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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
RK's normal x-factor control arms move the rear axle back over 1" In some cases this can cause a few issues if the installer or xxx shop did not set them up correctly. The swaybar needs to be moved back 1"to clear the bump stops and UCA mounts. A wider bodied shock can come in contact with the track bar bracket. Bowed coils. 2 doors will have more issues because of pinion correction.
I did not want to move the axle back 1", just enough to center the axles in the wheel wells. Lifted 3.5" only requires maybe .5 over stock on the lowers.

RK has 2 part numbers for rear lower CA's. One short (run with stock uppers) and 1 set of uppers (longer and run with the longer lowers) This year RK is releasing a shorter set of rear uppers to be run with the shorter lowers.

RK will also custom cut any arm length you want. I wanted at least .5 on my rear lowers, and enough to set pinion with the uppers. You'll see even .5 the coils have s slight slant and the links contact.

I thought I'd try to clear the confusion when choosing RK arms. Of coarse RK's been great and always willing to help if you call.

Pics below
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
another important note. Understand yourself or whoever is installing the control arms. The arm lengths given in the instruction manual are only a starting point. The same set up may not work for two people. RK recommends a professional alignment after initial or baseline settings. This goes for any manufacture, not just RK
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know this is a huge help to ones looking at the RK control arm. I know we talked about it this weekend but glad you posted for others. My coils have a slight bow in the rear but the jeep performs and rides very smoothly so not sure if it's hurting anything.
A slight bow or slant is not going to cause any problems. My coils are not too bad but my axle is only moved back 1/2. If you're installing the Standard size X factor arms, relocating the perches , or installing a set of JKS adjustable perches Is a better route to take.
 

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I clearly see the difference between your pinion angle and mine here. Mine could definitely be rolled back a touch. Thanks Ken!
 

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Great info!! Glad to hear there'll be an option of uppers for me to compliment my max travel lowers if I have any issues down the road
 

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Ken, I was looking to upgrade or change all the hardware needed for the control arms. I looked up Northridge and what they had but with the discount I get at Fastenal I just decided to piece my own together. Any ways the 9/16 and 14mm don't seem to fit through My front uppers (adjustable side) do you happen to know the bolt size? I'd just bring the arm up there with me but I left in a rush and forgot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ken, I was looking to upgrade or change all the hardware needed for the control arms. I looked up Northridge and what they had but with the discount I get at Fastenal I just decided to piece my own together. Any ways the 9/16 and 14mm don't seem to fit through My front uppers (adjustable side) do you happen to know the bolt size? I'd just bring the arm up there with me but I left in a rush and forgot.
12mm (1/2 won't fit)

Lowers all = 14mm or 9/16

Rear uppers 14mm only.
 

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awesome thanks!
 

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I think i have like 50 zerks now. When we grease these are we suppose to pull the allen keys to prevent to much grease? I know they don't require much maintenance but i was curious about the keys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think i have like 50 zerks now. When we grease these are we suppose to pull the allen keys to prevent to much grease? I know they don't require much maintenance but i was curious about the keys.
The allen keys hold the retaining rings in place.
From what i see, these joints wont take much grease new.
 
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