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The front is the major concern since you want your caster angle right. But all you have to do is use the existing spring perches as a reference. Get them exactly parallel so the axle is sitting exactly the same with springs over or under. Measure for shocks and get the right length.

Since the rear doesn't have caster/camber/toe in, you can pretty much do what you want as long as long as you keep the axle centered under the Jeep. Most people will key off the factory perches for centering but rotate the axle so the pinion is pointing more or less right at the t-case. You may need to relocate the shock mounts but that's just a little grinding and welding. A traction bar is a good idea since you'll get a lot more spring wrap with SOA. Just weld a couple brackets to the axle, build the bar with a couple heim joints, throw a shackle on the other end and put the frame mount close to where the front of the spring goes to prevent binding and you're good.

You'll have to deal with extended brake lines, longer driveshafts, and make sure you have a fixed yoke with a CV shaft in the rear. But that's pretty much all of the major stuff.
 

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^^^agreed with pretty much all of it but the shackle on the traction bar and the need for a CV shaft.
You really do need some way to prevent suspension binding and a shackle does that. Pretty much every traction bar I've ever seen has either a shackle or it is itself a slip shaft.

And doing 6 inches or more of lift on a YJ without a CV shaft is asking for trouble with vibration. Even if you do a t-case drop you're still looking at a significant driveshaft angle.
 

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Ive done bars that way for 15 years and never had a failure and it has enough suspension travel to stuff the tires into the tub. A fixed yoke and 2 joint shaft will fix any angle and way stronger/cheaper.

Not that the standard cake mix recipe for SOA wont work.
 
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