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So, blew my clutch in the middle of the road and had it towed to my normal mechanic. He said it needed a new clutch and remachined the flywheel and put the clutch kit in.

Well, I've been reading up and now know he wasn't supposed to do that. :(

It's got a bounce when starting from first and less resistance. What do I do now? Take it back and ask him to fix it for free? I would rather not have to pay for a new clutch...
 

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So, blew my clutch in the middle of the road and had it towed to my normal mechanic. He said it needed a new clutch and remachined the flywheel and put the clutch kit in.

Well, I've been reading up and now know he wasn't supposed to do that. :(

It's got a bounce when starting from first and less resistance. What do I do now? Take it back and ask him to fix it for free? I would rather not have to pay for a new clutch...
Take it back am have him properly concave the flywheel (if that is even possible) or replace it.
 

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So, blew my clutch in the middle of the road and had it towed to my normal mechanic. He said it needed a new clutch and remachined the flywheel and put the clutch kit in.

Well, I've been reading up and now know he wasn't supposed to do that. :(

It's got a bounce when starting from first and less resistance. What do I do now? Take it back and ask him to fix it for free? I would rather not have to pay for a new clutch...
Yea everywhere I've read is to not machine the flywheel because of the concave it has. But to instead just replace it.
 

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So this is something that the mechanic should be held accountable for?
Technically yes, but before I did that, I would consider that the the "less resistance" you feel is not the flywheel, but is somewhat normal of a new clutch. The "bounce" (not sure exactly what that means), if it means a shudder when taking off in first gear could be a bad transmission mount.

You are right that a Jeep flywheel should not be machined (the fsm says clean them up by hand or if damaged, replace them), but most mechanics in small shops are used to resurfacing flywheels, and few have or read specific fsm's for each make and model of vehicle they work on.

It's your call..the flywheel shouldn't have been machined, but then, if the issue you are experiencing can be fixed without pulling the transmission again, it shouldn't be the end of the world either.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Technically yes, but before I did that, I would consider that the the "less resistance" you feel is not the flywheel, but is somewhat normal of a new clutch. The "bounce" (not sure exactly what that means), if it means a shudder when taking off in first gear could be a bad transmission mount. You are right that a Jeep flywheel should not be machined (the fsm says clean them up by hand or if damaged, replace them), but most mechanics in small shops are used to resurfacing flywheels, and few have or read specific fsm's for each make and model of vehicle they work on. It's your call..the flywheel shouldn't have been machined, but then, if the issue you are experiencing can be fixed without pulling the transmission again, it shouldn't be the end of the world either.
It jumps up and down really fast as I'm releasing the jeep. Not a clunk or rattle, but the whole front end jumps quickly, and ever gear up to third does it, but it gets less as Igbo up in gears
 

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It jumps up and down really fast as I'm releasing the jeep. Not a clunk or rattle, but the whole front end jumps quickly, and ever gear up to third does it, but it gets less as Igbo up in gears
Could be that you're just used to driving a jeep with a slipping clutch, and now it doesn't. Why not call your mechanic and let him know what it's doing and let him know that you have learned that the jeep flywheel is manufactured with a slight dome shape that machining flattens, and it is not supposed to be machined per Chrysler. Just see what he recommends. He may offer to tear it back down.

Try driving it for a few days and see if it's still an issue.
 

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Why does the flywheel have a dome on it? The friction plate is flat, so shouldn't the flywheel be flat as well. I have built many engines and have never come across a domed flywheel. What's the reason for it?
 

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So this is something that the mechanic should be held accountable for?
Per the FSM (2004):

Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour and machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180 grit emery or with surface grinding equipment. Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation; it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.

As recommended, let the mechanic know the problems you're experiencing and mention what you now found in the Factory Service Manual.
 
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