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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to finally lift my jeep - plan to go 3" with a 37" tire.

My jeep will primarily be used for beach cruising, daily drive to work (I commute about 10 miles round trip per day), and occasionally pulling my 17x50 flat boat to the duck camp. I do not plan on wheeling or rock crawling.

Ive read many articles on this forum about gear options. Given the conditions I stated above and the anticipated use of my vehicle, its hard to tell whether I should run 4:88, or go to the 5:13?

My jeep have the DANA 30, as it is only the unlimited sport model.

Any suggestions for my regear, any experienced member on here have any advice of on lifting the jeep 3"? I have seen some say they had to change the drive shaft out?

Thanks for any responses and advice - it is very much appreciated.

B
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Looking to finally lift my jeep - plan to go 3" with a 37" tire.

My jeep will primarily be used for beach cruising, daily drive to work (I commute about 10 miles round trip per day), and occasionally pulling my 17x50 flat boat to the duck camp. I do not plan on wheeling or rock crawling.

Ive read many articles on this forum about gear options. Given the conditions I stated above and the anticipated use of my vehicle, its hard to tell whether I should run 4:88, or go to the 5:13?

My jeep have the DANA 30, as it is only the unlimited sport model.

Any suggestions for my regear, any experienced member on here have any advice of on lifting the jeep 3"? I have seen some say they had to change the drive shaft out?

Thanks for any responses and advice - it is very much appreciated.

B
Vehicle is a 2016 wrangler sport
 

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Since you're going to be pulling a boat, I wouldn't hesitate to run 5.13 gears. There will be people who will tell you that you shouldn't run those gears but the way you're going to use the Jeep, you will be OK if you do it right.

I would reinforce the axle housing to deal with the stress of 37's, even for mild driving. The Artec Axle Armor kit is great. It has the truss and C-gussets that will reinforce the critical weaknesses of the Dana 30. You'll need to have someone weld it on if you're not an experienced welder.

You will also want a heavy duty differential cover. This is another piece in the "beef up the Dana 30" puzzle that will help extend the life of your axle. Pick one you like. They're all better than a factory stamped steel cover.

There really isn't a single kit that has everything. You'll need to get many of the parts separately. A good lift kit will have all of the suspension pieces you need. But you probably won't find one with a new driveshaft and/or exhaust spacer.
 

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Well by chance can we talk you into just a 2.5 inch lift and 35's. Once you go to 37's you need to think about upgrading the steering components. Cost goes up when doing 37's and though people have done it D30's and 37's are not a very good combination. And even with a 2.5 inch lift you can run 37's with flat fenders.

As far as gearing goes, manual or automatic? With a D30 I would not go any higher than 4.88's.

As far as lifts go based on what you intend to do I would think AEV would be the way to go. Add in a pair of geometry brackets and exhaust spacers and you have everything you need for 2.5 inches. Based on your usage at that height you may never need a different front drive shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks alot for the replies!

2.5" with 35's is certainly something I am open too, especially if it would reduce the costs that drastically. I intend to run a 20x12, or preferably a 20x14 (I really like the look the wider rims give the jeep), my only concern is that the 35" tires may look undersized on the 2.5" kit?

Auto transmission - I assume I would still need to re-gear, even with the 35's? If i did go 35s, Im guessing i wouldn't need the 5.13s?

Thanks again!

B
 

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Looking to finally lift my jeep - plan to go 3" with a 37" tire.

My jeep will primarily be used for beach cruising, daily drive to work (I commute about 10 miles round trip per day), and occasionally pulling my 17x50 flat boat to the duck camp. I do not plan on wheeling or rock crawling.

Ive read many articles on this forum about gear options. Given the conditions I stated above and the anticipated use of my vehicle, its hard to tell whether I should run 4:88, or go to the 5:13?

My jeep have the DANA 30, as it is only the unlimited sport model.

Any suggestions for my regear, any experienced member on here have any advice of on lifting the jeep 3"? I have seen some say they had to change the drive shaft out?

Thanks for any responses and advice - it is very much appreciated.

B
37's are awfully big for a Dana 30. With the 3.6l, I would go 4.88 (as the 5.13 pinion is pretty damn small on a D30) and sleeve and gusset your front axle.
 

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Thanks alot for the replies!

2.5" with 35's is certainly something I am open too, especially if it would reduce the costs that drastically. I intend to run a 20x12, or preferably a 20x14 (I really like the look the wider rims give the jeep), my only concern is that the 35" tires may look undersized on the 2.5" kit?

Auto transmission - I assume I would still need to re-gear, even with the 35's? If i did go 35s, Im guessing i wouldn't need the 5.13s?

Thanks again!

B
With 35's and an auto most people will go with 4.56 gears. If you want to have the option of 37's then go with 4.88's.

35's don't look to small with a 2.5 inch lift, in fact it is about perfect. And has I said with flat fenders 37's will work.

As far as going with 20 inch wheels, that is up to you. I would not do it as impacts ride quality in a negative way. Also check your state laws about have tires sticking out past the wheel wells. With 4.5 inches of backspacing on my wheels they stick out about 2 inches on each side. That would not be legal in some state.
 

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Left is 3” with 35s right is 3” with 34s. I don’t think either look too small.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I think the 35s look really good in the pictures you provided!

I hear ya on the negative impact to ride quality, however, in my case thats not really a determining factor or deterrent. (Another DD I can use for longer trips). Only issue i could thing of may be limited turning radius with a wider wheel?

I will however, have to check on the legality of it.
 

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Thanks alot for the replies!

2.5" with 35's is certainly something I am open too, especially if it would reduce the costs that drastically. I intend to run a 20x12, or preferably a 20x14 (I really like the look the wider rims give the jeep), my only concern is that the 35" tires may look undersized on the 2.5" kit?

Auto transmission - I assume I would still need to re-gear, even with the 35's? If i did go 35s, Im guessing i wouldn't need the 5.13s?

Thanks again!

B
Terry is 100% on the money. Costs are drastically reduced and for a DD/non-off road Jeep 35s are a good choice. People see the price of a 2.5" lift kit vs. a 3" and think that's it. Extended brake lines, DS (for sure), geometry correction (via fixed, brackets or adjustable arms)axle housing etc. all need to be addressed on 37s. Each of those is its own issue to tackle properly. Buy a 2.5" lift or even 3"; get 35s and 4.88s and you'll be happy as a kitten with a bowl of milk. Any size regret will be eliminated in your wallet and driveability.
You will still need to re-gear. For towing I'd go 4.88s. However you are in flat Florida where I've seen people go numerically lower since there are no hills. Either 4.56s or 4.88s are a good choice. If you go to a 3" you'll still probably need a front DS at some point. 2.5" is usually ok on the DS.
IMO- a shorter lift makes a tire look larger. Ie: I had a 3"+ lift on 33s. I replaced the springs and went closer to 4". With all that fender gap I swear my tires had shrunk.
IMO- if my Jeep was my DD and not a rock monster (LOL) I'd stick to a 2.5" lift, 35s, 4.56s or 4.88s all day long. Now that I am not really on the trail as often I've even pondered dialing it back. However my friends would disown me.
 

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Thanks alot for the replies!

2.5" with 35's is certainly something I am open too, especially if it would reduce the costs that drastically. I intend to run a 20x12, or preferably a 20x14 (I really like the look the wider rims give the jeep), my only concern is that the 35" tires may look undersized on the 2.5" kit?

Auto transmission - I assume I would still need to re-gear, even with the 35's? If i did go 35s, Im guessing i wouldn't need the 5.13s?

Thanks again!

B
35's are a lot less investment and they're easier on your axles. It's still worth looking into axle reinforcements at the C's and the differential cover but the truss isn't needed as much for a daily driver that doesn't see much off road.

If you're going to tow with 35's I'd still look at 4.88's but 4.56 would be acceptable as well.
 

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There is a lot of information on here about this. You would be smart to either stick to 35" tires or be prepared to spend a bunch of money either upgrading your D30 or fixing it when it breaks if you are going to run 37's.
As mentioned, you really want 5.13 gears with 37" tires. But 5.13 gears with a D30 are borderline. You would be better off upgrading to at least a HD D44 or even a used D44 out of a Rubi that has been strengthened / beefed up.
And to run 37" tires clearance wise you can either run a 2.5" lift (which typically gives you about 3" of lift) and flat / tube fenders or you can run a 3.5" lift (which typically gives you around 4" of lift) and stock fenders.
The 2.5" lift is near half what a proper 3.5" lift costs to do right. So again, more money.
A nicely built Jeep running 35" tires on a good quality 2.5" lift with proper gears can be a real nice Jeep. Making the same quality build but with 37" tires and all the extra increases required will cost a lot more.
For the record, I am running 37" tires. I have already spent a lot, and it keeps going. My latest upgrade is replacing the bent tie rod with a $500 aluminum one.
 

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Terry is dead on about the cost between 2.5 and 3 and 35's vs 37's. Id say its safe to say you are looking at 2x maybe 2.5x the cost of doing a 2.5 with 35' properly and doing 37's and hoping it works itself out. AEV DualSport is a great recommendation. The rear springs are intended for a heavier load so pulling your boat wont drop the ass end of the JKU. In addition, running 37's and 4.88's or higher will suck with speeds above 55mph. Finding a balance of 4.10 or 4.56 seems a better all around compromise unless you are pulling your boat several times week every week.

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jk-dualsport-xt-suspension-2-5/
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys, I very much appreciate the responses and information.

Going to go with yalls advice and run the 2.5" lift with 35's. I certainly wont be towing several times a week. I primarily hunt waterfowl, so the towing of the boat is limited to about 3-4 months out the year.

Im figuring I will either run the 4.56, or 4.88 with this set.

Also - given the information provided, I will need the exhaust spacers and geometry kit?

B
 

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Probably not with a 2.5". Each manufacturer is different. And make sure to look at the actual lift height. Different for a 2 door to a 4. Any reputable lift manufacturer will tell you what's really needed and what isn't. Usually 3" is when you need those items.
 

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Thanks guys, I very much appreciate the responses and information.

Going to go with yalls advice and run the 2.5" lift with 35's. I certainly wont be towing several times a week. I primarily hunt waterfowl, so the towing of the boat is limited to about 3-4 months out the year.

Im figuring I will either run the 4.56, or 4.88 with this set.

Also - given the information provided, I will need the exhaust spacers and geometry kit?

B
If you go with the AEV DualSport I would advise Geo Brackets. It will provide a much nicer ride. In fact they also advise geo brackets.

Exhaust spacers are pretty much a requirement for any lift unless you want aftermarket or custom built Y-pipe. AEV says you don't need them so maybe you could see if it will work without.

Oh and the one thing I forgot is you will need a programmer for the larger tires. The AEV Pro-cal will work just fine.
 
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