River Raider Expedition Snorkel-2012 Wrangler
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I searched a couple of forums, and you're right...no info I could find on the RR snorkel and installation on a '12.
You've probably seen these, but I'll post em anyway, since there are some good tips for general install in them:
River Raider Expedition Snorkel Install
River Raider Snorkel Install - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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1,956 Posts
X2 on this.
I'm very curious, because IMO this is the coolest snorkel I've seen.
Something about making the hood of my Jeep look like the top of a large mobile compressor/generator is extremely appealing and SOMEONE has got to have tried it.
Even if unsuccessful I'd like to know what the engineering challenges are.
I'm very curious, because IMO this is the coolest snorkel I've seen.
Something about making the hood of my Jeep look like the top of a large mobile compressor/generator is extremely appealing and SOMEONE has got to have tried it.
Even if unsuccessful I'd like to know what the engineering challenges are.
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318 Posts
I bought some stuff off Fleabay from River Raider and had a very bad experience!! My 2Cents look for another vendor! Their support is bad and the guys working for them are rude.
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598 Posts
My install was was a good experience! Just make sure you have the right tools, sharp hole saw or two, and maybe a couple xtra pilot bits for your hole saw arbor. Throw a couple of blankets over your engine and exposed painted parts due to flying sharp hot metal bits flying around. Not sure on the 2012 but a dremel tool came in handy for the battery tray! Good luck!
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1,956 Posts
Looks cool!
Thanks for posting this!
How badly is that air tube getting squished?
Can you detail the air box modifications?
Thanks for posting this!
How badly is that air tube getting squished?
Can you detail the air box modifications?
First off the instructions they provide with the kit are pretty good, i am just going to try and fill in the gaps a bit. 1st step is to remove the airbox. Open the four clips that close the airbox then open in and disconnect the intake hose going into the engine. Remove the filter and try to keep in clean if you plan on reusing it. For the bottom of the airbox (the part with the factory snorkel) you will need to apply and little force and pull strait up, there are three rubber gaskets that hold the air box in place.
After you have the air box out its time to start marking up and cutting. (i used a dremel with a small cut off wheel for all the cuts in the airbox, made it easy work) The direction of flow in the air box is going to reverse from the factory style so there is two new holes that need to be cut and two holes that will need plugged up.
1. The first step is to remove the factory snorkel from the airbox, i did this by cutting Us around the rivets then pulling it out. you will have to cut off the flange that the snorkel attached with making all the edges flush with the side of the air box. This hole will be covered up with a flat stainless plate later.
2. On the opposite side of where you removed the factory snorkel you will need to trim of three ribs in the side of the air box. as you can see in the picture i cut out underneath the lip as well so i could fit the template and the fitting provided all the way against the underside of the lip (this keeps the fitting flat on the face of the air box and makes it easier to seal. after you determine where the hole needs to be drilled using the template provided drill using a 3" hole saw. Before drilling any holes in the airbox look inside at the surface you will be drilling into, the air box has some internal ribs you will need to trim. (the directions call for a 3 1/8 hole saw, i did all air box cuts with a 3" then used a sanding attachment on the dremel to enlarge the holes if required, i didn't want to drill them too big and leave excess wiggle room for the fittings).
3. Now on the previous exit on the factory snorkel you will need to cut off a few ribs and drill a hole for the new intake location into the airbox. use the template provided and take your time. I would align the new fitting to make sure it has a flush fit before drilling your holes.
4. Finishing off the airbox. At this point i got a bit distracted with the install and stopped taking pictures at every step. (sorry) For each hole you cut and need to patch up place the fitting on the air box and mark where you need to drill holes for the provided bolts. After you have drilled all the provided holes look inside the air box and ensure there is nothing in the way that will get in the way of putting on the nuts (there will be a few) After you clear out any obstacles with a dremel and utility knife do a solid cleaning of the interior of the airbox. Get out all of those plastic shards and any dirt that you have pulled in the factory snorkel REMEMBER your air flow direction will be changing. After its cleaned up lay down a good bead of black silicone caulking and place in each fitting, set this all aside. The factory outlet on the airbox will need to be capped with the provided cap, use a generous amount of caulking.
Set this all aside and let it firm up while you work on the battery.
5. My friend actually did the battery relocation work while i was on the airbox, so I'll try to give you the key problem areas that he had. In his words "the directions leave something to the imagination" seemed correct.
6. to install the bolt in the new battery tray your going to need a hammer and a block of wood, it takes some gentle forcing. see pic below. you want this bolt as far to the outside as you can get it.
7. see pic of new tray location, three bolts hold it in place marked by red circles. The kit i received was missing the two bolts for the right hand side (nothing a quick trip to lowes couldn't fix)
8. you have to relocate a mounting for some air hoses, put it down as far as possible (lower then the instructions call for) this will allow for more room for the new air intake hose.
9. Firewall time. Remove the plastic brackets that hold the wiring harness in place then use a wrench to break off the metal studs by wiggling them around a bit. Cut away the insulation at the firewall.
10. Put the metal firewall template in place and drill 1/8 holes so it can be mounted. Rivet it in place. This metal template was a great idea and makes drilling the hole much easier. your going to notice there is no solid place for you to put the center bit for the hole saw that will stabilize it while you drill. The metal template will keep the hole saw in its place and allow you to drill the holes effectively. Use the 3 1/4 hole saw for this hole and the cowl.
11. Grow some balls....your about to cut a hole in your brand new 2012, and not a little one. Your going to cut throw two pieces of metal here, then get to some fiberglass insulation, then one more piece of metal until the hole is complete. Take your time. Pull the wiring harness down while you drill the hole, see pic.
12. Now grow some bigger balls as your going to drill the hole in the cowl where people can see if you mess it up.. using the attached template mark where you will be drilling the hole with a center dent. See Pic. notice i did this in the seem which after the hole was drilled seemed like the best choice based on other clearance issues I will explain later. After you use the center dent a small drill bit < 1/8 inch and drill a pilot hole. One drill bit at a time work your way up to the 1/4 bit that is likely in your hole saw (remember you can change the bit in your hole saw if you desire) The reason to go from the smallest to largest bit is the location you are drilling the hole. A large bit right away is going to grab the panels and push them apart. It will also pull up on the panels and i was paranoid about putting a large dent in my cowl. Take your time. After you get throw the cowl and the body panel stop. After i got throw the cowl and the body panel was almost cut out i used a dremel to get it out. you will see the body panel takes a vertical bend and drilling would be difficult. Yes you will see some material below but the nice people at jeep we kind enough just to cover it with some painted tape leaving the perfect space to put an aftermarket snorkel.
13. Remove the Cowl. This is quite a challenge. First take off the bolts holding on the windshield wipers. The windshield wipers are a bit difficult to pop off. Put down a towel to protect the pain on your cowl and then tap the base of the wiper with a rubber mallet and it should pop right off. (this took a good 15 mins to figure out) There are 2 clips that slide in below the windshield to attach the cowl and some of those finned pins that hold it down. Remove the four bolts that hold down the cowl then open the hood. using a screwdriver (min was wrapped in painters tape to prevent scratches) pop out those finned pins. at this point a three man team is recommended. you will have to open and close the hood in various positions to slide the cowl out. I tapped areas i was worried about scratching with painters tape, see pic. (i felt the 3" hole was damage enough)
14. If you haven't started to touch up the paint and deburr. Remember to do this at every place your cutting.
15. Before inserting the firewall fitting and riveting it in place attach the new intake hose. that bundle of wires will go below the new hose. This is a giant pain and took a good 30 mins after the fitting was mounted. The 35 degree weather didn't help with flexing the rubber.
16. attach the firewall fitting using rivets and a healthy bead of silicone.
17. remove that painted tape under the body panel (just kind of bend it up gently) and attach the 90 degree hose, make sure the hose clamp is already on the elbow and you can tighten it after you are on the firewall fitting.
18. the rubber pad they provided with this kit was a literal piece of crap. The rubber was cracked and dried. when i pulled off the backside before i stuck on it the thing broke into pieces. I used some foil tape here instead, I'd recommend painting it. put on the hose clamp that will connect the elbow to the cowl fitting. the easiest way to tighten this later will be to open the hood and reach under it.
19. Determine where you want to attach the snorkel fitting to the cowl fitting and drill the holes for the rivets that will hold it in place ( you can do this later but it will send metal shards into your air filter (ouch). after your cowl and body panel are back together put in the cowl fitting. take your time this is tight. twisting it in place helps. rivet it in place as instructed. the long side goes down so the side with the weld will be up.
20. Put the battery back in. Before reinstalling the air box cut the hust going into the throttle body as described. attach the elbow and pipe fitting to the airbox outlet before installing it. attach the new intake hose the the new inlet. Now reinstall the airbox. Make sure your caulk around the holes in the fittings that hold the bottom in place. Remember your intake and outlet got flipped.
21. If you plan on reusing the filter from before cut of the tab that ensures in is placed in the right way. this will allow you to flip it over and put it in the air box.
22. attach that metal pipe to the hose at the throttle body you had to cut.
23. attach the snorkel fitting and rivet it in place.
Near the end its pretty self explanatory.
If you would like any more details please feel free to ask. I hope this is helpful. don't get me wrong i was nervous about drilling the holes in a 5 month old jeep, but i'm pretty satisfied with the final result. It seems like there is plenty of room for the air hose to get pushed down a little when the hood closes. I was a little worried about it at first.
![snorkel cut off.jpg]()
![snorkel outlet.jpg]()
![new outlet.jpg]()
![battery tray bolt.JPG]()
![battery tray new location.JPG]()
After you have the air box out its time to start marking up and cutting. (i used a dremel with a small cut off wheel for all the cuts in the airbox, made it easy work) The direction of flow in the air box is going to reverse from the factory style so there is two new holes that need to be cut and two holes that will need plugged up.
1. The first step is to remove the factory snorkel from the airbox, i did this by cutting Us around the rivets then pulling it out. you will have to cut off the flange that the snorkel attached with making all the edges flush with the side of the air box. This hole will be covered up with a flat stainless plate later.
2. On the opposite side of where you removed the factory snorkel you will need to trim of three ribs in the side of the air box. as you can see in the picture i cut out underneath the lip as well so i could fit the template and the fitting provided all the way against the underside of the lip (this keeps the fitting flat on the face of the air box and makes it easier to seal. after you determine where the hole needs to be drilled using the template provided drill using a 3" hole saw. Before drilling any holes in the airbox look inside at the surface you will be drilling into, the air box has some internal ribs you will need to trim. (the directions call for a 3 1/8 hole saw, i did all air box cuts with a 3" then used a sanding attachment on the dremel to enlarge the holes if required, i didn't want to drill them too big and leave excess wiggle room for the fittings).
3. Now on the previous exit on the factory snorkel you will need to cut off a few ribs and drill a hole for the new intake location into the airbox. use the template provided and take your time. I would align the new fitting to make sure it has a flush fit before drilling your holes.
4. Finishing off the airbox. At this point i got a bit distracted with the install and stopped taking pictures at every step. (sorry) For each hole you cut and need to patch up place the fitting on the air box and mark where you need to drill holes for the provided bolts. After you have drilled all the provided holes look inside the air box and ensure there is nothing in the way that will get in the way of putting on the nuts (there will be a few) After you clear out any obstacles with a dremel and utility knife do a solid cleaning of the interior of the airbox. Get out all of those plastic shards and any dirt that you have pulled in the factory snorkel REMEMBER your air flow direction will be changing. After its cleaned up lay down a good bead of black silicone caulking and place in each fitting, set this all aside. The factory outlet on the airbox will need to be capped with the provided cap, use a generous amount of caulking.
Set this all aside and let it firm up while you work on the battery.
5. My friend actually did the battery relocation work while i was on the airbox, so I'll try to give you the key problem areas that he had. In his words "the directions leave something to the imagination" seemed correct.
6. to install the bolt in the new battery tray your going to need a hammer and a block of wood, it takes some gentle forcing. see pic below. you want this bolt as far to the outside as you can get it.
7. see pic of new tray location, three bolts hold it in place marked by red circles. The kit i received was missing the two bolts for the right hand side (nothing a quick trip to lowes couldn't fix)
8. you have to relocate a mounting for some air hoses, put it down as far as possible (lower then the instructions call for) this will allow for more room for the new air intake hose.
9. Firewall time. Remove the plastic brackets that hold the wiring harness in place then use a wrench to break off the metal studs by wiggling them around a bit. Cut away the insulation at the firewall.
10. Put the metal firewall template in place and drill 1/8 holes so it can be mounted. Rivet it in place. This metal template was a great idea and makes drilling the hole much easier. your going to notice there is no solid place for you to put the center bit for the hole saw that will stabilize it while you drill. The metal template will keep the hole saw in its place and allow you to drill the holes effectively. Use the 3 1/4 hole saw for this hole and the cowl.
11. Grow some balls....your about to cut a hole in your brand new 2012, and not a little one. Your going to cut throw two pieces of metal here, then get to some fiberglass insulation, then one more piece of metal until the hole is complete. Take your time. Pull the wiring harness down while you drill the hole, see pic.
12. Now grow some bigger balls as your going to drill the hole in the cowl where people can see if you mess it up.. using the attached template mark where you will be drilling the hole with a center dent. See Pic. notice i did this in the seem which after the hole was drilled seemed like the best choice based on other clearance issues I will explain later. After you use the center dent a small drill bit < 1/8 inch and drill a pilot hole. One drill bit at a time work your way up to the 1/4 bit that is likely in your hole saw (remember you can change the bit in your hole saw if you desire) The reason to go from the smallest to largest bit is the location you are drilling the hole. A large bit right away is going to grab the panels and push them apart. It will also pull up on the panels and i was paranoid about putting a large dent in my cowl. Take your time. After you get throw the cowl and the body panel stop. After i got throw the cowl and the body panel was almost cut out i used a dremel to get it out. you will see the body panel takes a vertical bend and drilling would be difficult. Yes you will see some material below but the nice people at jeep we kind enough just to cover it with some painted tape leaving the perfect space to put an aftermarket snorkel.
13. Remove the Cowl. This is quite a challenge. First take off the bolts holding on the windshield wipers. The windshield wipers are a bit difficult to pop off. Put down a towel to protect the pain on your cowl and then tap the base of the wiper with a rubber mallet and it should pop right off. (this took a good 15 mins to figure out) There are 2 clips that slide in below the windshield to attach the cowl and some of those finned pins that hold it down. Remove the four bolts that hold down the cowl then open the hood. using a screwdriver (min was wrapped in painters tape to prevent scratches) pop out those finned pins. at this point a three man team is recommended. you will have to open and close the hood in various positions to slide the cowl out. I tapped areas i was worried about scratching with painters tape, see pic. (i felt the 3" hole was damage enough)
14. If you haven't started to touch up the paint and deburr. Remember to do this at every place your cutting.
15. Before inserting the firewall fitting and riveting it in place attach the new intake hose. that bundle of wires will go below the new hose. This is a giant pain and took a good 30 mins after the fitting was mounted. The 35 degree weather didn't help with flexing the rubber.
16. attach the firewall fitting using rivets and a healthy bead of silicone.
17. remove that painted tape under the body panel (just kind of bend it up gently) and attach the 90 degree hose, make sure the hose clamp is already on the elbow and you can tighten it after you are on the firewall fitting.
18. the rubber pad they provided with this kit was a literal piece of crap. The rubber was cracked and dried. when i pulled off the backside before i stuck on it the thing broke into pieces. I used some foil tape here instead, I'd recommend painting it. put on the hose clamp that will connect the elbow to the cowl fitting. the easiest way to tighten this later will be to open the hood and reach under it.
19. Determine where you want to attach the snorkel fitting to the cowl fitting and drill the holes for the rivets that will hold it in place ( you can do this later but it will send metal shards into your air filter (ouch). after your cowl and body panel are back together put in the cowl fitting. take your time this is tight. twisting it in place helps. rivet it in place as instructed. the long side goes down so the side with the weld will be up.
20. Put the battery back in. Before reinstalling the air box cut the hust going into the throttle body as described. attach the elbow and pipe fitting to the airbox outlet before installing it. attach the new intake hose the the new inlet. Now reinstall the airbox. Make sure your caulk around the holes in the fittings that hold the bottom in place. Remember your intake and outlet got flipped.
21. If you plan on reusing the filter from before cut of the tab that ensures in is placed in the right way. this will allow you to flip it over and put it in the air box.
22. attach that metal pipe to the hose at the throttle body you had to cut.
23. attach the snorkel fitting and rivet it in place.
Near the end its pretty self explanatory.
If you would like any more details please feel free to ask. I hope this is helpful. don't get me wrong i was nervous about drilling the holes in a 5 month old jeep, but i'm pretty satisfied with the final result. It seems like there is plenty of room for the air hose to get pushed down a little when the hood closes. I was a little worried about it at first.
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1,956 Posts
Thank you for posting this!
Interesting stuff!
How are you liking it on a day-to-day basis?
Are you getting any additional noise at highway speeds?
Interesting stuff!
How are you liking it on a day-to-day basis?
Are you getting any additional noise at highway speeds?
Day to day, fine, its pretty much a silent mushroom growing on my hood. No more noise at highway....I think my mileage may have gone up a bit but i'll have to wait til i do some more highway driving (i was getting bout 22mpg with my top down avg speed 65ish the other day. got to be better with the top up.)
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589 Posts
I am pretty sure I had posted here...
I have a Ripp Supercharger and did this install and nothing was right for mine.
The ripp can they said buy ust not be the one ripp is selling in carbon fiber because it didnt fit with a 90 turn off the supercharger it landed half way into the TPIM fuse box...not even close, the adapter rubber hose to go from ripp can to the supercharger was the wrong size, I cut my existing one and used it to fill the gap.
The Template to drill the fire wall hole was wrong size and a 3-1/4" hole saw wouldnt fit same brand they use at river raider for installs....
I could not rout the tube they way they showed so I did it my way.
Im in at 900 bucks but it does work I have to remove the hose assembly to drain any water but its in and working...
I have a Ripp Supercharger and did this install and nothing was right for mine.
The ripp can they said buy ust not be the one ripp is selling in carbon fiber because it didnt fit with a 90 turn off the supercharger it landed half way into the TPIM fuse box...not even close, the adapter rubber hose to go from ripp can to the supercharger was the wrong size, I cut my existing one and used it to fill the gap.
The Template to drill the fire wall hole was wrong size and a 3-1/4" hole saw wouldnt fit same brand they use at river raider for installs....
I could not rout the tube they way they showed so I did it my way.
Im in at 900 bucks but it does work I have to remove the hose assembly to drain any water but its in and working...
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589 Posts
I continued as shown...
I refused to be beat and I continued...
Directions sucked and were so black in the set they sent me you couldnt see anything in the pictures luckily I had seen them online in pdf and saved the link, but still very lacking ...
I dont know who wrote that write up there about them being good made no mention of how to get bolts installed for bottom of battery tray basically here is your tray two holes look at pic and make or figure it out I also was missing a nut for one of the tray mount bolts.
The hole saw template as mentioned wouldnt fit the bit inside so I had to free hand cut a 3 and a 1/4 hole ever try that...25 minutes later I got it through the inner was cake...
you can see my fingers inside the excess of the adapter hose they sent me lucky for me it is flexible and thin so I could shove my existing one after cut inside to fill the gap...
No mention of what to do with Crankcase breather or PVC tube that connects to the Ripp factory breather so I had to get creative there also.....
I refused to be beat and I continued...
Directions sucked and were so black in the set they sent me you couldnt see anything in the pictures luckily I had seen them online in pdf and saved the link, but still very lacking ...
I dont know who wrote that write up there about them being good made no mention of how to get bolts installed for bottom of battery tray basically here is your tray two holes look at pic and make or figure it out I also was missing a nut for one of the tray mount bolts.
The hole saw template as mentioned wouldnt fit the bit inside so I had to free hand cut a 3 and a 1/4 hole ever try that...25 minutes later I got it through the inner was cake...
you can see my fingers inside the excess of the adapter hose they sent me lucky for me it is flexible and thin so I could shove my existing one after cut inside to fill the gap...
No mention of what to do with Crankcase breather or PVC tube that connects to the Ripp factory breather so I had to get creative there also.....
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Also no mention....
About over ten day processing time and 129 restock fee if you cancel.
Keep going Im half way through the 2 hr install that took ten...
So I couldnt make the 90 they also forgot to send that part
It also was too long and would not clear even my DV8 Hood to get around tipm...
So I thought outside the box a bit I cut out the factory air box location...
Looked down beside the battery tray and said I bet my 3 1/4 in hole saw will fit it just did and I cut a hole out through the bottom...
Then I installed all the wiring back to the battery I had to lengthen 4 so it took a few minutes...
I also had to install 2 new terminal lugs and I basically cleaned up the wiring a bit while there...
Then I cut the firewall and then the hood and that part went ok...
About over ten day processing time and 129 restock fee if you cancel.
Keep going Im half way through the 2 hr install that took ten...
So I couldnt make the 90 they also forgot to send that part
It also was too long and would not clear even my DV8 Hood to get around tipm...
So I thought outside the box a bit I cut out the factory air box location...
Looked down beside the battery tray and said I bet my 3 1/4 in hole saw will fit it just did and I cut a hole out through the bottom...
Then I installed all the wiring back to the battery I had to lengthen 4 so it took a few minutes...
I also had to install 2 new terminal lugs and I basically cleaned up the wiring a bit while there...
Then I cut the firewall and then the hood and that part went ok...
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Next I pulled the hose in and routed it...
from the firewall to the ripp can...
Ok I drilled a hole up there and used a bolt to thread it so I could screw in the PVC pipe from Valve cover...
Then with spacer cut off old Filter boot I installed ripp can and pushed it under the frame brace for the fender, I tun inner fenders so I just removed it and worked along underneath...
Then yanked the hose up through the hole beside battery tray...and went to fire wall.
When you install the rubber 90 its pretty firm, but they should be a little more clear about, you slide the hose clamp on the firewall side first, That they do mention, then you go ahead and put the piece for the cowl on then slide the top through plate down and reach under the cowl from the front, Thats the part they dont mention at all...
and you move the hose clamp up and then screw it tight from the front looking toward passenger seat.
Then comes the 18 inch riser stack ...
They also make no mention if you are running pod lights or Jeep lights mounted to a Pillar they short set up will not clear...
So you do need an extension pipe...
Then look close you can see the slits in it and they are cut way to long...
IO had 3/8" gaps all four sides I could see daylight straight out the other side...On a snorkel extension? Really
from the firewall to the ripp can...
Ok I drilled a hole up there and used a bolt to thread it so I could screw in the PVC pipe from Valve cover...
Then with spacer cut off old Filter boot I installed ripp can and pushed it under the frame brace for the fender, I tun inner fenders so I just removed it and worked along underneath...
Then yanked the hose up through the hole beside battery tray...and went to fire wall.
When you install the rubber 90 its pretty firm, but they should be a little more clear about, you slide the hose clamp on the firewall side first, That they do mention, then you go ahead and put the piece for the cowl on then slide the top through plate down and reach under the cowl from the front, Thats the part they dont mention at all...
and you move the hose clamp up and then screw it tight from the front looking toward passenger seat.
Then comes the 18 inch riser stack ...
They also make no mention if you are running pod lights or Jeep lights mounted to a Pillar they short set up will not clear...
So you do need an extension pipe...
Then look close you can see the slits in it and they are cut way to long...
IO had 3/8" gaps all four sides I could see daylight straight out the other side...On a snorkel extension? Really
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Here is another note...
When you drill the center hole for the guide drill bit for hole saw on the hood I see the one pictured above and its on the cowl piece It actually goes directly in the seam not on the upper cowl cover solely...in the gap is true center...
and they also installed the plate without rotating it to get proper alignment if you look close their set up is crooked coming off the hood...
Mine is dead nuts on...
So I had the extension and I said I got this..the tube was high...
I drive in to apt and I get retardation...lol I get an engine starved of air and sputtering when I kick down the passing gear, so I let off a bit it stops and i just ease on home for the day...
Next morning I stop bye home depot and pick up some grey conduit flexible.(Not much) 3/4" and sleeve the outer tube so it now is collapse proof...then I reattach all the 3 inch hoses and install inner fender...
When you drill the center hole for the guide drill bit for hole saw on the hood I see the one pictured above and its on the cowl piece It actually goes directly in the seam not on the upper cowl cover solely...in the gap is true center...
and they also installed the plate without rotating it to get proper alignment if you look close their set up is crooked coming off the hood...
Mine is dead nuts on...
So I had the extension and I said I got this..the tube was high...
I drive in to apt and I get retardation...lol I get an engine starved of air and sputtering when I kick down the passing gear, so I let off a bit it stops and i just ease on home for the day...
Next morning I stop bye home depot and pick up some grey conduit flexible.(Not much) 3/4" and sleeve the outer tube so it now is collapse proof...then I reattach all the 3 inch hoses and install inner fender...
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589 Posts
Last I grab the cut off wheel
And take to the extension...
First I shorten the bottom with slits so now there will be no gaps in the attached location
Then I take a good portion off the top so it will clear my pods and not be so high up ...
Then I add a rubber boot so it looks good...
Some of the worse instructions.
Some of the worse fabrication supplied for parts and missing parts and huge delay in processing I have seen
The absolute worst install I ever had to engineer and get through.
Not to mention to remove any water in the system I have to remove the 3" hose with the sleeved conduit in it at the Ripp can to drain...
I can live with that...
I also was committed to the install once I started chopping holes in stuff and I would not do it again I gained 1 foot or so for 900 bucks and took 10 hours for a 2 hour install...
The end
And take to the extension...
First I shorten the bottom with slits so now there will be no gaps in the attached location
Then I take a good portion off the top so it will clear my pods and not be so high up ...
Then I add a rubber boot so it looks good...
Some of the worse instructions.
Some of the worse fabrication supplied for parts and missing parts and huge delay in processing I have seen
The absolute worst install I ever had to engineer and get through.
Not to mention to remove any water in the system I have to remove the 3" hose with the sleeved conduit in it at the Ripp can to drain...
I can live with that...
I also was committed to the install once I started chopping holes in stuff and I would not do it again I gained 1 foot or so for 900 bucks and took 10 hours for a 2 hour install...
The end
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