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Hey guys,

I purchased some extenders and so far I haven't been able to remove the bolts that secure the frame to the floor. I have used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and I am cranking on it pretty hard but it won't budge. Are they using thread locker? Do I need to break out the impact? Thanks
 

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Most find that those bolts are on "robot tight"--whatever machine puts them on in the factory does so with a heck of a lot more muscle than mere mortals. I had to remove my front two bolts to slide a lock box under the seat and used an 18" breaker bar to good results, though even then I had to lean into the first few turns pretty firmly. If you're just using a typical 8" long home tool kit type of ratchet wrench, it's going to be really hard to generate enough torque.
 

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I recently had to remove my driver's seat to fix the riser bolt. One of the bolts was completely rusted through and another one had lost it's nut so the seat was just floating around. I hit it hard with PB Blaster two days in a row and then took the breaker bar to it. One of the bolts sheered off and had to be drilled out but the others came out pretty easily as long as I jerked/pushed on it a bit.
 

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I too had to use a breaker bar to remove these when installing a lock box under the seat. I also found that on both front seats (2 door) not all the bolts were tightened down all the way, which was super annoying until I figured out why my seats were so noisy.
 

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Hey guys,

I purchased some extenders and so far I haven't been able to remove the bolts that secure the frame to the floor. I have used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and I am cranking on it pretty hard but it won't budge. Are they using thread locker? Do I need to break out the impact? Thanks
A 3/8 impact is about my favorite tool besides the compressor on the other end of the hose. That is what i used to take that seat out.
 

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Breaker bar or impact should work

If you have neither and can't get it with a ratchet, use the closed end of a large monkey wrench for added leverage on the end of the ratchet.
 

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Installed another Bestop box Saturday. Zipped the bolts out with a 6pt 18mm impact socket and impact gun. If you don't have an air impact, put a breaker bar (or pipe) over a 1/2" ratchet.
 

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It can be done with a breaker bar. Its not easy. I used a breaker and "tapped" it with a rubber mallet when needed. Lots F bombs help too. As a side note I own an impact wrench now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies. Air impact did the trick. Wow are those bolts in there! I used a Snap-On 700ft/lb tool and it STILL had to bang on it for a few seconds before it broke loose! This is a brand new JK so no rust, just tight!
 

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Thanks for the replies. Air impact did the trick. Wow are those bolts in there! I used a Snap-On 700ft/lb tool and it STILL had to bang on it for a few seconds before it broke loose! This is a brand new JK so no rust, just tight!
lol...yup, I'd guess mine were at LEAST 100 ft-lbs. And that was pretty much just off the lot, like yours.
 

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Thanks I having the same problem stil havnt managed to get two out 18mm feels a bit loose on the bolt shouldn't it be imperial not metric?
 

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Mine required the long breaker bar and 18mm. It sure wasn't "55 ft/lbs".
 

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The torque spec is 45 ft lbs. I put a dab of anti seize on mine to aid in future removal.
 

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This is no help for the OP, but mine was easy. :whistling: The seat had already been removed once when the dealer had the Katzkin leather installed in my JKU, so the factory installed bolts were already "loosened up" for me. I only used a ratchet on the bolts to get my underseat storage lockbox installed.
 
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