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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Jeepers. I am the midst of deciding what to do with the next phase of my Jeep and welcome opinions and thoughts of any/all kind.

Hello Jeepers. I am the midst of deciding what to do with the next phase of my Jeep and welcome opinions and thoughts of any/all kind.

This is what I have and what I’ve done since stock that matters:

  • 2016 JKUR with the 3.6 auto
  • 4.88 Yukon gears and HD diff covers
  • Stock rubi wheels and Milestar Pat 37s with Spydertrax spacers
  • It has a 3.5" AEV DS lift and Synergy lower CAs up front.
  • HD Teraflex ball joints up front
  • Adams super HD front drive shaft
  • Trimmed rubi rock rails
  • Warn Zeon 10s Plat winch up front (I say for purpose of weight)
  • iKamper skycamp RTT that stays on top year around (I say for purpose of weight)

I am planning to do full front and back control arms/track bars and new tie rod. In the future I will either do 38" x 13.50 MS Pats and new wheels and ditch the spacers or keep the stockers and do the same 37s x 12.50 or maybe some Toyo Open Country. I like the Milestar myself and the 38s even weigh the same as 37s of basically all other MT tire.

Here's my dilemma..........I need a little more clearance in the back already. Rear tires rub very slightly in the front of the rear fender well at full stuff. I want to do the rest of what I am planning one time and one time only if possible. I do not like the flat fender option - not because of how they look and I understand the benefit – I like the stock fenders and don’t dig the cost and particularly because of the inner fenders liners. If I go that route I still have to get more room out back and def if I go 38s as well. I am contemplating just getting the 4.5" AEV springs for the clearance plus I might be ok keeping the drop down brackets if I have the extra inch. I don't really like them either but they do assist in good on road manners. Whether I do 38s or stay 37s if one thing that I will decide. But I guess the basic main question(s)

Do I go 4.5” springs or flats and liners etc.
Stay 37s on stockers or
38s and wheels or trim the existing flares and do liners or……..

Thanks!
 

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When you get rear control arms you can set the lowers 1/2” longer than stock which may alleviate the rubbing. Brake upgrade would be a high priority for me. Trussing the axles should also be considered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I realize the brakes could be upgraded and may be part of the plan as well. I want to see what wheels will be on my Jeep - stay with stockers or not. I also realize that rear arms will help center the axle. Any comments on the 4.5" springs etc? Thx.
 

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2015 Rubicon Hard Rock, Auto , 4.88 Yukon's, Chromoly Axles, 3.5" Lift, 6" Stretch, Coilovers
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Since you have a roof rack and I assume will be loading it with items you can't fit inside I would not lift any higher. Your roll center will be high and puts you in danger of rollover in certain situations. As mentioned I would address your issue in other ways. Also along with brakes and axle trusses I will highly suggest Chromoly axles.
 

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Since you asked for opinions :)
  • I prefer lower and don't mind cutting my Jeep to get there. But you do have a lot of weight, so you might have to use the taller springs to get the net lift you're looking for. I have friends running an RTT and full overland kitchens using 6" coils in the rear to get a net 3" (ish) of lift.
  • I would not run 38s long term on factory axles.
  • I like flat fenders
 

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I agree with @Blue Baby Sound ....do flat fenders....you will need to trim the wheel well seams and re weld preferably when you get the control arms...I too looked at and thought about 38's....the width is going to be a concern....you either bump stop more and limit articulation or you cut more....there is a thread on here somewhere about clearance issues and 38's...to me it's not worth the hassle on stock axles...you will be teetering on the line of too wide for stock axles and needing new wider axles....you can do what you're asking but it's going to get a lot more involved....if you want to do the 4.5" springs you should definitely get a new front axle with caster correction...and you'll need to flip your steering if you haven't done that yet....I feel with 4.5" springs you'll still need the flat fenders if you insist on the 38's....
 
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The first thing I would do is go out and measure your current lift and see if you are in fact lifted 3.5 inches. You have a lot of weight on that rig and you may find you are below the advertised lift height. If that is in fact true a 4.5 inch lift is called for. I am currently running 2.5 inches of lift running 37's and flat fenders but with the weight I have added over the years actual lift height is only 2.25 inches empty. I will be moving to 3.5 inches shortly.
 
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This is gonna be an unpopular opinion on this forum. I wouldn't add any lift to the suspension. I'd add a 1 to 1.5 inch body lift. This will not affect the center of gravity as much, since only the body is lifted (vs. the body, frame, engine and drivetrain). This would allow you to save some money which could be spent doing other upgrades needed with the larger tires.
 

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I've got a very similar set up. Same lift but on a two door and running 35s but my rig has the brake upgrades you need. I very much like stock fenders and wont be getting rid of them. I'm thinking about 1" Teraflex spacers with 4.5" lift AEV bump stops and a new rear drive shaft to move up to 37s. Anyway, maybe spacers are an option to keep the price down? Also, AEV offers a 4.5" high capacity spring too. Don't forget the bump stops
 

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Hello Jeepers. I am the midst of deciding what to do with the next phase of my Jeep and welcome opinions and thoughts of any/all kind.

Hello Jeepers. I am the midst of deciding what to do with the next phase of my Jeep and welcome opinions and thoughts of any/all kind.

This is what I have and what I’ve done since stock that matters:

  • 2016 JKUR with the 3.6 auto
  • 4.88 Yukon gears and HD diff covers
  • Stock rubi wheels and Milestar Pat 37s with Spydertrax spacers
  • It has a 3.5" AEV DS lift and Synergy lower CAs up front.
  • HD Teraflex ball joints up front
  • Adams super HD front drive shaft
  • Trimmed rubi rock rails
  • Warn Zeon 10s Plat winch up front (I say for purpose of weight)
  • iKamper skycamp RTT that stays on top year around (I say for purpose of weight)

I am planning to do full front and back control arms/track bars and new tie rod. In the future I will either do 38" x 13.50 MS Pats and new wheels and ditch the spacers or keep the stockers and do the same 37s x 12.50 or maybe some Toyo Open Country. I like the Milestar myself and the 38s even weigh the same as 37s of basically all other MT tire.

Here's my dilemma..........I need a little more clearance in the back already. Rear tires rub very slightly in the front of the rear fender well at full stuff. I want to do the rest of what I am planning one time and one time only if possible. I do not like the flat fender option - not because of how they look and I understand the benefit – I like the stock fenders and don’t dig the cost and particularly because of the inner fenders liners. If I go that route I still have to get more room out back and def if I go 38s as well. I am contemplating just getting the 4.5" AEV springs for the clearance plus I might be ok keeping the drop down brackets if I have the extra inch. I don't really like them either but they do assist in good on road manners. Whether I do 38s or stay 37s if one thing that I will decide. But I guess the basic main question(s)

Do I go 4.5” springs or flats and liners etc.
Stay 37s on stockers or
38s and wheels or trim the existing flares and do liners or……..

Thanks!
The flat fenders are the cheapest option, and will work well for you. I have a set of these and I'm very happy with them. If you decide you don't like the hole that is exposed when you remove the front fenders, you can ether cut the fender liners, or purchase a set of the liners I posted as well. I didn't feel the need to install liners in the rear

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to all for the comments. I will take a look at how much lift I currently have after having the kit on for 2 years and adding stuff - good idea. I am not dead set on the 38s so I am more concerned with going AEV 4.5" springs or flat fenders. I am going to do the control arms top/bottom and front/back and tie rod/new stabilizer etc no matter what to dial things in. I have no complex to go with a higher lift or larger than 37s but I do want/need a little more room in the rear and really like the factory flares. Its my DD but 95% of the time it's to and from work for about 7 miles one way at 45mph. Maybe staying with the 37s and go with the aftermarket hard rock wheels from Quadratec to get better backspacing and push the tire out just a fraction will help too. I hate to lose any travel but I could do a 4" bump stop in the rear to stop a bit of the rub too. I realize there are hundreds of approaches to all of this and have had Jeeps all my life.
 

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If you just need more fender clearance, then you should consider a 1.25" body lift. That along with your existing 3.5" suspension lift, will give you an effective 4.75" lift without messing with the suspension geometry any further. Once you get up past 3.5 inches it starts getting expensive with drive shaft changes and other stuff.

For around $100 you get a body lift (with rear bumper relocation brackets), and they are pretty easy to install. Hardly noticeable too. I have it (along with a 3" suspension lift) and there is lots of room. The only thing I didn't like was the gap it left at the inner fenders which I fixed at a later date with some rubber extension.

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Land vehicle Automotive side marker light


Tire Automotive tire Tread Bumper Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you just need more fender clearance, then you should consider a 1.25" body lift. That along with your existing 3.5" suspension lift, will give you an effective 4.75" lift without messing with the suspension geometry any further. Once you get up past 3.5 inches it starts getting expensive with drive shaft changes and other stuff.

For around $100 you get a body lift (with rear bumper relocation brackets), and they are pretty easy to install. Hardly noticeable too. I have it (along with a 3" suspension lift) and there is lots of room. The only thing I didn't like was the gap it left at the inner fenders which I fixed at a later date with some rubber extension.
Hi Bob. I really appreciate it and understand the idea. I had a body lift on my 95' after lifting it 4" and it worked but I swore I would never do a body lift again and I've had 5 Wranglers since then and never have. Not that there is anything wrong with it, its just not for me personally. The gap between the body and frame, and at that time, the gap in the transfer case plate ended up driving me nuts. I realize its kind of different now but the scars remain :)

Really appreciate the feedback and Happy Thanksgiving :)
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Plant
 

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Attached is a pic of my jeep for reference. 4 1/2" AEV high capacity springs with Nemesis flat fenders running 37" pat's. I'm also on Currie 44/60 combo with 5.13 gears.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Randy
Instagram: overland_rubi
Wheel Tire Plant Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Attached is a pic of my jeep for reference. 4 1/2" AEV high capacity springs with Nemesis flat fenders running 37" pat's. I'm also on Currie 44/60 combo with 5.13 gears.
Hey Randy. Did you start with a 3.5" or straight to 4.5"? And is it just the springs or the AEV kit and I can't tell if you have the drop brackets or not? Any additional info as far as build and parts and your feelings about the 4.5" springs you wish to share would be greatly appreciated. If it would not create more problems than its worth, I would prefer to go with the 4.5" springs rather than fenders and liners etc. I'm personally not so much concerned with COG as I am everything else. Jeep looks great btw. Much appreciated.
 

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Hey Randy. Did you start with a 3.5" or straight to 4.5"? And is it just the springs or the AEV kit and I can't tell if you have the drop brackets or not? Any additional info as far as build and parts and your feelings about the 4.5" springs you wish to share would be greatly appreciated. If it would not create more problems than its worth, I would prefer to go with the 4.5" springs rather than fenders and liners etc. I'm personally not so much concerned with COG as I am everything else. Jeep looks great btw. Much appreciated.
I actually started with a JKS 2 1/2" lift. As the jeep got heavier, I added their ACOS spacers which took care of the sag, but the springs were to soft in the rear. That's when I said I had enough and jumped to the 4 1/2" high capacity springs and they handle the additional weight without any issue. I run adjustable JKS arms, full Steersmart setup except for the XD attenuator, not a fan. I much prefer the adjustability of the teraflex 2.2 stabilizer over the attenuator. My Currie axles are setup for a lifted JK, so no need for drop brackets.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I actually started with a JKS 2 1/2" lift. As the jeep got heavier, I added their ACOS spacers which took care of the sag, but the springs were to soft in the rear. That's when I said I had enough and jumped to the 4 1/2" high capacity springs and they handle the additional weight without any issue. I run adjustable JKS arms, full Steersmart setup except for the XD attenuator, not a fan. I much prefer the adjustability of the teraflex 2.2 stabilizer over the attenuator. My Currie axles are setup for a lifted JK, so no need for drop brackets.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Randy
So it sounds like no regrets, you don't feel like 4.5" is too much and you would do it again. Nice to hear. What about drive shafts? Thanks.
 

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So it sounds like no regrets, you don't feel like 4.5" is too much and you would do it again. Nice to hear. What about drive shafts? Thanks.
No regrets at all and I no longer have to be concerned with the rear sagging. It does ride a little firmer when not loaded down, but not bad at all. I'm running Adam's front and rear shafts.

You will need a draglink flip, I went with Steersmart.

If you get the springs, make sure you get the revised fronts. If ordering direct from AEV, I'm positive you'll get the latest springs.

Let me know what you end up doing.

Take care.

Randy
 
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