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Ok, I had posted about this before but figured I would refresh it for those who have the lean on stock coiled jeeps ie those who are using spacers for lift or just leaning with no lift.

I have a 2014 jkurwith AEV 2" lift that has leaned to the passenger side. I tried everything. swapped coils and shocks from side to side and ended up adding a 1/2" spacer on the passenger side on top of the AEV spacer and that still just lifted the driver side as much as it did the passenger side. It drove me nuts. I have stock coils of 18 fronts and 60's rear. I have the hardtop and max tow package with auto which generally gives higher coils (I know not always). So I took a gamble and bought a set of 10A springs from a 4 door and last night I swapped out just the passenger side coil. The 10A coil was just over an inch taller free height and had one extra coil compared to the -18 I removed. 18 I removed was 18" and the 10A just over 19" free height.

so voila no more lean. ultimately my 2" AEV is exactly 2.25" taller then stock going by this measurement on both sides. Bottom of both fender flares to ground front and rear on all four corners is 39.25". front rubi rail is 1/2" lower then back of rubi rail so still a ever so slight rack but it does not look like there is a rake to the naked eye parked on flat ground.



Again I only replaced the passenger side driver with the 10A coil nothing else. I have not had it out yet so hoping the different coil numbers don't effect handling but don't see how they will. I know jeeps come with different numbered coils from the factory so we will see later today when I drive it. If nothing else it shows that the 10A coils do lift about 1" vs the higher rated standard coils at least the front passenger one does lol.
 

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It was an easy swap as I just used spring compressors and only had to remove one wheel lol. attached the spring compressors on the coil when the weight of the jeep was compressing them and then jacked it up put one jackstand under the passenger side pulled the wheel lowered the axle and the spring fell out without any trouble. compressed the new spring put it in place and jacked up the axle a bit and removed the compressors that easy.
 

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The fact that shimming the passenger side spring raised the drivers side as well would lead me to believe you have a twisted anti sway bar. If the 10a spring is stiffer as well as longer that could overcome the twist in the anti sway bar, but I don't think this is the correct fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The fact that shimming the passenger side spring raised the drivers side as well would lead me to believe you have a twisted anti sway bar. If the 10a spring is stiffer as well as longer that would overcome the twist in the anti sway bar, but I don't think this is the correct fix.
no that is not it as I have removed both sway bar links and it had 0 effect on the lean, removed them both left one attached left the other attached etc and no difference. That was one of the very first things I did trying to correct the lean. I have loosened and retorq the control arms so many times as well. I had a thread where I chronicled everything I have done and I finally gave up but when a set of 10A's came up I thought what the heck give it a try only cost $100
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Weird, I'd be worried about handling for sure.. Bent frame perhaps..
never had a handling issue and bought with 7 miles on it and at 8000 miles now. It will track straight down the interstate with no hands on the wheel for miles at high way speed. I believe the lean is very common so probably due to crappy welding jigs at the factory. If it handles differently then I will swap back as it only takes 30 or 40 minutes using spring compressors.
 

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You ever consider your weight in the driver seat?

I can see how this would bother people. Seeing its so common, I don't think twice about it.
My jeep is lifted 3.5 and there's a good 1/2 side to side difference in height.

It could be a bunch for things .. Factory tolerances being one. Coil perch locations, axle angle/cross caster. All seem to vary jeep to jeep.

Curious to hear your results. The only issue I see, if the coils had different rates causing odd handling,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tank empty tank full, driver, driver pass, just passenger etc never made a difference. Handled the same today but did not get a chance to drive over 60
 

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It will be interesting to see, when going over speed bumps in a parking lot, if the weaker spring allows you wrangler to, instead of staying stable up and down in the front, will it wobble more from side to side, plus up and down. But, then again, maybe quality shocks would just stabilize it.
Please, keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It will be interesting to see, when going over speed bumps in a parking lot, if the weaker spring allows you wrangler to, instead of staying stable up and down in the front, will it wobble more from side to side, plus up and down. But, then again, maybe quality shocks would just stabilize it.
Please, keep us posted!
speed bumps felt great no difference at all. I guess it is no different then having an 18 and 17 from the factory. I have to say so far so good. I won't get off road until next week but so far on the street there is no difference in how feels.
 

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Lean can be annoying, so I am glad you resolved it and I believe a taller eliminate the lean but it should be leaning 1" in the first place if everything is to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lean can be annoying, so I am glad you resolved it and I believe a taller eliminate the lean but it should be leaning 1" in the first place if everything is to spec.
I have heard anywhere from .0 to 1" is in spec. I have not seen anything from jeep tho. I know my last 2103 jku had 0 lean from the factory. I think it has to do with the jigs as they get worn the tolerances get greater when they are assembling the frames. get the frist frame off a jig will be different then the 5000th frame off the same jig. I am not sure why it bugged me but it did. My buddies 14 jku has no lean so i know it has to be in spec to have 0 lean or less then 1". this says +or- .47 side to side.
http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stock-jk-tech-12/jk-stock-curb-height-measurements-297499/
 

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I concur with the 10a spring info. I bought 4 coils and shocks( 300kms on them) off a 10A. I installed the fronts last weekend and got pretty much 1" lift exactly.( replacing 17s) There is a difference, side to side, of about 3/8", but I had that before the swap too. One thing I noticed, while not affecting height, the red 10A shocks felt somewhat softer than the Sahara shocks I took out. The ride is definitely better after the swap. I'm going to do the rears this weekend. Like Jadmt said, the front swap was easy, so if the rake is back after the rear install, the front will get spacers added.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have to say this was a great fix. played offroad today and did a lot of 50mph really rough washboard and pot hole roads and handled very good. Also did 50 miles at 85mph and was great. the new Rancho 7000's were also money well spent. I have RockKrawler 1.5" coils ordered but kind of wishing I would not have ordered them as the ride and handling are great. Only flexed it enough to check to see how the shocks were but high speed washboards were smooth as glass as was fast interstate and 2 lane.

 

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I have to say this was a great fix. played offroad today and did a lot of 50mph really rough washboard and pot hole roads and handled very good. Also did 50 miles at 85mph and was great. the new Rancho 7000's were also money well spent. I have RockKrawler 1.5" coils ordered but kind of wishing I would not have ordered them as the ride and handling are great. Only flexed it enough to check to see how the shocks were but high speed washboards were smooth as glass as was fast interstate and 2 lane.
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Jadmt... What size Toyo's are you running?

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285/75-17 ie skinny 34's. They do very well. I ended up airing down to 14psi in the snow and could have easily went down to 10psi or so which I will do next time.
 
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