You could also measure what your preload is initially before removing the pinion nut and with the carrier and axle shafts still in..... Shouldn't be more than 60in/lbs with good bearings
If you do want to measure proper preload with a beam type wrench and the axle shafts and carrier are still in, you're looking for around 25-30in/lbs. You don't measure preload by the initial turn but while constantly and steadily turning the pinion with the wrench.
This is the info I'm looking for. I'll order the 0-80 inch pound torque wrench.You could also measure what your preload is initially before removing the pinion nut and with the carrier and axle shafts still in..... Shouldn't be more than 60in/lbs with good bearings
Matco is good stuff. Top quality but not as shiny and as expensive as Snap-On.This is the inch pound beam torque wrench i own for doing pinion preload https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/DR100I/DUAL-ROUND-BEAM-TORQUE-WRENCHES/
Very broken in bearings most likely. I'd get it to at least 15-20in/lbs and run it.Well, I measured the pinion preload with the new torque wrench. Carrier and axles in place, brake drums off (drums were dragging slightly and causing reading to go up).
The beam style torque wrench read 2.5 inch pounds during several tries. This was with no fluid in the differential and while constantly turning the pinion nut with the torque wrench. Based on the above posts, it seems very low.
I also marked the yoke, the shaft and the nut plus I counted the number of exposed threads rather than the number of turns to remove the nut. I couldn't break the nut loose with my breaker bar so I loosened it with my impact wrench.
There were 4 exposed threads prior to loosening the nut. I'll install the nut until I have 3 threads and then check the torque. If it's not up to the 2.5 inch pounds, I'll continue to tighten it incrementally until I have 4 threads exposed or have reached the 2.5 inch pounds prior measurement. In a perfect world, I would expect the two to happen together. Then, tighten it to 7.5 inch pounds unless it goes beyond 5 threads.
Looking for input because of the low preload initial measurement.
Good Luck, L.M.
That's the plan. The donor Jeep had 138K miles so I'm not too surprised that the bearings could be "very broken in".Very broken in bearings most likely. I'd get it to at least 15-20in/lbs and run it.
Well, I finally found and ordered 1/4-28 X 3" bolts for my puller. I called all over and couldn't find any fine thread hardware within a reasonable driving distance. Fastenal isn't taking walk in customers during the current virus problem. Home Depot, NAPA, Carquest, Autozone didn't have any fine thread hardware. I was finally able to find a 6 pack on Amazon (I need only 2 bolts for my puller). They came yesterday and I pulled the yoke this morning. Cleaned the gasket surfaces to brand new pristine clean. Installed the new seal with a thin swipe of RTV around the outside. It went on so easy. Just a light tap, tap, tap with my favorite body hammer. The yoke slid easily in place, all nicely lined up with the marks I made. Things were going so well, UNTIL, I put a couple drops of Loctite on the pinion shaft threads and ran the old nut down. I could barely get the nut to the old mark where the torque to turn it was 2.5 ft lbs.Very broken in bearings most likely. I'd get it to at least 15-20in/lbs and run it.
Not exactly, this is why i hate crush sleeves and usually try to shim stack my own personal axles like my 8.8. You only get about 3/16" to 5/16" (depending on axle) of adjustability with a crush sleeve and then it won't "crush" anymore. The preload can also start to diminish if it is crushed too far as well since the sleeve fatigues and starts getting too easy to turn until you hit the point of no return. That's why i found the earlier post suggesting impact guns to tighten so "enlightened."If the crush sleeve had been over crushed the nut would keep turning and preload would go off the charts....
I wonder if someone replaced the crush sleeve w a shim stack