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Step by step play on how and if y’all use sea foam ?

Took my Jeep in to get a pro-alignment after installing my cross over steering. Only off by 0.65 of a degree ! Haha . Anyways. They recommended I do a fuel system cleaning. It’s a 98 Sahara with 170k on her. Talk to some friends of mine here one says he sea foams his intake, fuel, and oil about 15 min before each oil change. That being said he also went on to say when he replaced his headers there was almost no carbon residue ...

Anyways never done this. So was wonder if someone could give me a play by play on how you use it ?


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I’ve never used it before an oil change, but I put it in my YJ prior to winter storage this year ( full tank, drive for 15 minutes before parking) and my Jeep starts better than it did last yet. Was it the Seafoam? The previous winter I used Stabil and saw no changes in how the Jeep ran.


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Seafoam makes great products. I've used it on my motorcycle with great success, and their Deep Creep penetrating fluid is the best I've used (albeit expensive). Here is a thorough video where he shows you how to use Seafoam and what affect it had on his truck:

That said, if your Jeep is running fine I wouldn't bother.
 

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Seafoam makes great products. I've used it on my motorcycle with great success, and their Deep Creep penetrating fluid is the best I've used (albeit expensive). Here is a thorough video where he shows you how to use Seafoam and what affect it had on his truck:

That said, if your Jeep is running fine I wouldn't bother.
I watched this video before asking haha. But firestone recommended I do as I have to crank my Jeep a little long before starting. That being said, I also have allot of moisture even after my Jeep is up to temp. My little lifter tic has gotta a little louder on a cold start up since I got my Jeep 15k ago. I’m not at 170k. The previous single owner
Did a great job upkeeping things when it came time to replacing them but when it came preventive maintaining everything.. not so much...

My diff fluid looked and smelled like burnt 0w-20 and my transmission had $5 dollars stack of quarters made out of metal shavings on the drain/ mag plug. Tcase ? Haha looked like choccy milk. .

That being said as good of condition my Jeep is in I think the previous owner was a gas and go type of guy who ran the Jeep on allot of luck


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Todays fuel has enough additives to keep your system clean. The only reason I would use seafoam or stabil is if storing for a long period of time.

Does the long crank time happen only after the Jeep has sat for a while? Or if the Jeep has just been running shortly before? If it happens when the jeeps been sitting, its usually a leak at the check valve within the fuel pump. If it happens only right after running, then it is usually a leak at the fuel pressure regulator. In other words....check your fuel pump.

Also, crossover steering is only going to introduce problems. The factory haltenburger (stock Y setup the TJ has) was developed to eliminate tie rod roll. It is also very prone to death wobble. A better (and suggested) upgraded would be the Currie currectlync which is a heavy duty system that does not change the geometry of the stock steering.
 

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I can understand a fuel system cleaner, although today's fuels are pretty much packed with detergents and the ethanol is nasty itself . That being said, they meant WE want to do a oil system cleaning for $129.95. One of them BG pro flush systems like a dialysis machine. Yeppers, lets knock everything lose in the crank case and run it thru the bearings,rings etc, etc.Lets say you bought your jeep used with little to no knowledge of its history. I have torn down engines that I literally could not see the valve stems,seals, barely the rockers and springs for the mass amount of sludge under the valve cover alone. Could be your rigs engine, do you really know? No way in you know what would I even attempt ,or hope that adding a bottle of whatever is going to make the engine "better" Your asking for problems, that's all. You wanna see clouds of crap come out the tailpipe? dump water down the TB or carb at 2500 rpm. Remember how great the Holly water injection was?? Just my $.02 worth.
 

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Just my anecdotal experience with it:

I bought a used S-10 with the 4.3. It was a delivery truck with 120k of city driving and high idle time. It ran fine but I decided when doing my standard new used vehicle complete fluid change I'd run some Seafoam engine cleaner through it. This is the stuff you squirt into the intake with the engine running to clean out the carbon. I ended up with a bent intake valve. My guess is a big enough chunk of something broke off and wedged in the valve. I rebuilt the one head and drove it for a few years and then sold it to a farmer. If I could do it over again I wouldn't.
 

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I watched this video before asking haha. But firestone recommended I do as I have to crank my Jeep a little long before starting. That being said, I also have allot of moisture even after my Jeep is up to temp. My little lifter tic has gotta a little louder on a cold start up since I got my Jeep 15k ago. I’m not at 170k. The previous single owner
Did a great job upkeeping things when it came time to replacing them but when it came preventive maintaining everything.. not so much...

My diff fluid looked and smelled like burnt 0w-20 and my transmission had $5 dollars stack of quarters made out of metal shavings on the drain/ mag plug. Tcase ? Haha looked like choccy milk. .

That being said as good of condition my Jeep is in I think the previous owner was a gas and go type of guy who ran the Jeep on allot of luck


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I was in the same position as you when I got my Jeep. I tried different engine oil until I found one my Jeep "liked." The lifter tick seemed worse with Mobil 1, better with Valvoline or something, and best with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or whatever their top of the line synthetic is. I got tired of paying so much for it so now I use Pennzoil "dino oil" (both 5w-30) and my lifter tick is still better than before. So I've been using Pennzoil ever since. I'm skeptical that it's actually the oil, though. It could simply be that regular oil changes cleaned things up gradually, since there are so many detergents and additives in engine oil now and it was probably neglected before I got it. But it works so I keep doing it lol
 

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Ever since I bought my TJ from the dealer (who did an oil change, listed in the copies of the worksheets I got), so I have done an annual oil change since (no more than 3,000 miles). I have heard about putting SeaFoam in the oil, but multi-grade oils used today are cleaner than the old single weight oils. I don't think I would put it in the oil, and have not considered running it through the throttle body either.

I have periodically put a full 8 oz can in the fuel when I fill up. I also use a couple of ounces in the lawnmower at the start of the mowing season on the first fill and when storing the mower at the end of the season.
 

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I was in the same position as you when I got my Jeep. I tried different engine oil until I found one my Jeep "liked." The lifter tick seemed worse with Mobil 1, better with Valvoline or something, and best with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or whatever their top of the line synthetic is. I got tired of paying so much for it so now I use Pennzoil "dino oil" (both 5w-30) and my lifter tick is still better than before. So I've been using Pennzoil ever since. I'm skeptical that it's actually the oil, though. It could simply be that regular oil changes cleaned things up gradually, since there are so many detergents and additives in engine oil now and it was probably neglected before I got it. But it works so I keep doing it lol
x2
Choice of oils can sometimes be controversial and you could get a million different recommendations if you asked what is best. I do 10-w30, but Pennzoil or Valvoline dino-oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months. I am at 210k miles and haven't had to switch to 5-w30 yet. Maybe I will have to some day, but the engine is happy with 10 weight for now. Oil is cleaner than when I first bought mine two years ago, but still cleaning more crud out with every change. A mechanic friend of mine advised to stick with conventional. Lifters are very quiet. Every change, the oil coming out looks a little more brown and less black, so I believe it is doing its job well. Sometimes I get lucky, I found 5 quart jugs of Pennzoil for $10 last fall.
 

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Pretty much all oil is Synthetic these days.
Read up on the Castrol VS Mobil lawsuit. Because of that 99.9% of the oils out there are NOT synthetic even when sold as "fully synthetic". They are highly refined/addative packed dino that have refined to perform as well as real synthetic oil like Mobil 1 originally was.


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Check out bobistheoilguy.com. You’ll learn that almost all oil is synthetic these days. Lots of people on there use Walmart brand oil due to its high quality, synthetic makeup.


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Check out PQI for tests and the like on specific oils sold these days. Some are really good and some not so much. Ive read much on the BTIOG site over the years. had to laugh at the explanation of the M1/Castrol debacle from one of the resident know it all's who just happens to be an attorney. Bottom line is GII,GIII and up are different in their respective ways. All good stuff these days for the most part. Use what make you feel all happy and fuzzy inside. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you everyone ! I just did a sea foam treatment to my fuel, intake, and add 4OZ to my oil. I have 380 miles on this oil change and I I will be doing another oil change at 500 miles. To ensure all the sea foam is cycled through tummy Sys . I have a little over 1/4 tank left . So that should put me around 410 miles on the oil change and I’ll go from there. Thank you everyone !


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