I need some help. 08 rubi on the driver side, the floor pan is rusted through, passenger is rusty but not rusted through. Pulled carpet and ran hose everywhere, no leaks. See attached pics. I need to know how this could get this bad and if anyone knows any aftermarket floor pan to fix. I get a monarch discount but that’s still $440 and it’s the whole front driver and passenger panel.
Rusted out floor pan
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10,725 Posts
You are in luck as far as timing is concerned. Major manufacturers maintain major parts for vehicles for 10 years at least. The full front floor pan is available from Mopar.
https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-pa...yMDA4JnQ9dW5saW1pdGVkLXgmZT0zLThsLXY2LWdhcw==
When I did the search I used 2008 Wrangler Unlimited X
Getting the part is the easy and reasonably expensed part. The difficult part is to find a qualified shop to do the work. Many body shops will not do this right. The rusted areas should be cut out so that ALL rust is removed and then the relevant needed sections of the replacement floor pan cut out of the new piece and edge welded into place. Then primed and painted, top AND BOTTOM. You want to avoid cutting out the sills and transmission tunnel as much as you can for that is what will provide the structure while the work is done.
You don't want them to overlap the new sections over the edge of the old sections for the overlaps will hold moisture and dirt and in a few years you will be right back where you are.
Watch a few episodes of Fantom Works and Graveyard Cars where they restore old classic cars and you will see the process. It will be a labor intensive job at a very skilled rate. You can help by doing a little prep work for them.
Remove all the seats but the drivers seat and the carpeting. That way they won't have to remove and store that stuff. When you take it to them to discuss the work, be sure to let them know you have those items and will put them back in. (They may prefer to have both front seats in when they get it so they can make sure they fit back in properly for you.)
The lack of carpeting also allows you to really see their work. Still, ask around and when talking to the shop, ask to see some of their work. Remember you are after metal fabricators, not bondo artists. If they are metal fabricators, you will see the metal working tools around, breaks to bend metal and English Wheels to form curves. Most won't be needed on your work, but for the skills you want those tools will be there. If they aren't then the skills you want are not there.
https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-pa...yMDA4JnQ9dW5saW1pdGVkLXgmZT0zLThsLXY2LWdhcw==
When I did the search I used 2008 Wrangler Unlimited X
Getting the part is the easy and reasonably expensed part. The difficult part is to find a qualified shop to do the work. Many body shops will not do this right. The rusted areas should be cut out so that ALL rust is removed and then the relevant needed sections of the replacement floor pan cut out of the new piece and edge welded into place. Then primed and painted, top AND BOTTOM. You want to avoid cutting out the sills and transmission tunnel as much as you can for that is what will provide the structure while the work is done.
You don't want them to overlap the new sections over the edge of the old sections for the overlaps will hold moisture and dirt and in a few years you will be right back where you are.
Watch a few episodes of Fantom Works and Graveyard Cars where they restore old classic cars and you will see the process. It will be a labor intensive job at a very skilled rate. You can help by doing a little prep work for them.
Remove all the seats but the drivers seat and the carpeting. That way they won't have to remove and store that stuff. When you take it to them to discuss the work, be sure to let them know you have those items and will put them back in. (They may prefer to have both front seats in when they get it so they can make sure they fit back in properly for you.)
The lack of carpeting also allows you to really see their work. Still, ask around and when talking to the shop, ask to see some of their work. Remember you are after metal fabricators, not bondo artists. If they are metal fabricators, you will see the metal working tools around, breaks to bend metal and English Wheels to form curves. Most won't be needed on your work, but for the skills you want those tools will be there. If they aren't then the skills you want are not there.
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2,090 Posts
Damn!! and that is why i removed my drivers side carpet!!
Yeah it f-ing sucks but its only going to cost a few hundred bucks to fix and it will be better than OEM. Its just one of those things you wouldn't expect on a 10 year old vehicle.
I could find a leak at all. Ran hose on it forever and even sprayed it at vulnerable spots. No water coming in.
I could find a leak at all. Ran hose on it forever and even sprayed it at vulnerable spots. No water coming in.
Joined
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10,725 Posts
The water could have come from anywhere. It could have been just leaving the windows down and a rain shower came up. I came out one day and the drivers foot well on my Sahara had over an inch of water in it. I had left the window down about an inch and it rained. I removed the rubber formed mat, sopped up most of the water with towels, then removed the carpet hold downs and raised the carpet, pulled the plug so the rest of the water could drain out. I then put so blocks in to keep the carpet up until everything dried out thoroughly. (Leaving the windows down in the summer helped, but kept an eye on the weather). Once everything was dry, I replaced everything except the drain plug.
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661 Posts
Wow!
I wandered into the wrong forum by accident & thought this was a CJ, YJ or even TJ forum post...
I can't believe this is a JK!?
The more things change, the more they stay the same....
Repair looks great btw!
I wandered into the wrong forum by accident & thought this was a CJ, YJ or even TJ forum post...
I can't believe this is a JK!?
The more things change, the more they stay the same....
Repair looks great btw!
Joined
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1 Posts
Could you tell us the price you got? Mine looks the same
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