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Air. Each locker has its own compressor located on the rear of the transfer case skidplate.
 

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Air! I've had disagreement about Rubi's lockers. Lots assume it's electronic. Plus some Jeepers can't believe that these air actuators put out just over 10psi to engage!
 

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Air! I've had disagreement about Rubi's lockers. Lots assume it's electronic. Plus some Jeepers can't believe that these air actuators put out just over 10psi to engage!
10psi to actuate? My local shop said these Rubicon compressor are low pressure, 4-9psi, pumps?

Not that it matters much I'm just curious now.
 

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So i just bought a 2004 Rubicon are my lockers the same, were can I find these lines and can I get under it to see.
Rubicon lockers are the same (Air) from 03-06 then they changed to electric in 07-present
 

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Can you install rubi lockers on a 2005 sport? or is it better going with aftermarket and if aftermarket are better which kind??
ARB's air lockers are a better/more reliable air locker. I'd rather have ARB lockers in my Rubicon than its OE lockers that I have already had to repair with two replacement air pumps and a new air bladder inside the rear locker.
 

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With that being said and me just buying this jeep, i tested the 4 wheel drive but how can i determine if they are working properly
 

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No issues with my '04 Rubicon lockers but recent install of a Metalcloak long arm kit led to the shop routing the air line along the upper control arm and it pulled off at full droop. The light on the dash continued to blink, letting me know the locker wasn't engaging. I'm going to extend the line with a section of hose and a barb fitting, but now I'm thinking of a trail repair scenario:
Say the factory air pumps fail. I'll add a 1/4 NPT mini brass ball valve with a 1/8" barb fitting to my ViAir 6 port manifold that is connected to a 2.5 gallon air tank. Turning the valve slightly should allow me to generate the low pressure required to engage the lockers. Running a few feet of vacuum line from the barb fitting to the fitting on the locker would allow me to engage one of the lockers, or both with a brass 1/8" T fitting. I can manually disengage both by shutting the valve.

Assuming that works, perhaps adding a check valve for additional safety is prudent.
Thoughts?
 

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9 years and back from the dead........

Dont overthink it. just replace the line, full length to the proper length
A better preventative step would be to move the pumps up off the skid
Unlikely that a pump will fail, let alone both of them. If 1 does fail you can always put a "T" fitting in and run both lockers off the one pump
 
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