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Discussion Starter #1
DISCLAIMER:
I'll start with the standard disclaimer: I don't work for Jeep, FCA, any dealership, whatever. I'm not receiving any compensation, and have no affiliation with anyone involved. I'm just excited about the deal I got on my Jeep, that is available to any member of this site, and want to spread the word about the service received. They say a happy customer will tell 10 people about their experience, while an angry customer will tell 100. I'm doing my best to be the happy customer that tells 10,000 people, and hopefully save you all a good chunk of change on your purchase.


ON CREDIT:
I'll be honest and say I'm no credit expert up front. My best advice from my own experience is to try and keep your credit score at the highest point possible. If that means waiting, then by all means wait and pay off debts, build good credit history, fix your score and trend it upward. Your score is extremely important when it comes to a lender making a decision on whether to lend you money, and at what rate. Generally, the higher the score, the more likely you are to get a loan, and the better the rate you'll receive. You can get a free credit report once per year from all three major credit bureaus at the only recognized authority : AnnualCreditReport.com. While you’re looking at your credit reports, you can also open disputes and corrections for any information that’s not right. I’ve removed my own name misspelling from all three of my reports every year, but they keep coming back. I’ve never gone by “Eric”, it’s always been the strong Norse spelling “Erik”. These little details do matter in your credit report, just not as much as big details like bad addresses, false accounts, and so on. Get these things fixed and watch your credit score climb!


THE DEAL:
First step in this process is to decide what you want, and put together a build sheet.
Start with the trim line - Sport, Sahara, Rubicon, or one of the special editions. We won’t get into the pros/cons of trim lines here, ask around if you want to know what’s best for you.
Next, add your options. From experience here, the only option you can't add after the build sheet is put in is side-mounted torso air bags. There are some options (tow package, for instance), which can be had cheaper via aftermarket, unless your tow package also includes a better gearing ratio. Feel free to ask questions here or elsewhere in this sub-forum regarding options building.
Your final step in the build sheet process is to find the INVOICE price. I personally use Navy Federal Credit Union's auto buying service website, but there are others out there that give you MSRP and Invoice pricing of the Jeep of your dreams as-built. Rubicon trim and up are eligible for 4% UNDER invoicing price, and lesser trim levels 6% UNDER invoice pricing, via group deals offered by dealerships around the country. A number of those dealers are sponsoring vendors on this forum, and can be found in the aptly named “Vendor Spotlight Forum”.


THE DISCOUNTS:
TrueCar – Sign up for free on truecar.com, spec out your dream Jeep and give them a real email address, preferably one you just created for this purpose and this purpose alone. You'll get contacted (some would say spammed) by dealers with “similar” vehicles in your area. If they don't offer you the best deal, wait 2-4 weeks and you should (75% certainty) get a $500-1,000 "Prospective Buyer" coupon. This coupon is payable by TrueCar to your dealership, and takes nothing off their bottom line. If the dealer won't accept this coupon, you shouldn't be doing business with them.
BonusDrive - Highly variable depending on how you finance, bonusdrive.com will reward you with a check for $500 in the mail some weeks after your purchase, assuming you choose to use a lending service they partner with. If you're going to finance with one of their partners anyway, there's an extra $500 back in your pocket after the purchase!
Military Service – If you are active duty / active reserve, or a veteran with an honorable discharge of any sort (including medical) on your DD-214, you may qualify for $500 off the gross price of your new Jeep. DD-214 is required for this, as it is NOT legal for your mil ID to be photocopied for any reason. The official line on this, per Jeep:
If you're Active, Active Reserved, Retired Military, Retired Military Reserve or are an honorably discharged veteran within 12 months of discharged date, you're eligible for up to $500 in Military bonus cash under Jeep's Military Incentive program.
Golden Ticket - Sign up on Jeep.com asking for brochures, it may take up to a month or more, and there's likely only a 25-50% chance of getting the $500 off coupon from Jeep. This, just like TrueCar, is payable to the dealership by an outside authority. They lose nothing by honoring this coupon, as FCA pays them back. Even if you haven’t received the coupon physically, the dealership has their own way of confirming whether you’ve been tagged as eligible for it.
AAA/etc... - There are a couple organizations where membership nets you $200 off the price of your Jeep. Easiest one is AAA - get a 1 year bottom tier plan if you don't already have it, and presenting the card when it's time for the sales contract to be signed will take that $200 off. Note: this may not stack with other offers, so don’t count on it unless you’ve confirmed with the dealership, in writing.
Sometimes, Jeep runs a special rebate for current Jeep owners, or FCA may run one for "competitive vehicle owners" - doesn't happen often, but it can be worth some cash off the price. Your mileage may vary wildly, and there’s a 75% chance the rebate excludes Wrangler and Wrangler Unlimited models.
Financing discount - I'd tend to stay away from this one, not because of who the financing is with (since that varies month-to-month), but because it takes cash out of the commission payment. That said, Mr/Mrs. Tightwad, you might be able to negotiate part of the finance holdback off the price. Go ahead, we won't judge you.


THE TRADE-IN:
You're more likely to get a better deal selling your vehicle outright than you would on the trade-in from ANY dealer. They have to turn the vehicle and make a profit. That said, have a number in mind, and when you call or text the dealer, let them know you've got a vehicle for trade-in, and you want to compare their offer vs. what you can get selling privately. If the dealership is interested in your vehicle, they'll ask for detailed pictures, and will likely be able to work out a solid number for you over email/phone with agreement on total miles by the time it gets to them. Let's say you have to drive it 1,000 miles to them, they'll ask for odometer now, and give you an offer contigent on no more than 1,200 more miles than it has at the moment. and no further damages than pictured. The big reason you may consider this is if your state taxes are affected by the difference between trade-in and new vehicle value.


FINANCING:
This is the tough one. Not bragging, but I have excellent credit, and went through my credit union for a loan. I filled my paperwork honestly, and let them know that I would have a cash down payment of 10% to cover the new car gap, so I got an excellent rate. IF you want to have the dealership try doing the financing through their lender, they stand to recoup what they call "trunk cash" or, more professionally, buyer financing holdback. You can TRY to negotiate part of the trunk cash into the purchase price, but remember that this is where the sales drones make their commission. Every dollar the salesperson uses from this to take off your purchase price, is a dollar out of their pocket.
-Subtopic: The GAP - It was brought to my attention that I didn't include the gap in my initial postings. GAP is the difference between the street value of your vehicle and what you owe on it. If you're financing 100% of the vehicle or bringing negative equity from a previous vehicle into the deal, your lender may charge you a fixed amount (usually $199-$399) for "gap insurance" to cover that difference should your vehicle be totaled before you get the value equation in your favor. The deals I've been talking about here _should_ be enough to cover that gap if you're not rolling in negative equity, but may not be quite enough to satisfy your lender.
Ex: I purchased a 2016 Rubicon 2-door, loaded, MSRP of $41,165. Thanks to the deals and discounts stack, my out the door price was $37,450. If I financed this amount, the lender might have wanted gap insurance to cover the difference between $37,450 and what my car insurance company would pay out were I to total the Jeep. I avoided this altogether by putting a good amount of cash in as a down payment, and avoided the gap insurance fee.


THE TAXES:
A five-minute research session with the Google machine will tell you based on what state and county/parish, maybe even city/township you live in, what your tax rates on a new vehicle will be. These taxes and fees are applied based on the NET price of the vehicle, and added to the GROSS price at the end. NET price of the vehicle may be affected by your trade-in value, depending on the way taxes are calculated for your state.


OUTRO:
I threw this together last year because I've posted up some/most of this info in a bunch of different threads and every day I see new ones on "About to pull the trigger on this $41k MSRP Sport S" and such threads pop up. Trying to save the community a buck, here, hope that it's appreciated. Rewritten 4-May-2017 to reflect changes in discounts and updating some additional info.

Next post is the pricing breakdown (2 of 3), final post will be a sample letter to send to dealerships and a smattering of advice.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
PRICING:

STEP 1: Take the INVOICE price from your build sheet. I'll stress that again - the INVOICE price, not the MSRP, but the INVOICE.

STEP 2: Got that number? Great. If you're purchasing a Rubicon or higher trim line, Congratulations, subtract 4 percent. If you're buying a lower trim line, kudos, you can subtract 6 percent. You now have your NET vehicle purchase price (NET Contract) - you'll need to keep this number for when you do a tax calculation, so keep it in mind.

STEP 3: Find out what your chosen dealership charges as a documentation fee. This varies wildly, with some states regulating a statutory maximum, others allowing any amount to be added. Add the documentation fee to your NET price.
Don't complain about this, your documentation fees cover little things like the building they work in, the lot they own, the people they have to pay on non-commission salary, blah blah blah. All the stuff that isn't a salesperson making commission - that's what the doc fee covers, so suck it up, buttercup. Moving right along...

STEP 4: Take a look at the discounts above. You're probably thinking to yourself "But I don't WANT to wait a month, I want my Jeep NOW!". Cool your jets, there, sparky. That one-month wait stands to net you $1500 back in your pocket. If you're financing, long term it nets even more because that $1500 would have also been included in your loan, and thus had interest tacked on. I know it's tough, but you can do it. Determine what discounts you qualify for, add those numbers together, and you've got your DISCOUNT value. You're in the home stretch, don't give up on me now!

STEP 5 (OPTIONAL): TRADE-IN. As I've said before, you're more likely to get a better deal selling your vehicle locally. I hate playing the trade-in game because dealerships will typically offer you the "Fair" condition NADA black-book value of your vehicle.
An example, I sold a 2003 Audi RS6 in Excellent condition. The street value is around $22,500. KBB private party is around $17,700 depending on zip code. The NADA trade-in in Fair condition is $8,800. Get what I'm talking about? Standard rate is about half of the immediate private sale value. I don't begrudge dealerships trying to make money, but this is an area where they could probably do better. Anywho, if you've got a trade-in, get your contigent offer in writing, and you'll need this for your next step.

STEP 6: TAXES: A little more complicated, because where you live affects this one. Five minutes on Google will tell you how much (percentage and flat cost fees) you're going to have to pay for the privilege of owning a vehicle. I'll break this down into some sub-steps for you here:

-----STEP 6a) Tags and Title - This is LESS complicated than the next step, so we'll cover it first. Based on where you live, your Department of Motor Vehicles, or whatever they call themselves, likely charges a flat fee for stamping a license plate and shipping it to you, as well as printing up an official title of some sort. This varies wildly based on where you live, and like I said - Google is your friend. Try something like "New car taxes wherever_you_live" where you replace that wherever_you_live part with the State and County (or Parish, for you Louisiana peoples), sometimes even the City that you live in. This should also get you the next number you need.

-----STEP 6b) Taxes - It sucks, but we all have to pay them (well, not all) - Taxes vary even more wildly, with folks in Delaware paying ZERO on the purchase, and others paying upwards of TWELVE PERCENT of their vehicle net cost in taxes. Most of those states with the high initial tax are at least kind enough not to hose you on property taxes year-over-year, unlike Virginia, where we pay the tax every year. But I digress. Figure out from the Google search I had you do in step 6a what your tax rate will be. Got that? Now Multiply the Tax Rate by the NET Contract price from Step 2.
As an example, if my net contract was $35,000 and my state charges 6% on a new vehicle purchase, the calculation would be $35,000*0.06 = $2,100.00 in taxes.

Special Note: Some states only charge taxes on the DIFFERENCE between the vehicle you trade in, and the new vehicle you purchase. This can make a pretty big difference in the Tax you owe. I'm not the expert, this isn't an end-all guide to the costs, so do your research. I am neither a lawyer nor a tax consultant.


STEP 7: The final frontier - Add your numbers together!
NET Contract from Step 2
PLUS Document Fee from Step 3
PLUS Tax/tags/title from Step 6a and 6b
MINUS the DISCOUNT value from Step 4
MINUS the trade-in value from Step 5.
And now you've got your "Out-The-Door" contract price.

To be continued in the third post in this series with a template dealer letter and some small bits of advice that just didn’t fit anywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SAMPLE LETTER
Drop a copy of this, with your information filling the parentheses, to the email addresses of the sales managers at as many local dealerships as you're willing to drive to. Note the Asterisks at the end - these are just suggestions.
_____________________________
Good (morning/afternoon/evening),

I am in the market for a new Jeep Wrangler (Unlimited?) with the following options:
((List your options, bulleted))

I am well aware of the pricing structure currently offered, and am strictly putting this out to find who can give me the best offer - note that you are BCC'ed on this email, as are the sales managers at other dealerships in the area.

As a baseline, Wranglers below the Rubicon trim level are being offered at six percent below invoice pricing by a number of dealerships around the country, who also offer Rubicon and above trim levels at four percent below invoice pricing.

The invoice price for the configuration I'm seeking is: $XX,XXX. Therefore, the baseline price to beat is $YY,YYY.

I (have/have not) secured my financing at this time, and my timeframe for purchase is within the next (X months or weeks), with up to 10 weeks for a factory order to be delivered.

I (do/do not) have a vehicle to trade in. (If you do, give a detailed description and expected value, as well as comparison to Nada black book value here)

Looking forward to hearing from you,
(Yournamegoeshere)
**Get a throwaway google voice number and put it here, forward it to your cell phone. You get a call on it, let them talk, then let them know that any potential deal has to be in writing before you'll consider visiting their lot.
______________________
END SAMPLE LETTER

SOME ADVICE
Build in from factory anything you think you’ll want that’s offered. Factory options help resale value and are covered under warranty for some time period. Two exceptions to this are the Tow Package and recovery gear bag. Unless you’re getting a base sport, and the tow package adds the 3.73 gearing, it’s overpriced by a long shot. All that it adds is a hitch and wiring, which can be purchased aftermarket for $159 or less for the package and installed in less than 2 hours. The recovery gear bag is offered aftermarket cheaper, just without the "JEEP" logo.
If you opt not to get a hard top and reuse an old one or buy off Craigslist, you’ll also need to add in the cost of the wiring kit ($249ish), and a couple hours to install the kit.
If you feel like the dealer is trying to play you, you should trust that gut instinct. There are plenty of reputable dealerships out there, but there are a ton of scumbags, too.

LEASING vs. BUYING: There’s always some talk about whether to take this awesome low monthly payment lease somewhere on the board. Let me tell you something to be taken as gospel.
Leasing a Wrangler is tantamount to throwing money in the toilet.
The depreciation curve on the Wrangler is so slow, you end up paying way more over the course of the lease and buyout than you would have to buy it. Plus you don’t get to mod it and make it your own.
Leases are great for vehicles with a steep depreciation curve. Grand Cherokee leasing makes sense, since they lose ~1/3 of their value in the first month and another high percentage every year.
On the Wrangler, you can expect to depreciate ~$2k per year until it hits half of its original value. From there, it may go up or down $1k, but generally stays in that spot until it hits 20 years old. Nothing else comes close, unless you’re dropping serious coin on a hypercar / super-collectible.

CONCLUSION:
Okay, there’s my spiel. Thanks for reading 3 very wordy posts! I hope you’ve found something to help you in the purchase process! If you have any questions, feel free to post up. Just remember, this is not the thread to talk about individual dealerships, even if you got a great deal from them. We’re not steering business to any given spot, except the Vendor Spotlight Forum. The aim here is saving potential buyers a couple thousand dollars over walking into random dealer X and buying something off the lot that doesn’t meet their needs, just because it’s there, and shiney, and new.


Yours in Jeep,
Other_Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
4th post in this series reserved for further commentary and etc. Anything you see here supplements the above 3 posts.

O_E

//Edit 1-Jun-17\\
Awaiting mod ruling re: whether we can list the dealers/contacts where we've been able to pull the under-invoice group buy pricing levels.
\\Edit 1-Jun-17//
 

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If I build a jku from the jeep website is that what I should expect to pay exactly from the dealership? Recon is 43k base but came to 52k w/ options added. I wonder is there wiggle room in that 9k or will I actually pay more than the 52k because of the dealership markup on top?
 

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@219 the jeep site is what I used just to get an idea.. but typically when you explore the jeep site and then do a search inventory.. 9 out of 10 the prices of these jeeps on the dealership's lot are higher.

In our case and because we built a jeep on jeep's site and took a print out of the order with us as to have the dealership order the jeep, Jeep's build and price came to 30K. but after the dealership offered insensitive etc.. we're looking in the 26k range, not to mention we'll have a lump sum of cash (fingers crossed) when we sign which should bring the price down even lower.

Just be prepared to haggle. Be firm and if you really have to, get up and walk away.. Believe me when you flash money, it will talk more so than saying "we want to finance"

Edit:

Just wanted to point out something I noticed on a linked dealers site from Jeep's build page. I was searching for our jeep with just those options we wanted. I thought I found one. But when I clicked the link which took me to a dealer site.. that dealership added items to the wrangler themselves..

What I thought was going to be about 30k, ended up being nearly 54K because the dealership added the total off road package. In my opinion.. This is false advertisement.

Jeep's Build & Price site is going to be off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If I build a jku from the jeep website is that what I should expect to pay exactly from the dealership? Recon is 43k base but came to 52k w/ options added. I wonder is there wiggle room in that 9k or will I actually pay more than the 52k because of the dealership markup on top?
Without knowing the exact options you selected for that 52k MSRP, it's hard for me to tell you the Invoice.

I just went on navyfederalautobuying.com and chucked together some options on a 24Z package to come out to 51945 MSRP, and the Invoice is 48667. Based on that, I'd say you should expect your net contract to be around 46,720. Sorry but I can't get any more specific without knowing the options you're looking at.

O_E
 

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Without knowing the exact options you selected for that 52k MSRP, it's hard for me to tell you the Invoice.

I just went on navyfederalautobuying.com and chucked together some options on a 24Z package to come out to 51945 MSRP, and the Invoice is 48667. Based on that, I'd say you should expect your net contract to be around 46,720. Sorry but I can't get any more specific without knowing the options you're looking at.

O_E
Oh thanks O_E you didnt have to do that but thanks!

From my build page quote from jeep.com:

2017 Recon

ADD:

AT
4.10
Hard Top Headliner
Body color fenders
Swing gate reinforcement
430n
side air bags
Alpine

Net Price: 52150

so you were very close


....I did find two in my area this morning with all those options except the swing gate reinforcement. They have them listed at 49,255. One White One Gobi (wish they made mojave sand still)... Im partial to GCM so I think I still may order and wait the month.

Thanks for the help

-Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh thanks O_E you didnt have to do that but thanks!

From my build page quote from jeep.com:

2017 Recon

ADD:

AT
4.10
Hard Top Headliner
Body color fenders
Swing gate reinforcement
430n
side air bags
Alpine

Net Price: 52150

so you were very close


....I did find two in my area this morning with all those options except the swing gate reinforcement. They have them listed at 49,255. One White One Gobi (wish they made mojave sand still)... Im partial to GCM so I think I still may order and wait the month.

Thanks for the help

-Ed
Ed - Here's your build sheet info.

Option --- Invoice --- MSRP
Base Build -- 35639 -- 37445
Destination -- 1095 -- 1095
24Z (Recon Auto) -- 4895 -- 5500
Auto Trans -- 1246 -- 1400
Color Top -- 1420 -- 1595
Color Fenders -- 352 -- 395
4.10 Diff -- 619 -- 695
Swing Gate -- 797 -- 895
430N -- 1064 -- 1195
Alpine -- 841 -- 945
Air Bags -- 441 -- 495
Headliner -- 441 -- 495
Total: -- $48,850 -- $52,150

Invoice minus 4 percent = $46,896

That should be your starting point in negotiations.

Best,
O_E
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Double posting. WF is taking a beating today, it seems...
 

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Again Just wanted to thank @Other_Erik for his diligent work on this write up. Although we couldn't follow it to a "T" we did the best we could with what we had and could afford.

Here are the final totals:

The order went in 16 days ago.. we took delivery of the jeep after I inspected. No paint flaws or other issues that I could tell. If one was to built this model with our options. It would cost 32K and some change. Once the jeep was prepped by our dealership, They took $2,500 right off the top. Dealership loyalty I would suspect. Even threw in the slush mats. We ended up financing 23K for 60 months. The faster one gets this paid off the faster we'll be able to put a decal on it saying: "Don't Laugh, It's Paid For"

But one of the most important things that helped us get into this jeep, was money.. and money talks more so if you went into the dealerships and said "we want to finance".. Granted we still ended up financing part of the jeep.. But putting 9K down helped us and cut out a lot of red tape and time.

it was our intention to order what we want instead of taking any jeep off the lot.. This means we get what we want at the price we want to pay. Total time at the dealership 40 mins.. singed, seals and delivered.

Do yourself a favor, if your going to finance.. listing to what @Other_Erik is telling you. If you decide to walk in with cash like we did, be prepared for a shock.. No just one salesman will wait on you, all of them will. At that point, they hated for us to leave.. But I told them we'll be back and when we do, they'll all get to see the top down and doors off.

With that jeep on their lot, one would have thought a space ship had landed.. everyone wanted to see the halfie..But they never really got the chance.. in and out in less than 40 mins.

So what did we do on this rainy day after getting the jeep?.. well we drove to PA for some Ice cream then came home.
 

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Edit - Oddly, the next post doesn't seem to have tagging. Weird.
@Old Dogger - just testing, are you seeing a tag here, any idea why the mass-tagging in next post doesn't function?

Yes, I see it in Post #4, but not #5. My guess would be that the issue is the quantity.

WF Site Help & Support - Jeep Wrangler Forum

^^^You may want to ask that question in this Link.
 

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Going to disagree about the pros and cons of leasing. Plug a high residual value factor into a lease calculator and you will get a lower payment. not to mention additional tax write off for business owners. True that most mods are off limits. Close to zero down, a much lower payment and in 3 yeas get another new Jeep
 

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Did not see mention of the Affiliate Program. "Affiliate Rewards Program Preferred Price (1% below factory invoice)"

I have it through my work, but it is also available to any Tread Lightly members, with the $100 level membership. https://www.treadlightly.org/join/fcusa-affiliates-reward-program/

I will be honest in that I don't know for sure how the program works though, because I don't think my dealer did it right. My Jeep was what they call an advertiser, meant to bring people in, so it was already priced damn low. Then I talked the dealer into $500 less, and then he gave me the military $500 off and then they gave the 1% off that final figure. I ended up about 9-10% below invoice.

/edit: So I just did some more research and apparently the trick I read from others is to work your best deal, and THEN tell them you have the Affiliate Program to get the 1% off the Dealer Invoice money. So then the way my dealer did it cost me a bit of money, because he did 1% off the price we came up with. I am sure that was no accident on his part. :( I guess moral of the story is don't let that happen to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did not see mention of the Affiliate Program. "Affiliate Rewards Program Preferred Price (1% below factory invoice)"

I have it through my work, but it is also available to any Tread Lightly members, with the $100 level membership. https://www.treadlightly.org/join/fcusa-affiliates-reward-program/

I will be honest in that I don't know for sure how the program works though, because I don't think my dealer did it right. My Jeep was what they call an advertiser, meant to bring people in, so it was already priced damn low. Then I talked the dealer into $500 less, and then he gave me the military $500 off and then they gave the 1% off that final figure. I ended up about 9-10% below invoice.

/edit: So I just did some more research and apparently the trick I read from others is to work your best deal, and THEN tell them you have the Affiliate Program to get the 1% off the Dealer Invoice money. So then the way my dealer did it cost me a bit of money, because he did 1% off the price we came up with. I am sure that was no accident on his part. :( I guess moral of the story is don't let that happen to you.
@Maddening - So the Affiliate program nets Invoice minus 1 percent, where the group buy nets you Invoice minus 4 or 6 percent pricing. That's why I didn't plug it.

O_E
 

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@Maddening - So the Affiliate program nets Invoice minus 1 percent, where the group buy nets you Invoice minus 4 or 6 percent pricing. That's why I didn't plug it.

O_E
Sorry to waste your time then, I was under the assumption it stacked since that is what my dealer did for me. But as I said, he did it wrong to start with. He didn't have to give any Affiliate discount at all since I was using the other discounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sorry to waste your time then, I was under the assumption it stacked since that is what my dealer did for me. But as I said, he did it wrong to start with. He didn't have to give any Affiliate discount at all since I was using the other discounts.
Not a waste at all. Glad you were able to get the deal you got (I think you said 9% under invoice? Nice!). Thanks for the input!

O_E
 

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Something around that, can't remember exact, 9.4% or in there. They were having a really hard time getting rid of the Hypergreen I guess, dealer threw everything he could at me to take it.
 
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