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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The doors on my Jeep had never been removed. The paint had never been cracked on them so I figured I would give it a try and see how I liked driving without doors.
I needed to run mirrors but hated the idea of buying expensive mirror especially if I didn't like running with the doors off.

I found this write up and it worked pretty easy. Super simple and cheap !
If I decide I like running with the doors off I may make some sturdier arms for the mirrors to mount on as these seem flimsy.

Here is the link to where I got the instructions for mine:
Jeep Doorless Budget Mirror Mount

and some pics :

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Great build man, almost just like where my LJ is going. I'm about to order the same transfer case skid as you. Did you just do the lopro mount to avoid the body lift? I'm wondering if Ill need one, my body is already lifted 1"
Also, it sounds like spending the extra $20 for the pump mount wasn't necessarily worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Great build man, almost just like where my LJ is going. I'm about to order the same transfer case skid as you. Did you just do the lopro mount to avoid the body lift? I'm wondering if Ill need one, my body is already lifted 1"
Also, it sounds like spending the extra $20 for the pump mount wasn't necessarily worth it?
I did the LoPro mount to avoid the body lift.
If I had a body lift I could have went with the Ultra High Clearance skid and the LoPro.... but since I don't want to run a body lift I went with the Extra Clearance Skid and the LoPro mount.

The pump bracket didn't fit anywhere good for me and I had to modify it to work for mounting the pumps.... I should have just made some pump brackets from the start but since I had it here I made it work.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
After reading a bunch of info on fire extinguisher mounts I decided to go ahead and mount a larger 5lb one inside the Jeep.

I have the roll bar mount for a small fire extinguisher but I wanted a larger 5lb fire extinguisher and found a great place for it to be mounted.
It fits under the highlift jack so I don't loose any usable space with it mounted here.

The pics tell the story.... Here are some pics of how I mounted mine :

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
My latest project was installing a Viar compressor. I do not own air tools so I didn't need a large tank. I mostly trailer my Jeep so I needed something I could air up tires with but not something I am going to use every time out.
I also wanted something I could run air lockers off of if I ever have problems with my factory lockers and switch to and ARB or Yukon air locker.

Viair suggested I run the compressor sitting flat//level but said it can by run tilted..... the tilt may increase piston wear on the air compressor.

I ended up moving the windshield washer reservoir which opened up a nice spot on the fender to mount the compressor.

The best price for the compressor I could find was at Home Depot online.


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I got the switch here : http://vh4.nethosting.com/~goldcst1/cart/index.php
I have read mixed reviews on the switches but they fit the factory blanks so I am going to give them a try.

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The Viair sitting next too a MF50 compressor.


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Did you fab that cam for your tire swing or does that bumper come like that?
 

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Man that is a nice transformation. Great looking Jeep.
 

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997 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I had an issue with my rear trac bar hitting the gas tank skid after I did a tummy tuck.... the rear track bar bracket that came in the Currie lift kit just lifts the mounting point. I swapped it out for the bracket that tilts the mounting point forward. While at it I also added a Currie rear trac bar.
It should clear the gas tank skid now.... but now at full drop on the suspension the trac bar barely bumps the exhaust pipe....
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
while under the Jeep doing the rear trac bar and mount I realized I had play in the front driveshaft which turned out to be the axle u-joint.

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Having a run planned for this weekend I need parts NOW. I found a set of Alloy USA chromoly axle shafts in stock locally so they were swapped in. Figure they are supposed to be stronger than stock shafts so should work out okay.

Super easy swap following the 'Stu Olson' instructions found here :
D-30 Axle Shaft Removal - 1

While doing this I also decided to add a set of the Alloy USA axle tube seals. Black was out of stock so Red was it by default.


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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I had a set of the Poison Spider light bar mounts and I had a cheap China made light bar I had bought from a friend. I have absolutely no specs on the light bar as I came in a plain box with NO paperwork.

The Poison Spider Light bar mounts included bolts but they were the same size (length) as the stock ones so the threads wouldn't engage to catch at all.... so i had to go buy longer bolts. Very disappointing as the mounts were almost $200 to my door.

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So being the Poison Spider mounts are made for the Rigid lights bars the China made bar was too short to fit the mounts. The light bar was short by 1.5" so I needed a space of .75" on both sides. I found a small metal spacer that was the correct size bolt hole in the center and the correct length of .75" but the outside diameter was small. I found a rubber plug that I was able to drill then press the metal spacer into in the hopes it would look better.
Also had to drill out the holes for the light bar mounting bolts as mine were a tad larger than what the Rigid bar uses.

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I had a set of the Poison Spider light bar mounts and I had a cheap China made light bar I had bought from a friend. I have absolutely no specs on the light bar as I came in a plain box with NO paperwork. The Poison Spider Light bar mounts included bolts but they were the same size (length) as the stock ones so the threads wouldn't engage to catch at all.... so i had to go buy longer bolts. Very disappointing as the mounts were almost $200 to my door. - - - So being the Poison Spider mounts are made for the Rigid lights bars the China made bar was too short to fit the mounts. The light bar was short by 1.5" so I needed a space of .75" on both sides. I found a small metal spacer that was the correct size bolt hole in the center and the correct length of .75" but the outside diameter was small. I found a rubber plug that I was able to drill then press the metal spacer into in the hopes it would look better. Also had to drill out the holes for the light bar mounting bolts as mine were a tad larger than what the Rigid bar uses. - - - - -
Geez nothings easy once you start modifying huh lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
finally got the Viair compressor and the 50" light bar wired up today.
I used some switches from Gold Coast Distributing. They aren't the best switch but they are the only switch that I am aware of that plugs into the factory ports with NO cutting involved. They snap in just like the factory switches/blanks do.

I placed my order and within less than 30 minutes I had my tracking number for the package.

Website here :
GCD Offroad - An Ultra Care Car Products, Inc Company

he is also on EBAY here :
mlochridge | eBay
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
yesterday I find a leak underneath the front end and it ended up being the Pro Comp steering dampener.... It has less than 6000 miles on it.

After some research on here it looks like the Rancho RS5407 Steering dampener was going to be my next choice to try.

It was available for next day pick up online at my Local PepBoys.... so that is what I went with. I will see how it holds up.


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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Finally had some extra time to swap out the rear axles for the Alloy USA ones I had bought when I bought the fronts.

What should have been a couple hour job turned into a couple of days....
The press in lug studs included would only fit one axle... 4 Wheel Parts got me a set of bolts but the bolts were bagged wrong and were 1.5" instead of 2" .... so I got another set of the correct 2" bolts and I was good to go.

The rear axles came with one old style and one new style (from what I can figure). One axle was threaded for TJ and JK bolt pattern thread in studs and the other axle was designed for press in or thread in TJ studs. The one axle shaft didn't have an access hole to get to the axle retaining nuts. I tried drilling out hole for the pressed in stud but it was taking too long so I just pulled the e-brake shoes off and was able to access the axle retaining nuts.

I followed Stu Olson's links for info for the 'how-to' here :
Alloy USA D44 Shaft Installation - 1

See pics below :
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