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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this probably has been covered many times but I am getting conflicting feedback so.... I have the cad operated cable system and it works great but as far as shifting the transfer case in, when I go to 4HI I come to a stop most of the time and shift it in, sometimes I may barley moving and it always shifts great but If I try going to 4LO I stop and try shifting into LO but it just grinds like it's trying to go in but it's not making it, I have tried in park, neutral and in gear with the same results. I have been told my linkage needs adjusted also but I have not tried that yet so back to the question, how does everyone else shift theirs and do you have the same issue with Lo? Thanks
 

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If it's making noises there is something wrong. It may very well be the linkage but it doesn't sound like that to me. Standard shift or automatic?

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4LO will grind if you mis-shift it with an automatic. It may very well be due to the shift linkage being out of adjustment and/or interference from a body lift or transfer case drop keeping the shifter from going all the way to the rear. Make sure you put the auto trans in neutral while just barely rolling and pull smartly to 4LO. It may grind a tooth or two before dropping in. Then back into drive. If it doesn't go in to LO, start with checking for the shifter hitting the body or boot, then check the adjuster block on the linkage. You may need to slide it rearward a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is an automatic, no lift and when I was under it looking at it nothing in the way that it would hit. I wanted lower gearing sometimes on steep downward trails and was told I could put it in 4 LO and not engage the cad and would have a lo range 2 wheel drive. I also wasn't sure if I should be in neutral or park as I have been told both. The shift arm will go to the right but to me it acts like you have to pull the shift lever to far back trying to engage. Can the linkage be adjusted with the engine off?
 

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Its best to be in neutral so you can be rolling ever so slightly to help the gears mesh.

If you are on a steep descent, you might as well be in 4WD, also, for double the holding traction. Unless its paved, of course.

To get in 4LO, the lever gets pull quite far to the rear. The lever can hit the tub/plate or the bunched up rubber boot at that rearward limit. Look there when someone pulls on it.

The adjuster block is best/safest adjusted while the engine is off. It normally sits at the midpoint of its travel range(thinner end of linkage).Is that where yours is locked down? Maybe adjust it a fraction to the rear(lever forward) and try that.
 

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Another thing I just thought of...your motor/trans mounts. If they are in bad shape, it allows the engine and trans to shift around and can cause the shifter to bind or compromise its travel
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another thing I just thought of...your motor/trans mounts. If they are in bad shape, it allows the engine and trans to shift around and can cause the shifter to bind or compromise its travel
Everything is in great shape and best that I can tell the jeep has never been abused. It shifts to HI like butter and when I shift it right and pull back for LO all seems good just feels like I run out of shifting room and you can hear the gears trying to mesh. I haven't tried it in a while but will be checking it this weekend. Is it ok to shift to 4LO and not engage the cad so you have a 2 wheel low range?
 

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To shift an auto into 4L, come to a complete stop, hold brake, shift into N and then quickly into park.. do not allow the trans time to engage R on the way... then the driveline will be unloaded and you can shift into 4L... now you can shift yhe trans into gear and release the brake
 

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Its best to be in neutral so you can be rolling ever so slightly to help the gears mesh.

If you are on a steep descent, you might as well be in 4WD, also, for double the holding traction. Unless its paved, of course.

To get in 4LO, the lever gets pull quite far to the rear. The lever can hit the tub/plate or the bunched up rubber boot at that rearward limit. Look there when someone pulls on it.

The adjuster block is best/safest adjusted while the engine is off. It normally sits at the midpoint of its travel range(thinner end of linkage).Is that where yours is locked down? Maybe adjust it a fraction to the rear(lever forward) and try that.
Where's the rust?
 
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