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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some advise on an upgrade to the stock gear ratio. 2014 2dr sport S, upgrades thus far include bumpers, teraflex performance level kit, and 285/75/16s. I was told when purchased that the ratio was 3.71 but just got the build sheet and it is actually 3.21. Since the new rims/tires went on getting it moving seems to be a chore. Maybe it is in my head but I doubt it. Used mostly on road and dirt/rocky NE trails. Go to 4.1?
 

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^^^If, you don't plan on running any tires larger than 285s, then yes, a 4.10 ratio should get you moving just fine...:thumb:

I have 4.10s in my 2013. I still have the 32s on it, but when I wear them out, then 285x70rx17s will be going on mine.
 

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There are no 3.71 gears, the closest ratio is 3.73. You current tires are equivalent to 33" so 4.10 is a perfect match. You can even get away with 35s if you don't mind slightly sluggish performance (highly subjective).

Changing gears is not cheap specially from 3.21 so look at the gear char and make sure you pick the gears based on your desired cruising RPM speed.
 

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I may be in the minority in this thread, but I always look to the future. I would vote for 4.56, but that is me. I would set my Jeep up for 35's. 4.10's will be great for 33's now and on the cusp with 35's but I like to be geared a little deeper. 4.56 and 35's would be perfect.

4.88 and 37's :)

-Dan
 

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I may be in the minority in this thread, but I always look to the future. I would vote for 4.56, but that is me. I would set my Jeep up for 35's. 4.10's will be great for 33's now and on the cusp with 35's but I like to be geared a little deeper. 4.56 and 35's would be perfect. 4.88 and 37's :) -Dan
I am doing that now, 4:56 with 35. Will say though these new engines with the 4.10' is not that bad though
 

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I currently run 4.56 gears with 35" tires. 4.10's will work just fine with 33's.

However, you should think about not just the next set of tires but what you will want to run in the long term. If you want to go bigger you should plan your gears to work with those tires as well as the 33's you're going to run.

One thing you will have to deal with for sure. When you do the gear upgrade you will need to replace the carrier in the front D30. That's an extra expense that you will have to account for. You won't have to replace the carrier in the rear D44 if you don't want to but you can.

You should consider what you want to do with your Jeep as far as taking it off road when you do put in the new gears. If you think you want to put a locker in either or both axles, the time to do it is when you replace the gears. Most of the work you do to swap the gears will have to be done twice if you wait and put a locker in later. There's no sense paying for the labor twice when you can do it all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info and sorry for the delayed response. It sounds like you guys have been through this so you may know my next question...with the gears themselves running about 4 to 5 and the install kit another 100 this easy fix is adding up quick. Once I add in the cost of the carrier and labor any idea on what this will run? Ballpark is fine just looking for a rough idea for when I start to track down labor.
 

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Looking for some advise on an upgrade to the stock gear ratio. 2014 2dr sport S, upgrades thus far include bumpers, teraflex performance level kit, and 285/75/16s. I was told when purchased that the ratio was 3.71 but just got the build sheet and it is actually 3.21. Since the new rims/tires went on getting it moving seems to be a chore. Maybe it is in my head but I doubt it. Used mostly on road and dirt/rocky NE trails. Go to 4.1?
I'd go with 4.56s if you are going to regear. You'll be good all the way to 35s. If you don't drive above 60mph, you'll love the extra shnell from 4.88s. Don't do 4.10s...they are expensive and 4.56 is where you want to be.
 

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I may be in the minority in this thread, but I always look to the future. I would vote for 4.56, but that is me. I would set my Jeep up for 35's. 4.10's will be great for 33's now and on the cusp with 35's but I like to be geared a little deeper. 4.56 and 35's would be perfect.

4.88 and 37's :)

-Dan
x2 Best to future proof. I don't care what you say now, at some point most people want to go bigger. Once you start crawling some rock and see how those 35's and 37's are performing, you start getting the itch.

Having said that, my very first mod at 1100 miles, with factory 32's, was to go with a 5.13 gear ratio. (3.8, Auto) I then went to 33" Duratracs swiftly follow by 35" KM2's. I have two regrets. 1) Not going with 35's from the start (small regret) and 2) Not getting lockers installed while the axle was open. Would have saved a ton of dough on install costs.

I suppose I said all of this to back up my future proof statement. Do it right the first time and save yourself the hassle (and money).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the insight all. I have been researching ratios, etc. And you have me sold on 4.56. One question however, lockers vs. LSDs. I know one is flip a switch and done but is there a huge difference in overall performance? Also I have been finding that a good number of folks only do one locker? If this is true, front or rear? Just don't want to dump money in unnecessarily.
 

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There is a big difference between limited slip and a locker. There's also two kinds of lockers, automatic and selectable. Read up a little more here: The Basics of Differentials and Lockers

A limited slip is great on the road, especially in snow and ice. It helps a little off road but only so much. It's still easy to get stuck where having a locker will get you through.

As far as front vs rear, I always recommend a rear locker if you're going with just one. Most of the time when you need a locker you're trying to drive up an obstacle. Most of the weight of the vehicle is on the rear tires. More weight on the tires means you get more traction. Less weight means less traction. You may find that with a front only locker you just have two front tires spinning instead of one where a rear locker will make more of a real difference. A front only locker is still better than no locker but a rear only locker is far more effective use of your money.
 

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Thanks for the insight all. I have been researching ratios, etc. And you have me sold on 4.56. One question however, lockers vs. LSDs. I know one is flip a switch and done but is there a huge difference in overall performance? Also I have been finding that a good number of folks only do one locker? If this is true, front or rear? Just don't want to dump money in unnecessarily.
Everyone will say it just depends on your desired use. (And that is true) There are both selectable lockers and auto lockers. I like my selectable ones. Selectable are generally recommended for a dd vehicle. I would recommend doing front and rear and being done with it if you are going to be hanging on to the jeep for a long time.
 

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I have a 2014 6sp man with 3.21's i am going with the 4.10's and 35" tires. I dont need the lower gearing for west texas lots of highway driving at over 75+mph. my question is where is the best place to purchase everything gears and new carrier for the front. I will also be installing lockers front and rear because hey why not the diff's will already be open. just not sure on what lockers
 

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I have a 2014 6sp man with 3.21's i am going with the 4.10's and 35" tires. I dont need the lower gearing for west texas lots of highway driving at over 75+mph. my question is where is the best place to purchase everything gears and new carrier for the front. I will also be installing lockers front and rear because hey why not the diff's will already be open. just not sure on what lockers
Sometimes the shop that does the install can make you a good deal on the parts. Ask them for a quote for parts and labor and then just the labor if you supply the parts. Shop around for the parts. You can usually find some place with a special going. And if you call a shop they may give you a discount if you buy everything at once.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Like the Grimm jeeper site. But now data overload has me thinking maybe 4.1 is a better fit. Things are never simple. :) Once I put together a parts list would you mind taking a look at it for me?
 

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Trying to figure up cost. I'm about to go through the same thing with my 13 sport (auto) with 3.21 gears and 35's and I'm going with 4.56. Besides the cost of the regearing what should I add in for the carrier for the D30?
 

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Thanks for the insight all. I have been researching ratios, etc. And you have me sold on 4.56. One question however, lockers vs. LSDs. I know one is flip a switch and done but is there a huge difference in overall performance? Also I have been finding that a good number of folks only do one locker? If this is true, front or rear? Just don't want to dump money in unnecessarily.

Just quick warning on auto lockers if your jeep is an automatic and a 2012+ - You can only use a selectable locker in the rear. An auto locker will create havoc between the tranny controller and the wheel sensors for the traction control sending the transmission in to limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Danny, I looked into it already: a new open carrier is only a hundred or so to hold the larger ring. A selectable locker will run close to 800. Are you doing lockers on both or just the rear?
 
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