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So I am new here and a new jeep owner I got a good deal on a 07 JK but it has a body lift on it and I want to put the body back down to normal. I have been reading on here to see what I can expect to run into but not much that I found went into detail. I have not looked yet but I understand the steering shaft may have and extension on it and the gas fill will have to loosened to get it back to normal. what about the radiator and or break lines and how do I tell if the engine mounts were done. Oh and will I have to get new mounts or is any part of whats on there original?? Thanks for the info.

Adam
 

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This could get tricky. Most do body lifts just to give a little more clearance for the tires. Some do body lifts so they can tuck the mechanicals a little higher into the frame. As a warning, I have never used a body lift and what follows is based entirely on my understanding (somewhere in the middle) of how vehicles are put together. I'm not a doctor, never played one on TV either but I did work as a mechanic for about 12 years.

Assuming it was done just for clearance, there shouldn't be too much in the way of changes to get it back to stock.

The steering and fuel filler neck are the two main ones.

Check the brake lines all the way from the master cylinder down to at least where they transition to the frame and possibly a little further just to make sure they are not tweaked in some weird way. Once they transition to the frame they shouldn't come back up to the body at any point.

Check for any extended linkage attached to the transmission and t-case shifters. The e-brake linkage may have been modified also.

The wiring harness should be good to go, just make sure that when you set it back down to stock that there is nothing pinched between body and frame.

The radiator and hoses should be fine also. Double check any other lines (AC going to the condenser, tranny cooler if it is an auto) that are in any way attached to the radiator.

In general, do a thorough check all the way around to find anything that transitions from the body to the frame and try to determine if it has been modified in any way.

As far as if any of the mechanicals were tucked, it might be worthwhile to take it to the dealer to verify that the motor and trans mounts are in fact factory parts.

As to the body mounts, it looks like the stock parts are still there (the rubber part just above the aluminum spacers) and they are riveted in so changing them would be more hassle than it's worth. Besides, they look like they are in pretty good shape. It would be a good idea to get factory bolts though. The bolts that are in place right now may only be partially threaded and may not have enough thread to get a good seat when you lower the body back down. Don't try to save money on this and use washers as spacers to get the bolt to tighten down either, those bolts are the only thing holding the body on.

Also (assuming you are doing this in your garage or driveway), I recommend at least four jack stands with one set as close as possible to each of the four corner body mounts as possible in the most secure way you can and possibly an extra two set in the middle. Starting from one end (once the old mounts are out of the way) turn the jack screws down by a quarter to half a turn to start with (for example FL to FR to ML to MR to RL to RR). It may be tedious but by making small movements from end to end, you have a better shot at the bolt holes lining up when the body settles back onto the mounts. I DON'T recommend placing the bolts into the mounts (using them as a guide) before everything is settled as they may be put into a bind.

If you've got access to a shop everything would be even better since you could use a two post lift to hold the weight of the body evenly which would make the whole letting it back down on the frame so much easier.

Again, this is how I would proceed based on what I know.

Best of luck.
 
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