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Slipping transmission need help!!

7360 Views 15 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  catcalls
A couple weeks ago I got code p0740 for my transmission which is something to do with the torque converter, mainly due to transmission being very hot. Today I was driving and it seemed to take off in 2 or 3 and on my way home it would just barely barely catch every now and then other than that I seemed to just be revving, but I limped it home. What could this issue be? I am assuming it is not a simple fix but more than likely will need to be replaced. Am I jumping to conclusions too fast?
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Transmission shops will usually give you a free diagnosis and estimate. But as soon as they open up the tranny, it starts costing money.

My guess is you need the tranny rebuilt.
What year is your Jeep so people will know which auto you have?
It is a 97 4.0 auto

I believe it is the 32rh
I let it set a while and it drove fine for half a block then the same thing happened. Got code 37 again.
I've read a lot about how it is normally bad for the transmission to get flushed or new fluid. Would this be the case in my situation? I don't want to mess something up that can be fixed but it almost seems like it's worth a shot right now. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
Have you checked your tranny fluid level and the condition of the fluid? If it is low, you can add more...but if it is low, then ya know it still has issues.

Chances are the internal fibers are toast as they are wear items (don't last forever). Probably needs a rebuild kit with a new torque converter.
Is the 32rh something I can rebuild myself at home or would you suggest bringing it somewhere? What kind of price would I be looking at if I were to have this work done at a shop?
I've read a lot about how it is normally bad for the transmission to get flushed or new fluid. Would this be the case in my situation? I don't want to mess something up that can be fixed but it almost seems like it's worth a shot right now. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
That's an old myth. Anything that goes wrong when doing a flush was going to happen anyway. Your 32rh tranny has bands in it that can be adjusted. Have you ever done it? Those transmissions are easy to work on and inexpensive (compared to the 42rle) to rebuild or replace.

One band to adjust is under the filter. That is rear band. And there is a forward band on the driver side on outside of trans.
Dont assume the nomenclature means one way or another. Both must be adjusted correctly for the trans to shift right as certain gears use the rear band to lock the main drum or something like that. I know both need adjusting.

MUST get a inch pound torque wrench. If you going to do it I will post the correct way. There is a couple of guys that do transmissions on here and they normally drop the adjustment post on here. Be mindful that the instructions included will have different values for each band.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/adjusting-bands-3-speed-auto-trans-486256/#post4451301
From the FSM:

FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT

The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 179).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and 5/16 socket.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-1/2 turns
for the 30RH and 2-1/4 turns for the 32RH.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.

REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 5 N·m (41 in. lbs.)
for the 30RH and 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.) torque for the
32RH (Fig. 181).

(5) Back off adjusting screw 7 turns for the 30RH
and 4 turns for the 32RH.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopart ATF Plus 3, Type 7176, fluid.

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For future reference, most manuals call for the fluid and filter to be changed in an automatic transmission somewhere between 25K and 50K miles on the older transmissions. On my 2015 the book calls for fluid and filter at 60K in heavy usage or 120K in normal usage.

But, like oil changes (book calls for a max of 10K on the 2015) more frequent is better.
I called a transmission shop and they said that the bands were for 2nd gear and reverse. That it wouldn't really cause this issue.
But if the fibers are gone on the bands, tightening them won't do much. How many miles do you have on the tranny?
This would be a good article to read to get to know your tranny better:

Jeep TorqueFlite Transmission Rebuild - 4 Wheel Drive & Sport Utility Magazine
Now I know nothing about how an automatic works, how the flywheel works or really how any of it works, but I know that there is an issue with my flywheel according to the codes I have gotten. One thing I read said that letting the jeep idle in neutral for a minute would allow the transmission fluid flow back into the torque converter and the issue would be resolved for a day or two maybe.
Not flywheel torque converter
I tried the neutral thing and it did not work, and when I checked the fluid it almost looked like there was too much, I don't know what this means or anything. I don't know if this is just something simple and there is a little trick I can do to fix it, and by flushing it I would mess something up or if I should flush it because I'm at the point where there isn't anything to lose from doing it... Any help would be awesome please!!
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