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Discussion Starter #1
So after putzing around with the dealerships I am tired of my P0128 code on all the time. Of course, they can't get it looked at in a timely fashion, so I'll do it myself.
On the 2013 Wrangler JK, I have had the P0128 light on since having the water pump squeal replacement. Last week I replaced the thermostat (and housing-one piece) to the tune of ~$75, including a gallon of the $26 dollar OAT antifreeze. Light decided to come back on. Took it to the dealer today after putting in for an appointment (that they never called back on), so I showed up anyway. Can't "look at" until the 24th! I had the trouble code recorded by them back in November, under warranty, as of which now I am out of. Was told I would have to speak to the manager then if it will be covered. So screw them, I'll do it myself.
I have been all over the internet trying to find EXACTLY where the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is on this thing. I think I have found it on the drivers side, rear portion of the engine, near the firewall. The red tabbed one below.

Anyone have confirmation? If this is it, gonna be a pain to get too. Only way I can see me getting my hands to it, is by dropping the steering shaft. Or by removing the drivers side wheel well "panels." No access from above or below.
Anyone with experience on it??
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sweet! The water pump is also starting to squeal like it did when I had it replaced in July of 2013, when the Jeep was 8 months old. I guess the water pumps on these are good for about 18 months and time to replace. Man do I have a bone to pick NOW!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Was having luck finding a replacement. Just making sure that sucker back in there is it, before I go tearing crap apart. :whacky:
Thanks though
 

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Not meaning to highjack the OP thread but my jeep started popping up the same error code 2 days ago. I'm confused why the code is occurring when you see the temperature register in the normal position. Does replacing the ECT correct the issue or does thermostat need replacing as well? I have a 2012 JKU. Would this part be covered under the 100k/10y power train warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, the dealer wanted to replace the thermostat...again. Made them aware that it had been lss than a week before. Finally got the water pump replaced and coolant drained and replaced. LIGHT IS OFF! They told me that they put in WAY MORE coolant then removed (it was never low) and that it must have been a vapor lock causing the light to stay on....FOR OVER 12 MONTHS. Well...light off...next day it came right back on! BACK ON! OH WELL. The pump WAS replaced under warranty and without any hassle at all.
 

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OK mine has went off and back on and back off again. Seems to be triggered by cold weather but cold weather here is nothing like up north. I guessing it has hit freezing the two times it was triggered and stayed on for couple of days. Currently it's off. I did have the left cylinder head replaced so not sure it's related. Hope it's not an indication of water pump replacement needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Gave up with the dealer fixing this. They gave me a print out of what they do...the steps. Second set of steps, after checking coolant level, involve CHECKING the ECT. I just decided to replace it. $33 dollars. Replaced..by me. Battery disconnected for a few minutes. Light has not been on for a month now. TADAAA!!!!
Biggest pain is getting TO the ECT on the drivers side, toward the back of the engine. I dropped the steering "knuckle" (bolt needs to come all the way-just a hint) and was able to get to it, with some squeezing and finagling, deep sockets and extensions.
 

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Gave up with the dealer fixing this. They gave me a print out of what they do...the steps. Second set of steps, after checking coolant level, involve CHECKING the ECT. I just decided to replace it. $33 dollars. Replaced..by me. Battery disconnected for a few minutes. Light has not been on for a month now. TADAAA!!!!
Biggest pain is getting TO the ECT on the drivers side, toward the back of the engine. I dropped the steering "knuckle" (bolt needs to come all the way-just a hint) and was able to get to it, with some squeezing and finagling, deep sockets and extensions.
Can you send me these steps? Mine is acting up the same way, code is intermittent but the temp is normal, coolant is fine, and so is the water pump.
 

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Dacrazyrn

What temp thermostat do you have in there. if it is lower than a 195 it will throw that code if it don't warm up fast enough.
 

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Another way to prevent code is to let engine warm up before moving or install higher temp stat. I wouldn't rely too much on temp gauge it's not even close. I doubt the ECT is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There is only one THERMOSTAT for (2013) JKU and it is the housing and thermostat in one. It is a 195. The ECT (also from the dealership), there is only one and it has no rating.
The ECT was the problem on mine, but that is only going off of dealer changing thermostat (on the front of the water pump) once and me replacing it once and the code/MIL light comes back on. After replacing the ECT myself...no code/MIL since April
 

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ECT Location

Did that end up being the correct location?

My dealer in Fort Collins just replaced the thermostat and gave the Jeep back. I may have to do it myself too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did that end up being the correct location? My dealer in Fort Collins just replaced the thermostat and gave the Jeep back. I may have to do it myself too.
The ECT I replaced (in the picture I posted earlier) is the one. Replaced it and have not had trouble since
What I did

The printout they gave me was mainly for checking the electrical system. pulling the sensors plug and checking the ohms, etc. Including the ECT plug. I figured if I HAVE to get in there, I am just going to replace it instead. I did it myself.

Bought the ECT (I already had some OAT antifreeze-you will lose some when you remove it. How much depends on how fast you can get the booger back in).
Let the engine cool...be best if overnight, I think less fluid would be lost and guaranteed it is cool.
The best way i figured to get to it was from the top. Might be possible to get at it form the drivers side wheel well. But that looked like it would take pulling the wheel and the wheel well liner out. I disconnected the steering shaft. Think it was a 7/16. That bolt on the knuckle has to come ALL THE WAY out before you can slide the knuckle to disconnect it.
Worked my hand in there and pulled the red tab on the sensor plug up and disconnected it. This was probably the hardest part since you can't get much purchase or torque on it. Move it up and out of the way as much as possible so no fluid gets on it. I had to spray mine with electronics cleaner
I think the deep socket I used was 9/16. I had to test fit a few times to get the right one, but think that was it. put a 6 inch extension on the deep socket and then the socket wrench. It released pretty easily (lefty loosey) and then was able to just take it out by hand.
The ECT already comes with some "pipe dope" on it so then all you have to do is reinstall it. During that time you may lose some antifreeze. SO being ready and quick will minimize that. If the engine is totally cold, may not lose anything..mine was still pretty warm.
The steering wheel shaft may get turned a bit while you are fighting your hand in there, etc. SO make sure your parked with wheels straight forward at the start and then match up the shaft again with steering wheel where it should be.
 
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