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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well a Rubicon is pricey!:rolleyes: (And you don't know where it has been.) And with adding bigger tires come a gear change,So why not just use a LJ and add a 44 up front( used take off),new gears,a set of lockers/LSD,tires/wheels and get a 4:1 transfer case(used take off). I was thinking this mite cut some cost? And it would be setup right. Maybe finding good used parts will be the problem?:banghead:
Thanks for the input! Randall:hide:
 

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All deppends on what kind/quality of parts you put on (auto vs selectable air lockers, ect). You may save some money or you may end up spending more than buying a rubi in the first place. Plus you have to factor in time spent on all the mods too, and if you cant do the work yourself forget it, it'll cost way more than just spending a couple grand more to get a rubi.

But the nice thing about building a "clone" is that you could take your time and spend the money on mods when you have it vs all up front on a rubi. You could also install higher end parts too like better rockers, better lockers, ect...

You should calculate out the cost of buying a rubi vs building an lj to rubi specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will bo all the work my self. I learned a few things away after 61 years. LOL:whistling:

It was more that I will need a gear change. Better diffs and all that.
The other thing was not knowing if the chassis was different?
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You can definetly build any Wrangler beyond the capabilities of a OEM Rubicon model. The big problem comes "if" you try to sell it...an actual Rubicon will probably still be worth more per KBB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you need to build it for you.:thumb: Resale ??? Its never going for what you got in to it!:banghead:
 

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It all kind of depends...I think either way you works, it just comes down to what you plan on doing with the jeep

Just for sh*ts and grins...

lets say an LJ costs 15,000 dollars and a Rubi of roughly the same year and mileage runs 20,000.

The Rubis advantage over the LJ is going to mainly be gears, lockers, and Tcase, and front axle...

So lets say you decide to go all out with ARBs Front and rear...you are looking at 1800 dollars just in lockers, probably another 200 dollars for a compressor to run your lockers.
Now your gears will probably run you...roughly 500 dollars in parts. The used tcase will probably run close to 800-1000 dollars if I were to guess. In all honesty, you will probably be fine running the stock front axle. The only difference between the front Dana 44 and the Dana 30 is the ring and pinion, which in most cases isnt the first part to fail on you.

So tallied up...in just parts...you are sitting at 3500 dollars.

If you have experience with a gear swap, it looks you will come out quite a bit ahead. Even if you have to pay someone to install the gears for you, you are probably looking at anywhere from 400-800 dollars in labor...which still puts you ahead.

So just some food for thought :thumb:

Most of the time people seem to recommend a Rubi if the person plans on offroading, but not modding much. However, if you are buying with intentions of modding everything out, buying a Rubi is a waste of money since most people will regear, eventually change the lockers anyways...and who knows what else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All good points!

I have found 2 maybe 3 for $10,000 to 13,000. This is what I can work from.All in good shape.Some high miles so the rework may be needed?

Being here in AZ I am looking at trails like the back way to Crown King,AZ. May not need the 4:1 but regearing will need to be for the 32/33" tires along with a 3" ? lift.

Not being into the rock thing anybe the 30 up front would be OK ?

Was feeling that a little overbuilding would cut down on braking things?

Thanks for the input,it will all be used!
 
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