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Discussion Starter #1
my 93 wrangler shakes horribly between 20 and 40 mph. I feel it most in the steering wheel but also in the floor, seat, gas pedal.

upon inspection of my driveshaft I found that my rear yolk was bad along with the u joint, replaced both thinking this was my vibration as it goes away when clutch is engaged. didn't help at all.

I jacked up the front of the jeep and checked for anything loose but found nothing except my steering box wiggles up and down slightly while turning(already addressed this issue with a steal plate on outside of frame with holes drilled in it, ect)

I did find that all four wheels when jacked up have a small amount of play in and out of the axels. but no corner to corner or up and down ball joints are fine.

is this normal and if not could this cause a vibration that starts at 20 but mysteriously goes away at 40+

also if this is the problem what would it be I thought that if it was wheel bearings it would cause up and down play or be wobbly and they are not. they are very solid every way except in and out of the axle( 1/8 inch of play on the worst tire (drivers rear)

any ideas
 

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Post a pic if your rear drive shaft so we can see the angle of it. Other than having your tires balanced I think you have checked it all out.
 

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Yeah need a little history is this all new, as a result of a lift or other mods????

Attached are some pictures of pinion angles for stock shaft and CV with an SYE installed. The problem with your yoke and u-joint are probably the result of a bad pinion angle after a lift. The speeds you mention are where you will feel it the most.

So a magnetic angle finder and get the angles in degrees between the pinion and the shaft and a couple of pics of the driveline from underneath will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will post pic as soon as I can but the angle doesn't look too extreme. I bought the jeep a few months back after I broke the frame on my old one. the leaf springs were junk so I added coils in between the axles and frame lifting it a few inches. it did it before this but not nearly as bad. oh also the old yolk had been welded on each side because the little stubs were broke off. it rattles so bad that the whole ashtray broke off the dash and fell. its kind of dark but I will try to get a pic tonight thank you
 

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I had something similar in my 88.i replaced all the ball joints, u joints, hell I would have smoked a joint to get my issue fixed. Turned out my steering linkage was shot. Only effected my driving below 40. Above that it smoothed out.
I was shown how to check it, by twisting the steering linkage fore to aft. If it turns easily, it time to replaced. Easy meaning you don't need a death grip to get it to turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
steering linkage you mean the one from steering wheel to steering box, steering box to tie rod or the tie rod itself?

I have the pics of the drive shaft on second look it does seem a little extreme u tell me. if this is the issue how to fix it?

those are 31s and a lighter just for reference not sure what stock looks like but figure 6-8 inches from top of tire to fender flare
 

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Ya hats to extreme. You need to fix that. 2 options 1 SYE, 2 TC drop with axle degree shims to pint the pinion at the TC.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what is sye? and what are axle degree shims... been thinking maybe custom spring mounts on the back longer maybe but not sure if that would work
 

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what is sye? and what are axle degree shims... been thinking maybe custom spring mounts on the back longer maybe but not sure if that would work
Slip Yoke Eliminator.

image-1419205023.jpg

Shortens the transfer case output and allows you to run a longer driveshaft with better angles. This one issue by Rubicon Express.
 

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Whatever you are doing here. YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG!!!! What is with the coil springs? More pics of tcase driveshaft connection. That looks goofy too. Angle is pretty steep but shouldn't vibrate that much. You have a tcase drop already???
 

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Whatever you are doing here. YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG!!!! What is with the coil springs? More pics of tcase driveshaft connection. That looks goofy too. Angle is pretty steep but shouldn't vibrate that much. You have a tcase drop already???
The Tcase slip yoke he has is off TJs that's why it looks different than a YJ. X2 on the coils, I don't understand this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
bout a half inch drop at the back (last owner) tomorrow im gonna get some longer bolts and make some spacers out of square tubing. gonna try for 2 inch drop but motor mounts might not let it tilt that far. as for the coils my leaf springs are shot, I mean like arching in reverse so due to lack of money I welded some old coil springs to the frame and they rest perfectly around the top of the u bolts. had to stretch the springs with a jack to fit in the back that's how I got all the lift. the front I cut to fit that's why it is a little higher in the back then the front. I cant believe that no one on here has ever done this must be a mi thing or something seen it a bunch of times. its not ideal because the extra stiffness makes it ride like a cj but it is the cheapest easiest possible lift, I never said it was the best way, just that its what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah I did a little inspecting today and my driveshaft is not the problem it doesn't bind up or anything the real issue is that the output shaft on the back of the tc is bent slightly. with the back end jacked up I put it in 3rd gear and let it idle the whole shaft is bouncing up and down I have another tranny and tc but its pretty worn out so I guess ill have to deal with this until I have enough money to fix it. I figure if im gonna go through the trouble to tear it all apart I might as well buy a new chain, bearing, seal,ect. good time to upgrade to a sye... kinda depressing actually ( last owner never informed me of this problem... d**k)
 

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I'm willing to bet that upon your travels your rear driveshaft has been binding up do to the u joint failure and the bent shaft. That out put shaft doesn't just bend for no reason. IMHO you need to fix the driveline angle before you replace any other parts so you won't h e to do it again.
 
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