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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought an 02 TJ. When I was test driving it I tested going in reverse. I couldn't get it in gear. The fellow selling it explained about double clutching, and we tried it out, got it in reverse (with a little struggle) and I backed up 10 feet. I stopped (clutch in, brake on), but I could still feel the motor struggling against the brake. With the clutch fully in, I let off the brake slightly (flat area) and it immediately started moving backwards. Then we tried taking it out of reverse and couldn't do it (either of us). Double clutching wouldn't work, because if I let go of the clutch I would stall. Eventually we shut it off (which felt odd since it was fighting to go backwards). Got it out of reverse. Started in neutral, shifted into first. Pulled forward 20 feet. Double clutched to get it into reverse and the same thing happened all over again. It keep wanting to go back even with the clutch in and you can't get it out of reverse without shutting the engine off.

The fellow said it was a relatively new clutch and talked about maybe there was air in the hydraulic line that needed bleeding. I have no knowledge or experience in this area, so I just nodded and smiled and figured I would take it to a mechanic to have it checked out.

Any ideas what the issue could be? I like to have some idea before talking to a mechanic.
 

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This is a major safety issue that also impedes your ability to use of your vehicle.

This should be done at the expense of the seller. Make arrangements with the seller to take it to a mechanic of your choice. One that you trust. Get the diagnosis and estimate. The seller should pay for the repair or take the Jeep back and refund all your money. Most states have some kind warranty under their consumer protection laws. Even for private party sales.

In Massachusetts, that condition would prevent passing RMV inspection. That alone, would require the seller to repair at their expense so it can pass inspection or void the sale with a full refund. If you just bought it, this should not be on your dime...
 
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Around here if you buy as is it is as is especially from a private seller

Sounds like clutch is not fully releasing and could be as simple as air in clutch hydraulics but also could be something else

Who is responsible depends or terms of sale, if private seller or dealer and local regulation/statute


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Around here if you buy as is it is as is especially from a private seller

Sounds like clutch is not fully releasing and could be as simple as air in clutch hydraulics but also could be something else

Who is responsible depends or terms of sale, if private seller or dealer and local regulation/statute

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got it for 1/2 the cost of anything else listed in the area. Generally, it looks in good shape with a solid frame, good tires, most things in good working order. I have no doubt with the low price this sale is "as is". Yes, I could push back to return it under local laws, but unless the repair costs more than I paid for the vehicle, I'll still come out ahead.
 

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Does pumping the clutch a few times rapidly get clutch to fully release?

If that helps probably just need to replace the master and slave as they come as a unit with line already attached


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does pumping the clutch a few times rapidly get clutch to fully release?

If that helps probably just need to replace the master and slave as they come as a unit with line already attached

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Not a few times. Just twice. (down/up/down) That only works for getting it into reverse. Then you are stuck.

I'm dropping it off at the mechanic in 45 min...
 

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Brake/clutch fluid is essentially not compressible but air is so a few pumps adds enough fluid at master end to compress any air enough to get more movement at slave end


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1/2 the cost would change things slightly... Repair on your own sounds like you would still be in good shape on the deal. So pushing back on the seller or trying to void the sale might not be the best thing to do in this case.

Good luck on finding the fix quickly and cheaply, so you can get on the road with the rest of us!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mechanic replaced Master/Slave assembly and said it is now shifting great in all gears. They are also replacing the muffler/exhaust area now, which they felt was too corroded to pass inspection. A fresh tune up (since I have no clue how well those items were maintained), and it will be ready for inspection and back on the road. That still leaves me several thousand ahead to buy parts and get my snow plow installed on it.

Thanks for all the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update: Picked it up Friday. Passed inspection (though they want me to patch some body rust I was already planning to patch) and it's driving fine. Parts are ordered for the plow, so I just hope I can stay ahead of the snow.
 
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