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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to convince myself I can do this lift by myself. I'm wanting to attempt the 3.5" lift but am a little nervous understanding how to set the lengths correctly, installing, torquing, and Loctite.

Is there a step by step guide to setting this correctly? Im not sure when and where to put Loctite.

Do I measure and get the jam nuts (these are what tighten down each joint right?) snuggle? Then install each into the jeep, correct the angles of each joint and then torque down?

After the lift installed, I set it down and torque down completely? RK provides pretty "close" lengths but how do I know the lengths are truly correct for my Jeep?
 

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RK list their lengths In the instructions. There's a lot to lift but read this. It will give you a good idea on what each arm does. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/newbys-guide-to-lifting-your-jk-298665.html

Jam nuts are going to be a pain in the ass. You need to tighten those things as tight as possible
250-300 ft lbs.
I recommend a large Crescent wrench. I bought one front HF for $20

Too much to list so do what you can. Any questions post as you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.

For example, here is the front track bar. I have tried to get the threads on each side pretty equal and have measured center to center at 32 5/8".

I would then install on jeep, straighten angles, and tighten down after the jeep weight is down. When do I put the loctite on?
 

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Ok let me try to give you a quick run down

- install coils/bump stops
- lower arms set to RK's lengths.
Fronts are going to be around 231/8 or so. Rears 1" over stock (x factor kit)
front uppers are going to set your caster angle. Pretty positive RK shoots for 4.5 (stock)
- loosely install front uppers and measure the pinion angle (this will tell you caster http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/jeep-jk-caster-and-lifting-502001.html)
-rear uppers are going to set rear pinion angle.
I'm not to sure what RK targets. Too much will bow the coils and cause other interference issues With the lift the pinion is going to raise anyways. 2-3 degrees (with oem shaft) below DS angle should be ok.
- once you have front caster/rear pinion set. Now it's time to torque everything down. (Whatever it takes) Some like to bolt one end up and leverage against the mount. Others remove one at a time, mount into a vice to tighten.
- bolt up shocks, sway bar links/relo, rear track bar bracket.
- lastly the track bars
On flat ground you need to determine how much shift is present. Front is going to be prob about 1/2 to the driver side (maybe a bit more). Take that number and divide in Half. Add that to the stock TB length. Tighten the jam nuts and bolt it up.
- rear axle won't be as far off with the relocation bracket. It's going to be close to stock. Just make sure you rotate the curve out away from the coils/bumpstops.

Hops this helps ..... Some :)
 

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I'm trying to convince myself I can do this lift by myself. I'm wanting to attempt the 3.5" lift but am a little nervous understanding how to set the lengths correctly, installing, torquing, and Loctite.

Is there a step by step guide to setting this correctly? Im not sure when and where to put Loctite.

Do I measure and get the jam nuts (these are what tighten down each joint right?) snuggle? Then install each into the jeep, correct the angles of each joint and then torque down?

After the lift installed, I set it down and torque down completely? RK provides pretty "close" lengths but how do I know the lengths are truly correct for my Jeep?
I went through the same worries about a month ago. Asked the same questions.

I did it by myself and took two weekends. Measure each arm three times. For the control arms, I would do one arm, count the number of turns and then apply the same number of turns to the other, then measure again. The zerk fittings should be pointing in the same direction for pairs of arms.

Forget the locktite until your happy, as you'll have a few adjustments. I used blue on mine instead of red, because you probably will have to adjust and the red has torque rating of like 300 ft lbs to loosen.

I wasn't happy until I took it to a 4x4 shop for an alignment. Now I'm going through and finalizing stuff with a grade 8 bolt upgrade and resetting a few of the joints the 4x4 shop misaligned.

The point being when you think your done your not done, if this is your first time (like me).

BTW, I focused on the arms so much, but you'll spend more time on other things. Before you do the springs, do the brake lines. I didn't use a coil compressor, so with the longer lines, I was able to drop the axle far enough to slide the old out and the new in.

Also, careful with the rear shock bolts, the go in at a weird angle and I happened to cross thread one.

Last advice you need at least two jacks and 4 jack stands (min) I used 5 at one point.
 
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