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greethings from México

hi i just want to say that i love what you did with your jeep, i think that im going to do exactly the same.

i just instal the rancho 2" lift kit and i love it so far.

with out the kit

View attachment 2345761

with the rancho 2" lift kit haven't had the chance to go and test it yet

View attachment 2345769

cheers
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Thank Fernando,
Your Jeep looks great. Glad you are enjoying the lift.

The rack is simply a Thule gutter mount rack, with the Thule wind fairing up front. I usually put one bar over the passenger doors and one over the driver doors. I use it to haul my canoe and I have a Yakima Rocket Box for lightweight stuff that I mount to it.

Mike
 
thnks Mike

i think i need to get one of those racks, because i do like to take off the hard top, any way the most we do its trails and camping, nothing realy extreme, but i always take my dog with us, so i need some extra space for some stuff, like the camping tent and such things.



Fernando
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I've moved on to the next stage of my suspension build. I wasn't completely satisfied with the articulation I was getting out of my system, so I'm continuing to upgrade it. The first step was new longer travel shocks. I'll start with these and add components as I figure out what the limiting factors are. The next major component will likely be a set of control arms.

I picked are the Fox 2.0 Reservoir shocks to upgrade too. The Ranchos are a good shock, but these Fox are another level. They are probably overkill, but I'm enjoying the ride. It is not overly stiff, but the Jeep feels very well controlled.

I choose the 11.5 inch travel shocks that are usually marketed for a 4-6 inch lift. I will lose a little up travel, but so far they are pretty close with the 2 inch bumpstop extensions. They hit the factory bump absorber about 1 inch before the shocks bottom out. I can also get full droop out of both the front and rear without hitting or pulling anything. The only change I had to make was to extend the rear breather line.

Fox part numbers 985-24-011 fronts and 985-24-012 rears.

Mike
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Fernando, nice camp site picture.

Here are some of mine since adding the new shocks. Seems to have decent flex for still using the stock control arms. I'll definitely need different fenders to go to 35s.

Mike





 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
So i skipped 35s and went right to 36s. Irok bias ply 36x13.50 17 on Cragar 17x8 black D window wheels. The tires measure almost 37 inches tall. I added a set of Modern Classic Enterprise fender flares in their faux carbon fiber for the additional clearance.

Here's some crappy cell phone pics. I'll take some better ones when the weather clears up.

Mike



 
So i skipped 35s and went right to 36s. Irok bias ply 36x13.50 17 on Cragar 17x8 black D window wheels. The tires measure almost 37 inches tall. I added a set of Modern Classic Enterprise fender flares in their faux carbon fiber for the additional clearance. Here's some crappy cell phone pics. I'll take some better ones when the weather clears up. Mike
How do they ride and whats the load range ?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
They don't list a standard letter load range on the Interco tire site, but they are rated for up to 3360 lbs per tire. I currently have them at 25 psi and they ride rally well. They are more comfortable then the E rated ST Maxx that were on it. They are also much louder. A few of the locals run them and have suggested bumping up to 30 psi to bring the noise down. I'll give it a try and see how it works. They are bias and are quite light for a big tire at 66 pounds each.
 
man i love the evolution of your ride and tnx for the props on the camp site.

i havnt decided what tires im going to get if 33s or 35 BFG mudd terrain, in your expirence what will you recomend??
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
If you are thinking you want 35s, then skip the 33s. My slow build has been fun, but its not better or cheaper in the long run then jumping into a good quality lift and 35s. Although I have to admit there are a lot of people up here who have been very surprised with what my Jeep could do on 33s.

Mike
 
If you are thinking you want 35s, then skip the 33s. My slow build has been fun, but its not better or cheaper in the long run then jumping into a good quality lift and 35s. Although I have to admit there are a lot of people up here who have been very surprised with what my Jeep could do on 33s.

Mike
tnx for the input, i have until dicember to think about it, my only worry whit the 35s its that some peaple say they are to heavy so they cause a little lost MPG and power.

Fernando
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Here are some better updated pictures. 36x13.50 17 Irok bias tires, Cragar D window wheels, Modern Classic Enterprises fenders, and OR Fab rock sliders.

Mike





 
Here are some better updated pictures. 36x13.50 17 Irok bias tires, Cragar D window wheels, Modern Classic Enterprises fenders, and OR Fab rock sliders.

Mike





what gearing do you have? rear factory LSD? also any plans for lockers? im thinking of keep rear trac-lok and locking the front d30 on my sahara. Might just go with a TF or PR 44 though
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I'm still running the stock axles with 3.73 years. I do have the factory rear LSD. I'm having the same conversation currently and weighing upgrading the front with its multitude of options or building up a set of Ford Super Duty axles for front and rear. I will upgrade to 4.88 gears and lockers when I do the new axle(s).

Artec sells a kit that makes the SD axles a pretty easy swap for similar price to buying a new built front D44. The SD swap also gets you new 1 ton brakes, but it requires moving up to 8 bolt wheels and living with a wider track width.

So I'm using it as is and haven't broken anything yet. My goal is to have the axle question resolved and whatever changes I'm going to make complete by next summer.
 
Rather then rebuild my D30 I built a MOPAR D44HD with 5.38 and OX Locker. Killer combination with the 3.8 auto. Very cost effective conversion.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Rather then rebuild my D30 I built a MOPAR D44HD with 5.38 and OX Locker. Killer combination with the 3.8 auto. Very cost effective conversion.
Building up a new Dana HD D44 is on the top of my options list. I wasn't aware that Ox made a locker to fit it. I know ARB and stock Rubicon are both options for lockers, but the Ox would be great too.

Mike
 
Building up a new Dana HD D44 is on the top of my options list. I wasn't aware that Ox made a locker to fit it. I know ARB and stock Rubicon are both options for lockers, but the Ox would be great too. Mike
Yes, OX has a direct (metric) replacement for the factory original Rubi E locker as well as ARB. The beauty of OX is you can hook it up as manual cable, electric or air.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
New Control Arms!!!


Well, sort of. I scored a set of lightly used Rough Country control arms for cheap. Now there are really three primary components to a control arm. The frame side bushing, the steel for the arm, and the axle side bushing. The RC arms use a stock type rubber bushing for the frame side, 2.5 inch steel tubing for the lower arms and 1.25 inch tubing for the uppers, and their proprietary flex joint on the axle side. The primary complaint you hear about the RC arms is the quality of the flex joints. So I replaced all of the RC flex joints with Currie's Johnny Joints, which are still considered the king for joint durability and longevity. There are a few newer joints on the market, but none of them have the track record and variety of parts available as the Currie joints.

I also removed my Rancho geometry correction brackets. I was dragging them on the rocks and managed to put a slight bend in one of the corners of the left bracket.

The ride is a little firmer, but not in a bad way. I haven't had a chance to give them a work out yet, so I'll report back when I do on whether they flex any better or not. The stock arms do work very well within their limits.

Now for some pictures.

Here are two of the stock vs. Currie for the rear upper arms.





Here's the front lower arm installed.


Here's the rear lower arm installed.


And a snow wheeling picture from last Saturday for variety.


Mike
 
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