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I was told by a jeep mechanic/builder that I should use royal purple motor oil rather then regular oil or even another brand of synthetic oil.

I have seen a you tube show were they have the oil in a little pan and run a bearing under load. Then show the bearing has less were with the royal purple. But i Have seen other such test with other oils and they claim there oil is better.

Is royal purple that good and is it worth the cost of about 50.00 for 6 qts of oil?

Thanks
 

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Royal Purple is an extremely good oil. I personally just use other brand synthetics ( money's tight) but if you have the cash, RP is well worth it.
 

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The 4.0L is not particular about brands of oil. I put in whatever dinosaur oil is on sale. Never had a problem in my TJ, my old YJ, or my mothers TJ.
 

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Royal Purple is a very good engine oil. So is Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol, Mobil, Mobil-1, Amsoil, Pennzoil, etc.

Royal Purple is nothing unusual aside from its unusually high cost. Its purple color is from nothing but a dye added for marketing purposes.
 

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I have been using RP in my wife's Jeep and my Dodge Ram for 3 years now and RP made a big difference in over performance in both vehicles. You can also go further between oil changes with RP and the RP filter. I have gone 11 months in between oil changes and the oil still looked good. Just to make sure the oil was still good I sent a sample out to have tested and the test came back with all good marks. I used to use Mobil 1 and I switched to RP when I got my truck, RP made the famous "Hemi tick" in my truck quieter then Mobil 1 which was put in there when I bought my truck.
 

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I've used Chevron for years, but the longest I ever keep a rig is about 15 years and 150,000 miles or so.
How long or how many miles do people keep their vehicles, so that expensive oils pay off?
Just curious, I've driven trucks with well over 600,000 miles that have never seen a designer oil.
 

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I've ran mobil one in everything. Torture tested it in my dads car. 210k with mobil 1 and no engine work done.
 

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I've ran mobil one in everything. Torture tested it in my dads car. 210k with mobil 1 and no engine work done.
I can say the same thing with a number of my engines that made it >200K miles on mineral-based engine oils like Valvoline.

Synthetic engine oils are not required to allow engines to last longer than that without problem. Both Mercedes Benz and Volvo used to run ads back in the 50's or early 60's touting customers whose engines made it past one million miles. And all engine oils back then on the store shelves were mineral based. Some seem to think that only engines running synthetics can make it that far. :)
 

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Jerry Bransford said:
I can say the same thing with a number of my engines that all made it >200K miles on mineral-based engine oils like Valvoline.

Synthetic engine oils are not required to allow engines to last longer than that without problem. :)
Can you say you only did an oil change every 12k miles?
 

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The only benefit of expensive oils is that when you sell your car the buyer might actually believe it makes a difference.

Just use a good quality oil with the correct viscosity.
 

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Can you say you only did an oil change every 12k miles?
Allow me to 'splain something about 12K oil changes.

Engines give off acids and combustion byproducts as a normal thing. The engine oil absorbs those acids and combustion byproducts. Synthetic and mineral-based engine oils absorb those contaminants at the same rate.

No conventional oil filter can filter out those types of contaminants.

So while the oil itself may last 12K miles, synthetic still gets just as dirty as mineral based oils do. So if you want to leave those contaminants in your engine oil that long, be my guest. That is the misleading advertising of synthetic oil producers... they don't tell you the whole story. Even if I would pay extra for synthetic motor oil, which I won't, I sure wouldn't run it for 12K miles. It still needs to be changed to get rid of those contaminants and at the same interval mineral based oil does... because both collect their contaminants at the same rate. :)
 

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Have no favorite oil. Right now I have Chevron 10w30 in my Jeep. I usually buy a case of oil at a time, that way I don't have to buy any the next time. Of course, I remember when a case of oil meant 24 quarts, not 12. Am I dating myself now. Also remember when the oils came in metal cans and then the switch to waxed cardboard. :whistling:
 

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I change mine at 8k. But if that many contaminates are left behind how has my dads car ran this long and strong?
 

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Jerry Bransford said:
Both types of oil collect contaminants at the same rate so really, it's a moot point.
Can you post a link to data backing that up please?
 

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I've had 3 vehicles that were still going strong at 200K plus when I traded them off. I've got 190K on my work van right now ('06 E-150). All used dino oil, and the company van goes 5k miles between changes. None of the these had any oil related problems while I owned them, and only the work van has ever had the engine worked on besides routine maintenance (injector and throttle body). The wife's Monte has 170k on it now, same deal. I see no reason to change what obviously works, and costs less.

Synthetics might have some good points, but as good as it might be, there's no way I would ever trust a filter for as many miles as they recommend between changes. Even if the synthetic did the job for 8 or 10k, I can't see the filter doing the job for that long.
 

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Can you post a link to data backing that up please?
Think about it... as explained before, engines generate combustion byproducts which includes acids. It's a natural part of combustion. Part of an engine oil's job is to flush away those contaminants which are absorbed by the engine oil and stay there until the engine oil is changed.

The same with fine silicates and dirt which gets past the air filter which enters the engine via the air intake. The oil filter can only filter out down to about the 4 micron level, smaller particulates stay in the oil. Only changing the oil gets rid of the fine dirt and the acids/combustion byproducts that no conventional oil can filter out.

What type or quality of oil used makes no difference on how fast these naturally occuring byproducts and fine silicate/dirt particulates from the air intake build up.
 

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Jerry Bransford said:
Think about it... as explained before, engines generate combustion byproducts which includes acids. It's a natural part of combustion. Part of an engine oil's job is to flush away those contaminants which are absorbed by the engine oil and stay there until the engine oil is changed.

The same with fine silicates and dirt which gets past the air filter which enters the engine via the air intake. The oil filter can only filter out down to about the 4 micron level, smaller particulates stay in the oil. Only changing the oil gets rid of the fine dirt and the acids/combustion byproducts that no conventional oil can filter out.

What type or quality of oil used makes no difference on how fast these naturally occuring byproducts and fine silicate/dirt particulates from the air intake build up.
Right. I understand your saying and believe that, but I'll change my mind if you can back it up :)
 

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Jerry is spot on. Better oils have better additive packages to keep contaminants in suspension and correct ph etc... But combustion is combustion. The rate at which contaminants are created has nothing to do with the oil.
 

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The most important thing is to get those contaminants out. That means changing the oil and filter at appropriate intervals. I recommend ~3k on reg oil, and ~6k on synthetic. I've seen the insides of many, many, engines, and its easy to tell who's hit their intervals, and who's missed.
 
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