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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm preparing to replace my rusted brake lines with new ones. Is there anything helpful I should know before I start? I have worked on brakes in the past, typically replacing pads/shoes. I have rebuilt a few wheel drum cylinders in the past, and I have rebuild kits for this effort as well. But, I have never replaced lines. Seems like a simple job, but never want to assume anything.

Thanks for any helpful advice!


 

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I've read a few threads recently about guys scratching their heads about how to do the front passenger line. I don't remember reading any solutions but the threads are out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've read a few threads recently about guys scratching their heads about how to do the front passenger line. I don't remember reading any solutions but the threads are out there.
Thanks! I read about the difficulty routing that line as well.

Besides the line routing, is there anything else I should be doing at this time? Should I consider draining the master cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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its not to bad go to autozone buy like a 20ft length of hand bendable lines, and you need the tool to create the flange and a small line cutter. try to keep your lines semi intact so you can use them as a guideline to to make the new brake line, keep the brake fluid resevior filled at all times and do each line seperatly.. and allow lines to gravity feed before attaching to calibers and cylinders and it will bypass the need to bench bleed your mc. once lines are attached bleed each line as you attach them.. its not to bad to do at all... i replaced mine all last year did all of them to the back axle, did the back axle like 3 months ago... just take your time and pb the shit out of the old line fittings mine we so rusted had to use the trusty visegrips to remove all line
 

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When I replaced my front right brake line I ran it down the top of the frame, behind the sway bar and back down the frame to the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
its not to bad go to autozone buy like a 20ft length of hand bendable lines, and you need the tool to create the flange and a small line cutter. try to keep your lines semi intact so you can use them as a guideline to to make the new brake line, keep the brake fluid resevior filled at all times and do each line seperatly.. and allow lines to gravity feed before attaching to calibers and cylinders and it will bypass the need to bench bleed your mc. once lines are attached bleed each line as you attach them.. its not to bad to do at all... i replaced mine all last year did all of them to the back axle, did the back axle like 3 months ago... just take your time and pb the shit out of the old line fittings mine we so rusted had to use the trusty visegrips to remove all line
Good, helpful information to know! I bought preformed lines, so I'm good to go. Just remove and replace. I have a brake line vacuum pump. Sounds like it will be relatively easy to do.
 

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I just replace a rear line on my 97 tj. It ran from the abs block to the rear end. A lot of bends. Dealer had it for $18. Can't beat that price. Clipped right in in 2 min.
 

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I replaced a brake line on Jeep #2, a 1999 Cherokee Sport and the clerk at Autozone gave me the wrong pieces, TWICE. I then went to Carquest and they were EXTREMELY knowledgeable and helpful. Jeep #1, my 2011 Wrangler is too new for new lines. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Front lines are done. Had to remove the front swaybar in order to get the front right installed. Man, what a long line that was! No broken clips so far.

Gravity has allowed the lines to (mostly) fill with fluid new fluid. Just connected the wheel side loosely and they eventually started dripping. I still need to bleed the brakes at the wheel, but should be easy to finish

Makes it a lot easier when you replace the flex lines at the same time :)

Thanks for all the helpful information and comments!
 
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