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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So... I've been looking at some of the portable air compressors. I think for the amount of offroading I will do the installation of a full air system would be overkill.

The majority of the Portables that claim to be able to air up a tire in 4 minutes or so all use battery clips. I was thinking a good solution to not having to pop the hood every time would be to install remote battery terminals like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qcr-57-709?seid=srese1&gclid=CKHRheDj8bgCFWho7AodGUYAIg

Anyone ever seen or tried to do this for a similar purpose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where would you mount the remote terminals? It doesn't look like it'd last long outside or in a wheel well.
I was thinking somewhere on the passenger side. I've seen air outlets bolted to the kick panels there so I was thinking the remote terminals would work pretty well there. Easier to open a door than to have to pop the hood. Even easier if the doors are off. =)

I was thinking another good place would be in the cargo area. Technically you could also jump the car from there as well so it would give more options with a situation like that.

My challenger has the battery in the trunk and remote posts in the engine bay. It's actually a nice feature.
 

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Just wheel with your Hood off to. Problem solved!! Also no need for heat reduction hood if you have no hood.. Bam I just saved you like 1500 dollars.

But yes that could be a good idea for instance most tractor trucks have remotely located cables for jump off purposes. Just be sure to put some decent fuses inline and as close to the battery as possible.
 

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The idea makes sense.

If you don't use the tool storage area under the cargo floor, that would be an ideal place for it. Covered up and easily accessible when needed.

I wouldn't put it in an unprotected area without a substantial safety cover and/or a battery cutoff switch. It would be too easy to have a passenger or cargo accidentally short out the battery, with subsequent injury or fire.

I'd go with at least 2/0 AWG cable, due to the distance from the original battery and the inherent electrical resistance in that length of cable. It would also allow for jumping the battery from the remote location.
 

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I would only trust something like this with extremely high-quality cabling and an inline fuse to help protect against shorts located near the connector to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would only trust something like this with extremely high-quality cabling and an inline fuse to help protect against shorts located near the connector to the battery.
My first guess would be that I could look up the harness for my Challenger and see what they used. I've never actually traced the wire. Since the Challenger is longer than the Jeep I would think you could possibly also scavenge the cables from a wrecked one in a bone yard.
 

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If you want to run remote battery terminals to the back of your Jeep, you don't want scavenged cables. Keep in mind that auto engineers use the minimum sized cable and wire possible for a task to save money and to up the fuel economy. Cables are heavy and every ounce counts these days.

I learned the hard way that Chrysler designed rear battery terminals in the Dodge Magnum because the engine space was so cramped that if it needed a jump start, it couldn't be done from the front of the vehicle with the jumper cables we had.

If you opt to do it, get a custom designed and built battery cable. I have used this guy in the past and his product and work are first rate.

Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV

Read the tech area to learn what you need for your application and if you don't see what you need or want, contact him and he can probably build it. He can even put on custom battery lugs that allow for power accessory mounting from the rear of the vehicle for lights, compressors, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you want to run remote battery terminals to the back of your Jeep, you don't want scavenged cables. Keep in mind that auto engineers use the minimum sized cable and wire possible for a task to save money and to up the fuel economy. Cables are heavy and every ounce counts these days.

I learned the hard way that Chrysler designed rear battery terminals in the Dodge Magnum because the engine space was so cramped that if it needed a jump start, it couldn't be done from the front of the vehicle with the jumper cables we had.

If you opt to do it, get a custom designed and built battery cable. I have used this guy in the past and his product and work are first rate.

Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV

Read the tech area to learn what you need for your application and if you don't see what you need or want, contact him and he can probably build it. He can even put on custom battery lugs that allow for power accessory mounting from the rear of the vehicle for lights, compressors, etc.
Thanks for the link.

Per the "scavenged" cables... My point was more that (at least my SRT8) everything on it is very well made and the cables for the battery SHOULD survive. In the case of my Charger and my Challenger (which are the same platform as your Magnum) part of the reason they put the battery in the trunk was because someone finally figured out that putting a battery next to a giant heat source was bad for the battery. More than just MOPAR have moved the batteries to the rear end of the vehicles these days. (it also helps with weight distribution a bit. Not that you would think that a battery's weight would matter much, but... like you said, 'every ounce counts.')

As a firefighter... I prefer the battery under the hood... It's easy/quick to find and when you need to get the bolt cutters out to make the car safe... it's easier under the hood than digging through a trunk.
 

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If you're ever going to use the Remote Terminals for jumping the engine, I agree with oversizing the cable - use cable as heavy as good heavy jumper cables. Thinner cables will heat up, and voltage drop will effect the ability to get the engine started. The tougher part is to provide fuse protection. How much does the starter draw? A couple hundred amp fuse isn't easy to fit in line to the battery. And even if you do, and someone accidently shorts it out, you can still get a heck of an arc before the fuse opens up. Just think how much an arc welder does, often with around 100 amps! And be sure to route the cables away from any sharp edges.
 
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