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I have D44. I pulled the yokes and pinion seals out of both front and rear, in order to replace the seals. I had no loss of fluid.

D44 was pinion seal replacement was super-easy, though.
I only had to torque the pinion nut to specification on mine.

If you have D30 or D35 and you do have to do anything with the removing/installing yoke or pinion seal... You might have to do the old counting threads and marking the pinion and nut with the chisel, in order to get it back to proper tightness without damaging anything in the diff.

Just to rule out the front drive train...
With all four wheels in the air and in N, turn the yoke. See if you can feel (or hear) anything rubbing or binding
 

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If you tap the brakes does the noise stop or get better then start again? The way jeep designed the brake pads to ride directly on the knuckle was really stupid. Over the years where the pads touch the knuckle it wears into them then the pads cant fully release and then you can hear pads squeaking.




The early AMC XJ/YJ knuckles were different and you could replace the caliper mount without having to replace the whole knuckle. Once Chrysler took over they cheapened it up and made the entire knuckle disposable. Some people weld the Chrysler knuckles up instead of replacing them.

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
If you tap the brakes does the noise stop or get better then start again? The way jeep designed the brake pads to ride directly on the knuckle was really stupid. Over the years where the pads touch the knuckle it wears into them then the pads cant fully release and then you can hear pads squeaking.
I wish...brakes have no effect. I replaced all them anyways with wishful thinking, but yeah that did nothing. At least I've got all fresh brakes though haha.

Local transmission shop wants $600 to rebuild my NP231 (I don't have bearing presses or the workspace to do it myself).. but found a used one on DeadJeep for $300 shipped...I'm thinking about going that route..
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
I have D44. I pulled the yokes and pinion seals out of both front and rear, in order to replace the seals. I had no loss of fluid.

D44 was pinion seal replacement was super-easy, though.
I only had to torque the pinion nut to specification on mine.

If you have D30 or D35 and you do have to do anything with the removing/installing yoke or pinion seal... You might have to do the old counting threads and marking the pinion and nut with the chisel, in order to get it back to proper tightness without damaging anything in the diff.

Just to rule out the front drive train...
With all four wheels in the air and in N, turn the yoke. See if you can feel (or hear) anything rubbing or binding
I've got 44 in rear and 30 in front. I replaced the seal on the SYE output with no fluid loss, was just wondering about the front shaft output (from T-case).
 
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