Spec's would also help narrow it down like year motor and does it have a lift if so are ur tires to big for ur motor and gear output? How are ur shocks? Do u have a sterring stabilizer sutiable for ur lift?
Remove track bars in the front and rear end, and lower your air pressure in your tires a little bit. Use a piece of chalk to test for the correct pressure. Draw a line across your treads and drive a few feet. If the line is worn in the center they're over inflated; worn on the edges means they're under inflated; worn evenly across the treads means you're at the ideal pressure.
Air down the tires is going to be the easiest thing to do that makes the biggest difference. While the "chalk test" is a common approach you can just air them down to 25-28 lbs and see how you like the ride and the handling and go from there. Keep an eye on tire wear and adjust from there. The chalk deal is often miss used and doesn't take speed into consideration
Yup air pressure between 25-28 made the biggest difference for me. I run at 26 now and it's perfect. I recently removed just the rear track bar and that also helped but not as much as the tire pressure at 26lbs.
I take it you did not install the lift yourself. I would back off the spring mounting hardware and re-torque to spec after cycling the suspension a few times. Many a lift has been maligned as too stiff because the installer tightened the hardware without it being on the ground. Get the air pressure down as others have said.
Mine handles and rides worse when the sway bar is disconnected. I get drag link roll so it drives itself all over the road. Dropping the tire pressure doesn't help me too much, it's rough regardless.
The best solution for me was more weight in the back. When I have a bike rack full of bikes in the trailer hitch or a cargo carrier full of tools for the junkyard, the back end doesn't jump when I hit bumps.
About 95% of people chuckle a bit when they see posts like this, because it's an ongoing struggle everyone has but few have figured out. It's something you eventually get used to, but I had some hope at first.
The rough ride is a combination of the light weight, high ride height, solid axles, leaf spring suspension, aggressive tires, and overall lack of aerodynamics. Those are all things that are difficult to fix, or would hinder "performance."
For me the best thing was a good set of Gas Shocks, not some big heavy duty things just a good set, for what every height your rig is over stock, 2.5', 3.0', 4.0' etc.. Not Heavy Duty, unless your going to be making, In Air Jumps!
One thing to remember is that we are riding on World War II technology that was designed for combat operations, not civilian comfort.
Airslot mentions retorquing the spring main eye and shackle bolts with the full weight of the Jeep on the ground. That along with good shocks and tire pressure are about all that I recommend.
My factory springs were so flat that the slightest bump would make my front axle hit the snubbers. New springs from General Spring in Kansas City cured that.
Jeep still rides like a buckboard. I just got used to it.
Id like to see a picture of the springs and shackles of OPs suspension. I've been noticing the cheaper lifts scrimp on steel and use shorter springs. It will cause the shackle to be straight up. That orientation translates shocks straight up first before elongating the spring as the shackle is not over center already. If the shackles are already at an angle, they ride much softer as the spring can elongate and absorb the movement.
Mine. Rides like a Cadillac compare to my buddy's cheap ass lift
His rears point forward and the fronts are almost straight up. Rides horrible.
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