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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rear pinion gear in my rear differential went on my 95 YJ!! I took it to a local shop who wanted to rebuild it for about 900. I spoke to a few other mechanics in my area (New jersey) and the others seem to think replacing the entire rear axle is a better fix. Any input would be greatly appreciated!!:atomic:
 

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What size tires are running on the jeep and do you take it offroad?

If it has stock tires and driven on the street it's a waste of money. If it's a serious offroad jeep or going to become one eventually i would upgrade.

The D35 is trash and the paranoia you will have wheeling with one is real. Before i swapped in a 35 spline D44 snapping a D35 shaft and having the axle slide out the side was always on my mind. Now i dont even thinking about breaking axles it was the best jeep mod i ever made.
 

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I've been beating the hell out of a "trash" d35 for 12 years and over 100,000 miles with 33's...

In your neck of the woods you should be able to find a complete used axle for cheap.
 

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I bought a pair of good used 4:10 axles to replace my current 3:07 axles. I paid $500.00 for the pair. I'm thinking that's about the average cost. I can install them myself.
I'm running 31" tires with a 4.2 and don't do the hard stuff anymore.

If you have a 6 cyl engine, you probably have 3:07 gears. If you're running larger than stock tires, the 4:10 axles will give you back your 5th gear. The 4:10 axles are usually found in 4 cyl YJs and are a direct bolt in swap.

If you're running larger than 31" tires (some posters say larger than 33" tires), you should seriously consider upgrading to a Ford 8.8 axle from an Explorer or a D44 axle.
If you do anything more than daily driving and moderate trails you should seriously consider the above upgrades. The Ford 8.8 axle swap requires a bit of cutting and welding but is less expensive than a D44.
The D44 will require modification. What modifications depend on where you source the axle. You can buy a new D44 ready to install but it'll cost more than the $900.00 you were quoted to rebuild your D35.

Things to consider are:
What size tires are you running or plan to run?
What type of use does your Jeep see?
What engine/trans does your Jeep have?

The gear ratio needs to be the same in the front and rear axle or you'll destroy your transfer case as soon as you let the clutch out while the engine is running.

Let us know about the above questions and someone should have a good suggestion for you.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stock tires and suspension. 2.5L 4wd 5 speed. Mostly pavement w some light off roading in dirt. I'd prefer to just get the gears replaced rather than the entire rear end.
 

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i would just find a used axle. A friend of mine just tried to get rid of his 3.73 front and rear and no one wanted them even for free so he scrapped them. They might be a little hard to find but they are out there.

You could even use an XJ rear axle if you get desperate. They are the correct widith but you would need to cut off the spring perches and shock mounts and weld now ones on.
 
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Stock tires and suspension. 2.5L 4wd 5 speed. Mostly pavement w some light off roading in dirt. I'd prefer to just get the gears replaced rather than the entire rear end.
You can do it either way... 'just' replacing gears will cost more because the labor to set em up far exceeds the cost of a used rear end, then the parts will also exceed the cost of a used rear end....
If you shop around you may well find a rear for under $200, then maybe another $200 to pay someone to swap it... OR do it yourself and save more.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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From your vehicle info you'll be looking for an axle with 4.10 gears. make sure you get the right ratio if you go axle shopping or you will still have to do a ring and pinion.
 
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Per the OP, stock tires , springs on a 4cyl engine? Keep your D35 and spend the money. Most times it's worth swapping the D35. Your scenario kinda makes sense. A good donor axle with the correct gear ratio on a vehicle last produced for the 1995 calendar year seems problematic. The answer is usually upgrade. Yours seems to be a rebuild.
 

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Stock tires and suspension. 2.5L 4wd 5 speed. Mostly pavement w some light off roading in dirt. I'd prefer to just get the gears replaced rather than the entire rear end.
And that's exactly what you should do rebuild or replace with another D35. If you want a little extra strength go ahead a throw some 1541H axles in it while you have it apart.

To all the D35 haters, baloney,
Been running an S35 for a few years hard offroad with a 6 cyl and 33" tires.
No problems what so ever, could it break? any axle can break, as far as tube strength they are the exact same tubes used in the Jeep D44. So go ahead and spend $1200 on the 44 swap plus locker or waste money on that humoungous 8.8 setup.


I'll stick with the S35, for a grand I have a locked 30 spline decent bolt in rear axle.
 
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I got no complaints with my D35, but a working D35 out of a salvage yard will cost him less than a R&P job even parts alone, besides shop labor, and Its work he could easily handle himself rather than trying to set up a pinion correct the first time
 

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I did say rebuild or Replace. It can be a crap shoot buying a junkyard Axle housing be sure to open the cover at the junkyard and look at the spider gears and wear on the ring gear, just so you don't have two bad D35's
 

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as far as tube strength they are the exact same tubes used in the Jeep D44.
rear axle.

TJ D44's were not real D44's they were hybrid D44's with a D44 center section and D30/35 outers. I could never figure out why people would pay a premium for crappy factory jeep 44's when you can get much better made custom axles. Trussing any jeep factory axle would help keep them from smiling which they they tend to do when wheeled hard.

I made my D35 last for years but the D35 paranoia is real and that is the only thing that kept mine alive for as long as it did. I went from trying to baby it and not shock load it to now with 3-1/4, 3/8" wall tubes and 35 spline shaft 489's. I no longer have to try and decide if the hard (fun) line is worth trying to take or if the D35 is going to break and make the rest of my day a living hell.

You have to remember the D35 was only meant to handle 26" tires and it does it well. When the Rubicon came out it was designed to handle locked 31" tires. Better yes but they are still under built.

Eventually you get tired of taking the easier lines and want to tackle the harder stuff without this happening.

 

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TJ D44's were not real D44's they were hybrid D44's with a D44 center section and D30/35 outers.
And that's why I said Jeep D44's

If my S35 ever tears up I will buld a 9" rear and a D44 front out of a late 70's Ford. They are still readily available (to me at least) and a heck of a lot better than an 8.8 rear and a built 30 front. Yes, they are 5" wider but 2.5 inches on either side is not that big of a deal.
 

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I think from highplainsdrifters avatar and #1 Post the D35 will serve him well. This is gonna end up being the daughters jeep. She looks like she's ready to go.....:)
 
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And that's why I said Jeep D44's

If my S35 ever tears up I will buld a 9" rear and a D44 front out of a late 70's Ford. They are still readily available (to me at least) and a heck of a lot better than an 8.8 rear and a built 30 front. Yes, they are 5" wider but 2.5 inches on either side is not that big of a deal.

I thought about using a ford 9" but the pinion is too low to work in my jeep with the NV4500. Once i bought a high pinion third member the price was no longer reasonable so i abandoned the idea.

A guy from Dynatrac was trying to sell me on a high pinion D60 and although it had more ground clearance than a standard D44 housing it just seemed kind of ridiculous running a D60 with 35" tires.
 

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I've been beating the hell out of a "trash" d35 for 12 years and over 100,000 miles with 33's...

How confident would you be with 35's? I'm considering them for my next tire purchase.
Depends on how and where you intend on driving it... If you're going to do light wheeling and mostly on road you will be OK with a set of 1541H 27 spline axle shafts.


If you're planning on hard wheeling then build a Super 35 with 30 spline 1541H shafts and a locker of your choice that accepts 30 spline shafts.

If you're going to be extreme wheeling then get rid of the 35.

There's a lot more you need to do to run 35's like amount of lift, upgrading the brakes, steering components, gears if you haven't already... $2000 + not including the re-gear + plus tires.
 
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Since OP is facing $900.00 for a sure thing vs. $200.00-$300.00 plus labor for a maybe, he might go to the mechanic and see if he can negotiate a better price.

#13 post by 12b makes sense if OP knows how to check the R&P + spiders before purchasing a used axle. OP might be better off simply having the rear axle rebuilt if the shop will guarantee the job and price.

HP Drifter, your original post was 5 weeks ago. What did you do, or are you still deciding?

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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