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I have the plate on my 2015. It's fairly straight forward to install and James does a good job in the video on the RockHard site of explaining the steps. The plate is solid and mounts in slots already present on the frame--no drilling. A few suggestions:

1. If you plan on changing/plastidipping the grille I would do it now. It's a pain to loosen up the bumper and winch plate/winch after it's installed so you can get the grille off. Same with headlights

2. I would paint/bedline the mounting plate before you install. The powder coat on mine didn't last long and I had rust coming through in less than a year. I had the same problem with my sliders and ended up bedlining them as well.

3. The bolts that come with it aren't quite long enough, especially on the side with the vacuum pump. Not very many threads catch before it tightens up. I believe I got bolts that were 1/2" longer. Make sure you get Grade 8 bolts.

Other than that the plate is strong and is a great alternative to a new bumper. A winch plus the plate is heavy so a 1" or so spacer may be needed on the front to level it back out.
 

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^^^good advice. Also, attach your winch to the plate BEFORE you put bumper back on. Bolts go through bottom of plate, upward, and aren't accessible once bumper is on. (Self-corrected HUA moment ��). Plate is solid and it's nice not having to relocate pump.
 

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I installed this plate last night (2016 JKUR.) It was a very smooth install, except one thing, which was a major annoyance.

The 1/2" bolt that goes on the side of the vacuum pump is too short.

RockHard announced it was a powder coat issue, but I don't think it is. Even after doing what they said, to run the bolt in and out to remove the powder-coat, it still wouldn't catch with the two washers on it. I ended up picking up a 3/4" Grade 8 Bolt, which worked like a charm. The original one is too short because the bolt has to go through the hole in the frame, PLUS the bracket that holds the vacuum pump.

I still used the 1/2" bolt on the passenger side where there isn't a bracket for the pump.

Once I had the longer bolt, I had everything installed quickly. You don't need to install the Winch before installing the plate, but you do need to secure the winch to the plate before putting the bumper back on. I think the torque recommendation was 35-40lbs.

The whole install took about 3 hours, only because of all the time I spent trying to get that one bolt threaded. It would have only taken me 1-1.5 hours if I had a 3/4" bolt in the first place for the driver side. I had a friend help, which sped things up a bit.
 

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Had one on mine for close to 4 years now. Had a decent amount of usage. I'd buy it again. No powder coat issues, no rust looks like it did when purchased. Mounted a wan 9.5cti or whatever on it. Install isn't 15 minutes and there are some tight spots, but nothing to get too riled up about.
 

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I had an issue with the bolt as well but mine was on the opposite side of the vacuum pump, probably because I did the vacuum pump first. anyways, I got it figured out and I love both of my RockHard Products (winch plate and sliders) they are quality and I've had no trouble with the powder coat either. They make great products and I love having American made accessories on my Jeep.

Hope this helps!
 

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Does anyone have a link to the recommended bolts? I've been searching for 3/4" grade 8 bolts and not having much luck.
 

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I have one of theses as well. No issues although installing it at the same time as adding the OEM Mopar skid plate was a major PIA!
 
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I installed this plate last night (2016 JKUR.) It was a very smooth install, except one thing, which was a major annoyance.

The 1/2" bolt that goes on the side of the vacuum pump is too short.

RockHard announced it was a powder coat issue, but I don't think it is. Even after doing what they said, to run the bolt in and out to remove the powder-coat, it still wouldn't catch with the two washers on it. I ended up picking up a 3/4" Grade 8 Bolt, which worked like a charm. The original one is too short because the bolt has to go through the hole in the frame, PLUS the bracket that holds the vacuum pump.

I still used the 1/2" bolt on the passenger side where there isn't a bracket for the pump.

Once I had the longer bolt, I had everything installed quickly. You don't need to install the Winch before installing the plate, but you do need to secure the winch to the plate before putting the bumper back on. I think the torque recommendation was 35-40lbs.

The whole install took about 3 hours, only because of all the time I spent trying to get that one bolt threaded. It would have only taken me 1-1.5 hours if I had a 3/4" bolt in the first place for the driver side. I had a friend help, which sped things up a bit.
I had the same issue and replaced the bolts with longer ones too. Great product overall.
 

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Does anyone have a link to the recommended bolts? I've been searching for 3/4" grade 8 bolts and not having much luck.
I got mine at Home Depot. I took the 1/2" long bolt in and they had one 3/4" in length in grade 8, it was gold colored.
 

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Does anyone have a link to the recommended bolts? I've been searching for 3/4" grade 8 bolts and not having much luck.
There are several places to buy Grade 8 bolts. Fastenal stores are all over. You can order online from Amazon or McMaster Carr. Here is a bolt head identifier so you will know what to look for. I also buy quite a bit from Zoro.com.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx


some more info

Inch screws are marked on the head with six radial lines to indicate Grade 8. Screws have a minimum Rockwell hardness of C33 and a Class 2A thread fit. They also meet ASME B18.2.1 and SAE J429. Screws with material certification come with a traceable lot number and a physical and chemical report.

Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated—Screws are rust resistant.

Corrosion Resistant Coated—Also known as ultra coat and armor coat, these zinc-aluminum plated screws have a silver-colored coating and are five times as corrosion resistant as standard zinc-plated screws. Use with ultra corrosion-resistant coated nuts and washers.

They should be approx $5 a bolt 3/4-10unc x 1-3/4 zinc chromate. I am an engineer but I do most the purchasing for our company. I hope this helps.
 

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A couple questions for the experts!

I just received my winch, plate and a low profile roller fairlead. They all look great and I hope to install this weekend. While test fitting a few things and taking inventory, I realized that the fairlead requires new holes to be drilled. However, if I line it up centered, there is not enough clearance from the existing holes in the winch plate. I can use one existing hole, and off-set the fairlead a little bit, then drill a new hole on the other side. There is plenty of clearance on the cut-out, and the winch mounting holes are slotted so I can adjust the winch over just a little bit to line it all up. The straight pic shows it off-set to the left about a half an inch. Just trying to decide if I want to do this. Any thoughts? I like the low profile fairlead over the regular size - and it does save some weight. Regular fairlead lines up perfectly.

I'm thinking if I off-set the fairlead to the driver's side, then mount the solenoid over the winch motor on the passenger's side, it kind of balances out a bit. Or maybe I'm crazy.

Also, folks have been discussing the bolt length. It looks like mine may have shipped with longer bolts? Although, they are grade 5, not 8. Any thoughts on this?
 

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A couple questions for the experts!

I just received my winch, plate and a low profile roller fairlead. They all look great and I hope to install this weekend. While test fitting a few things and taking inventory, I realized that the fairlead requires new holes to be drilled. However, if I line it up centered, there is not enough clearance from the existing holes in the winch plate. I can use one existing hole, and off-set the fairlead a little bit, then drill a new hole on the other side. There is plenty of clearance on the cut-out, and the winch mounting holes are slotted so I can adjust the winch over just a little bit to line it all up. The straight pic shows it off-set to the left about a half an inch. Just trying to decide if I want to do this. Any thoughts? I like the low profile fairlead over the regular size - and it does save some weight. Regular fairlead lines up perfectly.

I'm thinking if I off-set the fairlead to the driver's side, then mount the solenoid over the winch motor on the passenger's side, it kind of balances out a bit. Or maybe I'm crazy.

Also, folks have been discussing the bolt length. It looks like mine may have shipped with longer bolts? Although, they are grade 5, not 8. Any thoughts on this?
I'd assume offsetting half an inch is okay - i bet if you emailed RH4X4 they'd either confirm or deny.
I dug my unused/too-short bolts out - they have only 3/4" of thread, so yours appear longer. My unused bolts are grade 5. I replaced both with grade 8, and longer (i forget if i bought 1", 1-1/4" or 1-1/2"). The vaccum pump bracket added thickness on the drivers side so needed longer. My hunch is that grade 5 is sufficient since the bolts hold the brackets down in a slot and a lot of the load is probably on the tow hooks. But if replacing why not grade 8.
 

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Thanks. I might just pick up some 1-1/4" grade 8 bolts anyway. Would hate to be just "that close" during an installation.
 

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Installed the Rock Hard winch plate yesterday on our 2016. Not a problem, used the two bolts that came with it. Did clean the threads first with a 1/2-13 tap. Bolt for the drivers side was plenty long enough. The bolts that came with ours were 1 inch. Getting the bumper back on was a little hard but that was do to the home made roller fair lead which is higher then norm. This allows a guide to lay the wire rope better when spooling in. It's kind of a variant on bait casting reals.
 
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