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Very nice job.
I am about to do the same thing with Mopar crate axles, and I definitely will use your wiring/switch setup.
Again, very very nice work
 

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Fantastic writeup that will help anyone interested in upgrading to any aftermarket axle and not necessarily a Rubi takeoff.
 

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^^^Ditto, fantastic write-up, well done!


-Steven
 

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I have a question on the switch wiring.
You show a 7.1 amp draw, is that from 1 locker, or both?
And finally, did you ground the switch panel to the dash, or did you run the ground to the battery?
Thanks for your time,
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I have a question on the switch wiring.
You show a 7.1 amp draw, is that from 1 locker, or both?
And finally, did you ground the switch panel to the dash, or did you run the ground to the battery?
Thanks for your time,
John
7.1 A is for both lockers.
Ground for the backlight illumination connected to the dash mounts

Basically, there are two grounds in the switch panel: One (pin 7) used for illuminating the bottom part of the switch when headlights are on (powered from dashboard illumination) - this one is grounded to the body right near the switch panel (there is a nice spot where dash bolted to the body).
Another one (pin 8) used for illuminating top icon when lockers are engaged. This one wired to the locker's sensor, which then grounded to the body under the hood :



(see the 10mm white bolt under the right red arrow - that's the ground spot I used for locker sensors)



Black wire: ground for switches backlight (attached to the nearest ground spot on the body)
Yellow wires: ground for 'locker engaged' icon illumination (one goes to the front locker's sensor, another to the rear locker's sensor)
Blue wire: +12v input power, comes from the fuse box
White wires: power output (one goes to the front locker's actuator, another to the rear locker's actuator)
Green wire: +12v from dash backlight
 

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Very cool, thank you so much!
So, you are powering the locker indicator plunger from the + feed for the locker actuator wire, and when the locker actuates and the plunger closes the circuit, the locker light is grounded through the ground on the switch, correct ?
OTRATTW shipped my switches and bezel today. I hope you don't mind me coping your setup. It looks so great!
I'm gonna install my rear diff Sunday(picked up from a guy that swapped in a 60), and run out and pick up my new front crate axle Tuesday.
You have no idea how much you've helped me!!!
 

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Oh, I see in the wiring schematic that your grounded the locker sensor, when it engages, it grounds #8 pin on the switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Very cool, thank you so much!
So, you are powering the locker indicator plunger from the + feed for the locker actuator wire, and when the locker actuates and the plunger closes the circuit, the locker light is grounded through the ground on the switch, correct ?
OTRATTW shipped my switches and bezel today. I hope you don't mind me coping your setup. It looks so great!
I'm gonna install my rear diff Sunday(picked up from a guy that swapped in a 60), and run out and pick up my new front crate axle Tuesday.
You have no idea how much you've helped me!!!

You're very welcome!

Yes, that is correct - ground for the top indicator (pin 8) goes through the switch/sensor inside the diff

When +12v goes to the solenoid and locker gets engaged - switch inside the diff closes the circuit, pin 8 gets the ground and icon light illuminates.

Good luck with your install!
 

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Thank you again!!!
You've done an awesome job!!!
 

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Well, I got my front locker harness built today, and my switches wired.
Tested the front locker, hot wired with new harness on a 5" snow covered hill, and I'm impressed to say the least.
Gonna build the rear harness tomorrow, and then,,,,,,,,, cut the hole in the dash panel. This part bothers me the most LOL
 

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Got the switches in today, and front locker wired.
From all the reading I've done, I thought the lockers were slow to engage. My engagement light lights instantly. Is this normal, I used your wiring diagram so I'm sure it's right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Got the switches in today, and front locker wired.
From all the reading I've done, I thought the lockers were slow to engage. My engagement light lights instantly. Is this normal, I used your wiring diagram so I'm sure it's right.
Yes, this is normal. Lockers engage instantly, much like a relay.
 

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Thanks again.
You can hear the back clearly, the front, I could not hear, so under I went and had wifey hit the switch, then I heard it. Might be my 63 yo ears :)
Have a great New Years!!!
John
 

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Got the back done!
I can hear the back click, but the front not so much. So under I went and had wifey hit the switch, yup, I heard it, must be my 63 yo ears.
:iamhappy:
Thanks again Soggoth you made this wiring project simple for me!
Got to try them out today. 6" snowstorm, unplowed roads, 18 mile trip to town where I normally would use 4wd, made most of the trip in 2wd with back locker locked, and when I went up over the mountain, 4wd with rear locker engaged, and no slipping at all!!! I can't wait to get up to camp where I'll really be able to use them!

Have a safe New Years,
John
 

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Does anybody know what kind of connectors are used on the locker wiring harness? Or where they can be purchased?
 

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Does anybody know what kind of connectors are used on the locker wiring harness? Or where they can be purchased?
Here you go.

Mopar P5155359 (wiring harness and connector for e-locker actuator).
This 2 wire harness comes with the connector installed and enough length for either axle. It also is totally sleeved.
Jeep Wrangler Wiring Connector (Part No: P5155359)

Wells 898 Pigtail Assembly (Sensor/Indicator Pigtail)
This is only a connector kit. You will have to wire it and sleeve it yourself.
They are very pricey for a little piece of plastic. Rock Auto had them the cheapest.

RockAuto
 
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