Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have a 2014 Wrangler sport now running 35's and doing moderate to heavy wheeling with it (depending on who you ask).

Before I wheel it too hard I plan on reinforcing my axles with trusses and gussets for the C's, I am also regearing to 4.56 and installing lockers.

Now in order to save money on labor I plan on dropping both my axles and sandblasting/prepping them myself for the welding... then once they are welded and regeared I am going to paint them and reinstall.

I am fairly mechanically inclined... THIS is how my jeep sits now and I have done all the work myself.

The problem is I usually rely heavily on writeups online... I can't find anything online in regards to dropping the entire axle housings.

Does such thing exist? How big of a project will this be? I plan on disconnecting all the components to the axle and leaving the hardware hooked up inside for easily assembly/re-torque... I am mostly concerned with disconnect the rear parking brake, how easily is this done?

If anybody has any tips or input that would be great.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
53,757 Posts
It's pretty self explanatory. Just start disconnecting things.
Shocks
Brake lines
ABS lines
4 CA bolts
Track bar at the axle (tie up)
Drag link at the knuckle (tie up)
Swaybar links

Keep a jack under the axle and use it to roll it from under the jeep.

When you go to put everything back in. Leave all bolts loose. Get the tires back on and drop to the ground. Tighten everything with the jeeps weight on the axles.

Hope this helps .... A little :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's pretty self explanatory. Just start disconnecting things.
Shocks
Brake lines
ABS lines
4 CA bolts
Track bar at the axle (tie up)
Drag link at the knuckle (tie up)
Swaybar links

Keep a jack under the axle and use it to roll it from under the jeep.

When you go to put everything back in. Leave all bolts loose. Get the tires back on and drop to the ground. Tighten everything with the jeeps weight on the axles.

Hope this helps .... A little :D

Is it as easy as you say to disconnect the brake lines/emergency brake line?

That's what I'm most concerned about not having a quick way to disconnect those from the axle.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,955 Posts
I just replaced my buddies d30 with a D44 up front and as Kjeeper said it is easy but awkward and will take 2 people. No issues with brake lines or sensors the sensors just unplug from up behind the shock towers and the brake lines just unclip no need to remove or bleed. Just use wire to hold the calipers up out of the way. took us like 4 hours to remove and replace. It is easier to replace leaving the tires on so you can wheel it around. I think the parking brake in the rear has a disconnect so looks pretty easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,202 Posts
the rear ebrake cables are pretty simple to disconnect, its an S shaped hook, grab it with some pliers and it comes off. everything is captive so nothing falls off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Why disconnect the brake lines? Seams messy? Just un bolt the calipers and hang them from the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,202 Posts
Why disconnect the brake lines? Seams messy? Just un bolt the calipers and hang them from the frame.
he asked about the ebrake lines, they are mechanical and do not attach to the caliper
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
I agree with the rest, you can easily figure out the e-brake, there is a good write ups on project-JK that show how to remove the axles. These also show how to remove the e-brake since it's a step.

I have a few photos in my build thread where I swapped out both axles by myself. You can do it, all I had were 4 5 ton jack stands and 1 jack. You'll have to man handle them a little and you'll probably be very sore when your done, but don't be afraid of it as it is very simple.

Be sure you have a good torque wrench, appropriate sockets, blue & red locktite. You can find all the torque values online.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
108 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I agree with the rest, you can easily figure out the e-brake, there is a good write ups on project-JK that show how to remove the axles. These also show how to remove the e-brake since it's a step.

I have a few photos in my build thread where I swapped out both axles by myself. You can do it, all I had were 4 5 ton jack stands and 1 jack. You'll have to man handle them a little and you'll probably be very sore when your done, but don't be afraid of it as it is very simple.

Be sure you have a good torque wrench, appropriate sockets, blue & red locktite. You can find all the torque values online.
Thanks for the tips,

Where I'm at in Canada right now it's frigid so I haven't even gotten under the jeep to look.

I have all the tools, I will make sure to post pics once I'm done.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
JCDriller mentioned loctite...

What would require loctite?

Track bar?
The bolts on the drive shaft (JE REEL) & wheel adapters called for red locktite and all the suspension bolts got blue locktite, especially the RK and Synergy jam nuts. I realize that with proper torque it shouldn't be needed, I liked the added insurance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,202 Posts
I have a few photos in my build thread where I swapped out both axles by myself. You can do it, all I had were 4 5 ton jack stands and 1 jack. You'll have to man handle them a little and you'll probably be very sore when your done, but don't be afraid of it as it is very simple.
a furniture dolly works great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
799 Posts
Good info here. I'm about to install a lift, but I'm also going to weld on lower control arm skids and C-gussets. I'm thinking about just removing the front axle entirely so I can better weld everything. When I welded the rear control arm skids on the jeep, I cursed more than I wanted to laying on my side out of position trying to weld.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
U can also temporarily put the wheels back on to roll it back into position under your Jeep instead of scratching up your freshly painted axle trying to drag it into place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Pretty straight-forward operations. Get the rig up on jack stands. Pull the wheels. Remove the calipers via the caliper supports that mount to the hubs (front) or axle (rear). In front, remove the breather hose and the wires for the e-locker (if a Rubicon). Disconnect the drive shaft at the axle, the drag link and track bar. With the wheels installed, lower the axle with two floor jacks until the tires are on the ground. Disconnect the four control arms at the axle, roll the axle out from under the rig on the tires. In the rear, about the same deal, just remove the e-brake cables. All this requires some muscle, a few drinkin' buddies come in handy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Pretty straight-forward operations. Get the rig up on jack stands. Pull the wheels. Remove the calipers via the caliper supports that mount to the hubs (front) or axle (rear). In front, remove the breather hose and the wires for the e-locker (if a Rubicon). Disconnect the drive shaft at the axle, the drag link and track bar. With the wheels installed, lower the axle with two floor jacks until the tires are on the ground. Disconnect the four control arms at the axle, roll the axle out from under the rig on the tires. In the rear, about the same deal, just remove the e-brake cables. All this requires some muscle, a few drinkin' buddies come in handy.
Oh, and remove the sway bar links, too.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top