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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found a heckuva deal on a set of upgraded Rubi axles and bought them to put on my Sport. I've read several combos of answers, but most were for bypassing the Rubi computer.

I have an in-cab winch control panel from 12voltguy. I'm hoping to have a new one built to include switches for the front and rear lockers. I'm not touching the CANBUS. Can someone explain in directions that a 5 year old can follow how these lockers need to be wired?
 

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I'm sure someone else will chime in here but I would think you can wire those up with a relay the same as you would a set of lights. I am looking for a set of Rubi axles for our Sport as well. From what I have heard, make sure you get the plug from the original wiring harness as it will make connecting it a lot easier.

I believe the following will work.
12v (fused) to your switch (pretty much any wire as this will be a small load only activating your relay), out of the switch to relay #86, ground relay #85, relay #87 to your locker, relay #30 12v from battery (fused heavier gauge wire suitable for the load of the locker)

When you flip the switch, it activates the relay allowing the power to go to the locker.

Hope this helps.
 

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just did it. I used the factory harness and cur off what I didnt need. The front ground wire splices in a couple places so after you cut what you dont need....follow the front ground and resplice it back together. Plugged into a fused relay then to my switch. I love my setup.
 

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This is exactly what I did with my Sahara! And as far as the wiring, I adhered to the old K.I.S.S. Method! I bought a Rubicon wiring harness, and just used the connectors from that, and soldered them to new wires. I just used heavy duty switches, no relays, etc. I ran a fused lead directly from the battery to the switches, then from the switches directly to the locker and this system has been absolutely trouble free! And when you guys do this, you MAY want to pull the little sensor for the dash light indicator out and plug the hole in the diff case. It seems as though this device is the main cause for problems with the Rubicon locker. When I regeared mine is when I discarded mine. While the axles are still out of the vehicle is a good time to do this, because the diff must be partially disassembled
In order to get the sensor out. Personally, I dont need an indicator to tell me if my diff is locked up or not.
I have never driven a Rubi, but from what I understand, there is a delay from when you press the button until it actually locks up. By bypassing the CANBUS, the lockup is instantaneous. :) Best of luck to you in your endeavors!
 

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reviving a dead thread to not start a new 1........................ gonna run JK Rubi axles under my TJ. found the rear locker power supply connector. but cannot find anything for the active/on beacon connector.

is this part of the jeep wiring (mates to pigtail on rear diff) and has to be salvaged? or does anyone know of a supplier for this connector? or maybe i remove the end and just splice into it?

or as i read more completely now ^^^^^ do i just eliminate it from the equation?
 

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You can eliminate it if you like.
I wired it up to a light in my OTRATTW switch to signal engagement, totally not necessary.
You can use a Wells 898 Pigtail Assembly to build a harness. Rock auto was the cheapest I found.



The letters on the switch light up with my lights, and the emblem lights up when the locker is actuated.

 
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