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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone made their own roof rack and screwed it directly onto your hard top? I have a '99 TJ and I was thinking about do it on mine.
 

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I did that 20+ years ago but I could never get the holes sealed well enough to prevent leaking during rainstorms.
 

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2006 TJ Rubicon, 4.0, automatic
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You could, but likely run into the same problem Jerry mentioned above. Add to that the hard tip isn’t really going to support a lot of weight. If you can, you could always make it and have it attach to the bumper or frame. Might be cheaper than buying one, but will take some time to fab up.
 

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I did. I plan to add a third support in the middle. On the inside I made a plate to spread out the load instead of washers. Without rubber it hasn't leaked since spring when I did this, but when I repaint the top I'm adding rubber washers.

So far I've hauled and wheeled with a high lift and my 56lb kitchen case attached to the rack. If I was ever to go with a RTT I'd probably swich to a full length box steel rail inside and out. I've stood on the top before so I know it will at least hold 210lbs.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did. I plan to add a third support in the middle. On the inside I made a plate to spread out the load instead of washers. Without rubber it hasn't leaked since spring when I did this, but when I repaint the top I'm adding rubber washers.

So far I've hauled and wheeled with a high lift and my 56lb kitchen case attached to the rack. If I was ever to go with a RTT I'd probably swich to a full length box steel rail inside and out. I've stood on the top before so I know it will at least hold 210lbs.

View attachment 4532215 View attachment 4532216
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your response. Good information. I'm concerned that too much bouncing around would cause fatigue failure in the top at the mounting points. I think mounting as close to the edge as practicable on the top is preferable as I would expect less flexing. As you said, spreading the load with a plate would be a good idea, I think. Also, water proofing shouldn't be a problem if you use rubber or silicon grommets.
Where did you get your rack?
 

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I built it. I got the bars from Tnutz, and the 2x1/4 aluminum locally. I made a vid that I've not edited together yet. I'll post it when I do. Where I bolted thrugh is a seam so it's stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I built it. I got the bars from Tnutz, and the 2x1/4 aluminum locally. I made a vid that I've not edited together yet. I'll post it when I do. Where I bolted thrugh is a seam so it's stronger.
I built it. I got the bars from Tnutz, and the 2x1/4 aluminum locally. I made a vid that I've not edited together yet. I'll post it when I do. Where I bolted thrugh is a seam so it's stronger.
Great information. So you made it entirely from scratch? All aluminum? So the cross members are aluminum too? Seems like aluminum might be a little weak for this. But I like the idea of using aluminum becase, as we all know, a jeep is already top heavy as it is.
 

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Great information. So you made it entirely from scratch? All aluminum? So the cross members are aluminum too? Seems like aluminum might be a little weak for this. But I like the idea of using aluminum becase, as we all know, a jeep is already top heavy as it is.
All scratch built and aside from stainless steel fasteners yes it's entirely aluminum. Tnutz sells the bars cut to length and they offer threading the holes. Its worth the money to have them do that.

I figured it would be strong enough for what I needed. I'm probably going to have another 40-50lbs in another pelican for my personal stuff. If I was going to rooftop tent or something else I might still go with the aluminum because it is fairly durable, I don't remember the numbers, but I'd do it with the different mounting as described.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All scratch built and aside from stainless steel fasteners yes it's entirely aluminum. Tnutz sells the bars cut to length and they offer threading the holes. Its worth the money to have them do that.

I figured it would be strong enough for what I needed. I'm probably going to have another 40-50lbs in another pelican for my personal stuff. If I was going to rooftop tent or something else I might still go with the aluminum because it is fairly durable, I don't remember the numbers, but I'd do it with the different mounting as described.
You've convinced me. I'm going to try it. It seems simple enough, even for me. Thanks.
 

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Can't wait to see it. The factory hard top has a hollow space on the outer edge. If you look close at the one picture you can see that my mounting is just on the inside of that rain gutter, that's about the best way to sight that seam on the early tj hard top, I don't know about the newer ones that dont have the vent. Measure twice, drill and cuss once.
 

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2002 Jeep TJ 4.0 Automatic with about a four inch lift, 35x12.50x15 Hercules tires
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All scratch built and aside from stainless steel fasteners yes it's entirely aluminum. Tnutz sells the bars cut to length and they offer threading the holes. Its worth the money to have them do that.

I figured it would be strong enough for what I needed. I'm probably going to have another 40-50lbs in another pelican for my personal stuff. If I was going to rooftop tent or something else I might still go with the aluminum because it is fairly durable, I don't remember the numbers, but I'd do it with the different mounting as described.
From what I see of the fasteners, they aren’t stainless, they are just cadmium plates. Stainless usually has just two marks on the head of the bolt. Cadmium is somewhat corrosion resistant but not like stainless.
 

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From what I see of the fasteners, they aren’t stainless, they are just cadmium plates. Stainless usually has just two marks on the head of the bolt. Cadmium is somewhat corrosion resistant but not like stainless.
The bolts holding the rack its self together are stainless, the others and the angle brackets haven't been painted yet.tje back I also needed to change out with spacers that were 1/4 longer. I had 3/4 spacers but the rear needed inch. I used nuts to space them temporarily.
 
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