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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My lever is very hard to move from 2 to 4 and back, Is this normal?
 

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I'm assuming you're referring to shifting into 4H? Are you in motion when shifting? It takes little effort, but I wouldn't call it very hard. I make sure I'm going straight, and 35mph or less, in gear. You can shift up to 55 mph going into 4H.


Going into 4L requires a little more thought, I found rolling slowly about 2-3mph in Neutral and shifting into it makes is a little easier.
 
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yup, going from 2hi to 4 hi you should be able to just pull it straight back, in gear, don't clutch it or anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To the 4H. Not easy to do at times


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4hi should be just a little tug.
 

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As everyone has stated, from 2 to 4H is very easy. While driving just an easy pull and it should go right in. 4H to 4L is where there is a little more work involved.

All 3 of mine are so easy a caveman can do it....
 

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Mine frequently refuses to go from 2-4H when stopped. A firm tug while moving usually works without issue, but not being able to put it in 4H from a stop is annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, I am an idiot!
I always have my foot in the brake. I always thought need to be stopped. Dis it while driving and it was a breeze!

Maybe I should read the manual.
LMAO


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Ok, I am an idiot!
I always have my foot in the brake. I always thought need to be stopped. Dis it while driving and it was a breeze!

Maybe I should read the manual.
LMAO


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ROFL... All good. Neither shift from 2 to 4H or from 4H to 4L is intended to be done while stopped. 4H to 4L requires a rolling speed, like 2MPH and a shift the transmission to neutral before pulling the transfer case lever. Can do it forward or backward.

If I'm on a flat surface, I just pop the transmission in gear to get rolling then back to neutral, shift the transfer case then put the transmission back in gear. If I'm on a slope, I just put the transmission in neutral and release the brake and when it starts moving, pop the transfer case in or out of 4L then put the transmission in gear and go. Takes a little practice, but once you feel what it takes, it becomes easy peazy lemon squeezy...
 
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ROFL... All good. Neither shift from 2 to 4H or from 4H to 4L is intended to be done while stopped. 4H to 4L requires a rolling speed, like 2MPH and a shift in to neutral before pulling the lever. Can do it forward or backward.

If I'm on a flat surface, I just pop it in gear to get rolling then neutral, shift the TC then back in gear. If I'm on a slope, I just put it in neutral and release the brake and when it starts moving, pop the TC in or out of 4L. Takes a little practice, but once you feel what it takes, it becomes easy peazy lemon squeezy...
Works every time. You might want to be a bit more specific though and let these guys know you're putting the trans in neutral and not the case. I can just see somebody rolling slightly while trying to hesitate in neutral of the case and then trying to engage it. It'll go but it won't go quietly that way.

I came from a time of 203 and 205 transfer cases. With newer technology it was hard to get used to not manhandling the shifter to get what you wanted.
 

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ROFL... All good. Neither shift from 2 to 4H or from 4H to 4L is intended to be done while stopped. 4H to 4L requires a rolling speed, like 2MPH and a shift in to neutral before pulling the lever. Can do it forward or backward.

If I'm on a flat surface, I just pop it in gear to get rolling then neutral, shift the TC then back in gear. If I'm on a slope, I just put it in neutral and release the brake and when it starts moving, pop the TC in or out of 4L. Takes a little practice, but once you feel what it takes, it becomes easy peazy lemon squeezy...

I never roll while going into 4L
Stop
Shift to neutral, foot on brake

Pull tcase lever back sternly but not hard
If it refuses to go bounce tranny to drive and back to neutral, try again. You may have to bounce a few times.


I find you always get a grind while moving. With the above method there is no grind.
 

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Works every time. You might want to be a bit more specific though and let these guys know you're putting the trans in neutral and not the case. I can just see somebody rolling slightly while trying to hesitate in neutral of the case and then trying to engage it. It'll go but it won't go quietly that way.

I came from a time of 203 and 205 transfer cases. With newer technology it was hard to get used to not manhandling the shifter to get what you wanted.
Agree, updated.
 

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I never roll while going into 4L
Stop
Shift to neutral, foot on brake

Pull tcase lever back sternly but not hard
If it refuses to go bounce tranny to drive and back to neutral, try again. You may have to bounce a few times.


I find you always get a grind while moving. With the above method there is no grind.
Since there are no synchronizers between the slider and the hi and lo cogs and both the slider and hi and lo cogs are rather square cut some slight movement makes things easier. When done correctly you may get a slight clunk as the gears bottom out but that's all. If you're getting a grind when using this method it's because you're rolling just a bit too fast or in the case of an auto trans you're not in neutral. Only slight movement is required and the trans must be in neutral and is slips right in quietly. Trying to shift sitting still with the brake locked nothing can mesh unless you just get lucky. Try it you'll like it.
 

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Since there are no synchronizers between the slider and the hi and lo cogs and both the slider and hi and lo cogs are rather square cut some slight movement makes things easier. When done correctly you may get a slight clunk as the gears bottom out but that's all. If you're getting a grind when using this method it's because you're rolling just a bit too fast or in the case of an auto trans you're not in neutral. Only slight movement is required and the trans must be in neutral and is slips right in quietly. Trying to shift sitting still with the brake locked nothing can mesh unless you just get lucky. Try it you'll like it.

Not true.
That's what bouncing the tranny from neutral to drive is about.... lining up the gears. I have never had to bounce more then 3 times to get an alignment.


There simply is no need to move while going to 4L
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
To be clear, 4H can be done moving. Normal speeds under think was 35mph.
4H to for 4L rolling, crawling , transmission in N, then shift 4L and back to D.




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To each their own.... This is directly from the owners manual.

4H to 4L or 4L to 4H
With the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift
an automatic transmission into NEUTRAL (N), or press
the clutch pedal on a manual transmission.

While the vehicle is coasting at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift the
transfer case lever firmly to the desired position. Do not
pause with the transfer case in N (Neutral).

Once the shift is completed, place the automatic transmission into
DRIVE or release the clutch pedal on a manual transmission.

NOTE: Shifting into or out of 4L is possible with the vehicle completely stopped; however, difficulty may occur due to the mating teeth not being properly aligned.

Several attempts may be required for clutch teeth alignment and shift completion to occur. The preferred method is with the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h). Avoid attempting to engage or disengage 4L with the vehicle moving faster than 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h).
 

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here's my .02 , I have a 2011 Sahara and my GF has a 2010 model. The 2011 was a hard pull to engage. The 2010 is way easier and feels just right. Both model years are the same. Not sure why this anomaly takes place but i'm curious to know why it is so.
 

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To each their own.... This is directly from the owners manual.

4H to 4L or 4L to 4H
With the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift
an automatic transmission into NEUTRAL (N), or press
the clutch pedal on a manual transmission.

While the vehicle is coasting at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift the
transfer case lever firmly to the desired position. Do not
pause with the transfer case in N (Neutral).

Once the shift is completed, place the automatic transmission into
DRIVE or release the clutch pedal on a manual transmission.

NOTE: Shifting into or out of 4L is possible with the vehicle completely stopped; however, difficulty may occur due to the mating teeth not being properly aligned.

Several attempts may be required for clutch teeth alignment and shift completion to occur. The preferred method is with the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h). Avoid attempting to engage or disengage 4L with the vehicle moving faster than 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h).

LOL!
Yes. I'm well aware of what the owners manual states. I also know it doesn't completely explain everything.... like how to mate the teeth while at a complete stop.


I'm sure you have seen this video before, although Dennis did grind the gears slightly in this video. He didn't allow the tcase to completely stop before shifting... but this is much the way I do it. There is really no need to move at all. It's just a matter of spinning the gears a bit till they line up.



 
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