in the white wire. You might want to consider splicing it to the switched pigtail that hangs out on the right side of the fuse box behind your glove box. That way, you can just stick the 3 amp fuse in the appropriate fuse holder in the fuse box, and turning off your ignition switch will also turn off your lights.
But wouldn't splicing the supply wire (white) to the battery wire (yellow) mean that the supply wire won't be running on the relay it would be pretty much running directly from the battery and how would I wire the supply into the fuse panel
 

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The Supply wire is providing 12v to the switch which in turn provides 12v to the relay's control coil when the switch is turned on. It doesn't matter where the Supply wire gets its 12v from. You can insert the 3 amp fuse into the Supply wire with an inline fuse holder.

This type of connector is how you can connect both the battery and Supply wires to connector #30 on the relay...

 

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But wouldn't splicing the supply wire (white) to the battery wire (yellow) mean that the supply wire won't be running on the relay it would be pretty much running directly from the battery and how would I wire the supply into the fuse panel
All you're doing is supplying power to the switch, which will supply power to the coil in the relay (trigger). The contact in the relay is supplying all of the power to the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know I keep bringing this up but I haven't had a chance to finish wiring the lights till yesterday but now I run into the problem of every time I turn the lights on within minutes the 25a fuse burns out and idk where the problem is I double checked my wiring and everything looks good could it be that 4 lights are wired to one fuse??
Thanks in advance
 

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Four 150 watt lights would draw something like 35 amps off the top of my my head IIRC. A relay should be limited to two lights of that size.

Only you can say whether four lights are connected to one fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Four 150 watt lights would draw something like 35 amps off the top of my my head IIRC. A relay should be limited to two lights of that size. Only you can say whether four lights are connected to one fuse.
So I should rewire the lights so it can have two relays and I wired all four lights together then wired like it showed in the picture with two lights
 

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How many watts are your lights, what wire size are you using, and what is the size (amp rating) of the relay you are using?
 
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